Chain-L is amazing. Your drive train will be absolutely filthy after a
little while. But it will be quiet for 500 miles.
On Monday, April 14, 2014 11:46:44 AM UTC-4, JimD wrote:
This stuff works great but no way will it stay 'clean'.
http://chain-l.com/index.html
-Jim
On Apr 14, 2014,
My chain deserved a nice cleaning after 700 or so Chain-L miles.
It took an hour, and the chain was so disgusting that getting the link off was
a serious challenge. It was thoroughly crudded up.
But there was no noise for about 600 miles, so...
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I miss my Trek 560. It was a racey bike that could be outfitted with
fenders, bags, etc. Mine was a 57 and handled a bar bag just fine.
On Thursday, April 17, 2014 2:15:03 PM UTC-4, Anton Tutter wrote:
Well, my lightest tubed bike thus far is my Rawland Stag, at 8/5/8
standard diameter.
Disagree. RX100 long reach DPs were around then, and those are still some of
my favorite brakes. If you wanted longer, you dropped to BMX quality, but
Tektro's superlongs were available by 2003.
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Life's too short to ride a crummy bike.
On Wednesday, June 4, 2014 2:03:29 PM UTC-4, Lynne Fitz wrote:
Back in 2007, I bought a Bleriot frame, had SS couplers installed, and
built it up. My gruppo is the shiny silver Shimano compatible set. It
looked very nice and shiny, and was meant to
Ah, but chain cleaning (like tube patching and net mending) is a satisfying
art!
I wipe off the chain, then mix hot water with Dawn and Simple Green in a
plastic container, toss in the chain, agitate the h_ll out of it, then pour
off the liquid, wipe the chain, and rinse a couple more times.
When I first installed fenders on my Model D, I had to deal with horizontal
dropouts, and didn't. I just let the bolt pull the steel fender forward.
Later, to clean things up, I used a long bolt, but drilled, cut, and sliced a
rubber cork (the type chemists use in flasks) for a snug fit over
Mid-80's Treks are, IMHO, some of the *best* bikes ever made. I've owned a
620, a 560, and a 400, all from that period, and I built up a 560 for my
son before my own (his was a 49cm and his first decent bike; it inspired me
to get one for myself. Mine was a 57 (approx measures in both cases).
Other than weight, is there a disadvantage to hi-ten? I thought the point to
using any given sterl was to (essentially) keep the frame strong enough while
reducing weight.
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you can compare the tensiles of various alloys.
On Thu, Jun 12, 2014 at 5:11 AM, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
marchan...@gmail.com javascript: wrote:
Other than weight, is there a disadvantage to hi-ten? I thought the
point to using any given sterl was to (essentially) keep the frame strong
A man after my own heart--bag improvements! I finally decided saddlebags
didn't work for me, but I am always in pursuit of the ultimate handlebar
bag! See
http://lawschoolissoover.wordpress.com/2012/11/14/building-a-near-perfect-beast-hacking-the-real-world/
On Wednesday, June 18, 2014
When I had a Campagne bag, I found that outfitting it with coroplast
stiffeners made a huge difference, and I was using a decaleur. A 1-part
stiffener made of appropriately folded coroplast (fold along the channels
to create a front, bottom, and back) works well.
On Saturday, June 21, 2014
Do they have to be genuine TA? I just picked up a set of Sugino PX with
lots of TA rings from another iBOB. You might look at those as an
alternative...
In any event, I have a bunch of extra rings, so email me if you can only
find arms. I may have what you need.
On Friday, June 27, 2014
It can work, though I don't know anything about those particular shoes. After
I completed my first century in New Balance tennis shoes (at the time, I had
drunk the rib Kool-Aid about foot retention), the pain drove me to try some
Specialized Fat Boys (aka clown shoes) and they worked pretty
Items and prices here: Details and prices are in the comments on the photos.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/am-s/sets/72157645040886600/
Brakes, cranks, stem, shifters...it's all here, and it's all dirty.
The details: WYSIWYG. It's dirty? That's how you get it. Buyer pays
shipping, so if
, 2014 8:00:44 PM UTC-7, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro wrote:
Items and prices here: Details and prices are in the comments on the
photos.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/am-s/sets/72157645040886600/
Brakes, cranks, stem, shifters...it's all here, and it's all dirty.
The details: WYSIWYG. It's dirty
You're most welcome. There are more interfaces on the web than you can
shake a stick at!
On Tuesday, July 1, 2014 7:16:30 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
Ah, got it. I don't think I scrolled down before. Thanks!
JB
On Tuesday, July 1, 2014 3:54:20 AM UTC-7, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro wrote
These are the very last additions to the Dirty Garage Sale--Brooks Swallow
and VO Swallow-Copy saddles, PB computer, and yet another Suntour front
derailer--do they follow me home or what? And for those who've gone
threadless, a steerer cutting guide.
Check out the photos and prices here:
I shift 9/friction with a Shimano 600 lever--the last of the true friction-only
DT levers. It's so nice that I have considered friction 10...but not just yet.
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It shouldn't be all *that *hard to create a small L-shaped fitting that
screws to the lower eyelets and provides upper eyelets *and* replacement
lowers. It would take about 1.5 sq inches of sheet metal, max, a saw, and
a drill. You could also make it out of aluminum and thread it it. Lots of
KNOW THYSELF. If you need help, call the FBI.
Seriously, it's going to vary from person to person. Some people have
active pancreases (pancreai?) and so get an insulin flush from sugary
foods. Some of us don't. Some people have cast-iron (steel is real!)
stomachs, and some don't.
On
If you're in the New Haven area, Devil's Gear stocks frame pumps.
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I currently have a Shimano dynohub and an Edelux 1.
My Edelux is rack mounted, but there are lots of brackets out there to allow
fork mounting, fender mounting, etc. If your fork has any tapped holes for a
rack, that's a good place to start.
Now, the Edelux was a splurge. I was rebuilding
Actually, you're only grounded with Shimano (and similar) hubs. My
understanding is that the SON hubs don't ground through the axle (though of
course, you're free to ground yourself) :-).
Anton You're grounded! Tutter
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:52 PM UTC-4, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro wrote:
Actually, you're only grounded with Shimano (and similar) hubs. My
understanding is that the SON hubs don't ground through the axle (though of
course, you're free to ground yourself) :-).
Anton You're grounded! Tutter
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I'd like the $15, if available...
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I don't think the folks you cited think that ramps don't help; rather, that
for doubles, not using indexed shifting, they help very little. If you're
running an STI triple, on the other hand, you essentially cast the chain
into the wind and hope that the wind catches it--which is precisely
Thanks to Portland Design Works, you no longer have to choose between metal
fenders and some kind of secu-clip:
https://www.ridepdw.com/goods/spare-parts/fmf-safety-tabs
For fender hardware generally, Nylock nuts are your best friend, especially
in hard-to-reach places. Locktite is probably
I did a slide fit on a VO fender stay and it appeared to work fine. I plan
to install them this weekend. Of course I've been planning to install them
for a little while--life has been *busy*!
On Friday, July 25, 2014 10:56:07 AM UTC-4, Roger wrote:
Those PDW clips look great.
Does anyone
Installed the PDW safety clips tonight. They were a perfect fit on the VO
stays and adjustment was a piece of cake.
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Sögreni stuff always looks to me to exist at the point where visual design
outruns common sense. It's always pretty, but the prettiness has reduced the
functionality.
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I have a paperwhite and I love it for reading. I frequently send PDFs to
it using the send to function.
Yes, it has a browser, and I could do gmail from it. But it would be
awkward, so I don't.
What I like is that it is essentially a single-function device. Everything
else--computer,
Because I generally ride what would be considered budget bikes on here,
I've never really worried all that much. I had a front wheel stolen off my
Raleigh GP 30 years ago (Chicago, and I failed to lock up the front wheel),
and a pair of Schwinns stolen out of a garage in upstate NY five years
Personally, I've followed the clipless path by (1) buying pretty much the
cheapest shoes I can find that fit (and the low-end Specialized have been
very good for that!) and (2) buying clipless-only pedals.
The latter may require some explanation.
I've found that clipping in is SO much better
Glad you're OK--and, BTW, that is some stick! Advice on the chin c--let
your beard grow out until the scab lifts on its own. Don't ask me how I
know to do this, just do it. Your face will thank you. And you'll always
wonder what happened in those few minutes you're missing, but I suspect
I'll tell you why clipless for me:
The first week I was using clipless pedals, a driver made an illegal left
turn in front of me. I hit the right rear section of his car and released
from my pedals. Prior to that, I'd been using clips and straps, and I have
no confidence that I would have
are even easier to slip out of.
On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 2:35:10 PM UTC-5, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
wrote:
I'll tell you why clipless for me:
The first week I was using clipless pedals, a driver made an illegal left
turn in front of me. I hit the right rear section of his car
I see you've let the cat out of the bag. Nice bag, BTW. What is it?
On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 9:07:31 AM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
I've always worried about my cat scratching-post-ing my tires, though we
seem to have an agreement
What Marc Irwin said.
I'm using 46/30 with 11/28 (8s) and I find I spend a lot of time now in the
middle gears. I tend to front shift at stop lights now: I shift 46-30 in
one of 2 or 3 middle gears, then shift 30-46 once I start to roll.
This is a relatively new system for me (I
Granted, most of us don't use snail mail much anymore. But the nice thing
about the USPS is that *nearly *everyone has a physical address, and
sending stuff to them via the USPS is not expensive. Imagine we abolishe
or privatize the USPS. Can you imagine what the per-letter rate to, oh, I
on 16T cog and my 46/42/26T chainrings gives me 76, 70 and 54. Start
off on the tiny ring, and cruise rolling hills on the half steps.
On Thursday, August 14, 2014 9:12:16 AM UTC-5, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
wrote:
What Marc Irwin said.
I'm using 46/30 with 11/28 (8s) and I find I
They even make some that are self-reproducing! Obviously, trible is a
misspelling of tribbel.
On Thursday, August 14, 2014 4:55:45 PM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:
Look! microshift makes a few 9 and 8 speed silver front derailers:
http://www.microshift.com.tw/road_fd.html
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Interesting. My Shimano 600 (last generation of pure friction) DT shifters
never require this...
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Rougher? Having used both the 600s and silvers, I must disagree with the
esteemed Grant P.
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shoestrings. They are all fine. Thank goodness we have the choices that
we have right now.
On Sunday, August 17, 2014 7:36:09 AM UTC-7, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro wrote:
Rougher? Having used both the 600s and silvers, I must disagree with the
esteemed Grant P.
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I don't know if the grommets would play nice with the Camlock system, but
you could certainly remove them and put the Camlocks on. Two concerns in
that respect--first, how wide are the HABs at the top? I think you'd be
pushing it with anything under 9 or so as far as the Camlock system goes.
I used to have an official PHC I Qualified for Raw Bits bumper
sticker...of course, I didn't own a car in those days :-).
On Wednesday, August 20, 2014 9:34:46 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
On 08/20/2014 07:49 PM, Kyle Brooks wrote:
and this last one that got somebody at Specialized a
I suspect anyone who spends $10K on a frame is *not* going to be scrimping
on what they hang on said frame. Just as a guess.
On Thursday, August 21, 2014 10:10:19 AM UTC-4, Garth wrote:
Arguing over what is a definition made my someone else defining what it
means to them . To them !
So
Is it possible that they're going to bring back Command Shifters??
On Thursday, August 21, 2014 10:58:08 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
Cheap, strong, and even light; just not silver. Rivendell should stock
them.
http://www.gevenalle.com/store/products/derailleurs/
Both f and r dee - ray
So, like, virtually EVERYTHING that Brooks makes, besides saddles, is a
halo product? Like this $500 handlebar bag
(http://www.brooksengland.com/catalogue-and-shop/bags/cycle+bags+%26+accoutrements/CORNWALL+Handlebar+Bag/)?
Or this $1700 cycling jacket
This may seem heretical, but:
http://www.alexscycle.com/bags-1/front-bag/ostrich-f-516-front-bag.html
Just sayin'.
On Saturday, August 23, 2014 7:43:44 PM UTC-4, Sean Cleary wrote:
After recent rides with 5+ lbs on front rack, I'm convinced my Hilsen
carries a load best in front–and perhaps
Sean:
I have one on order; I'll let you know how it looks when it gets here.
Before too many people here say anything, I have no illusion that it's
going to be quite up to the standard of some of the other bags I've seen,
but it's far closer in size to what I need, and the price is more than
The Orpington bags are wonderful--I owned one for a few months--but they're
too big for me. It helped me realize what I wanted and needed in an
handlebar bag.
First thing: something a bit smaller. I run a 40-42 cm bar, and the
Orpington really filled that space. I also made it
sells the F516 bag.
Another option is Loyal Bags out here in California. I have one of his
bags and they are real well made.
~mike
Carlsbad Ca
On Saturday, August 23, 2014 5:58:01 PM UTC-7, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
wrote:
This may seem heretical, but:
http://www.alexscycle.com/bags-1/front
Well, if you don't mind the points I raised on the Oripington--which you
may well not mind, they're idiosyncratic--it's a great bag at a great
price. And unlike everything else, comes in your choice of colors, now
including bright red.
On Sunday, August 24, 2014 10:49:29 PM UTC-4, Sean Cleary
I have a 113 BB...linked here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/am-s/14183446620/. Your choice, $10 +
shipping from Connecticut.
On Monday, August 25, 2014 1:53:02 PM UTC-4, shawn m. wrote:
Building up a 56cm Atlantis frameset (thanks, Eric!), I've now discovered
that neither of the rear
We'll soon see what that Ostrich is like; I'm told the order has been
processed, which means I should have it late next week.
On Saturday, August 23, 2014 7:43:44 PM UTC-4, Sean Cleary wrote:
After recent rides with 5+ lbs on front rack, I'm convinced my Hilsen
carries a load best in
Ca
On Saturday, August 23, 2014 5:58:01 PM UTC-7, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
wrote:
This may seem heretical, but:
http://www.alexscycle.com/bags-1/front-bag/ostrich-f-516-front-bag.html
Just sayin'.
On Saturday, August 23, 2014 7:43:44 PM UTC-4, Sean Cleary wrote:
After recent rides
I run a similar setup with a 16t jump, 46/30, and initially I was very
unhappy with the pattern. But with the right cassette, I find it works for
me. I think that's an important part of the mix. Just switching over to
the big jump won't always do the job.
On Wednesday, August 27, 2014
While I prefer a different set of parts (and I *like* DT shifters) I have
to agree enthusiastically with you about aesthetics, and I think a lot of
other folks here will as well. There's something about the classic shape
that even practicality (in some cases) can't outweigh.
On Thursday,
Given your preference for close spacing, isn't the 11-28 anomalous? That's
a fairly wide-range cassette...I suppose it depend on how many speeds
you're running, but after a little while, I found the 11-28 8s
uncomfortable. I'm much happier with an SRAM 12-26 9s cassette.
On Friday, August
I promised I would report on the Ostrich F516 bag when it arrived. It was
back-ordered, since I wanted a black one, but it came today, and it's all
that I hoped for. Photos to be found here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/am-s/sets/72157647147980622/
The fabric is black nylon, lined with
Yeah, but not in a *d'a *way. It's a little on the small side, but all
that I need for 90% of the riding I do.
On Tuesday, September 2, 2014 2:43:15 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
It's CUTE!
On Tuesday, September 2, 2014 10:57:32 AM UTC-7, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
wrote:
I promised I
The Orpington is a great bag at a great price if it fits your needs. It
almost, but not quite, fit mine. They're definitely going in the right
direction, though. I hope to see a *slightly *different version at some
point: shorter front-to-back, taller, flap opening the other way.
On
Oh, geez.
Glad you're mostly intact, so sorry for your bike!
What others have said. Photograph *everything.* If you have bruises that
emerge over time, take photos every day to show the progress. And be very
careful, injuries can appear after a while, so go slow, but check
everything out.
Given the look of that impact, check the front hub carefully before using
it to rebuild a wheel...you may need a new Schmidt.
On Sunday, September 7, 2014 6:00:27 PM UTC-4, Christopher Chen wrote:
Oh my god Jinxed that makes me want to cry.
I'll be riding the chicken once my new helmet gets
Which raises an interesting question, since many of us use
U-locks-and-cable approaches. Are there ways of locking up with a U-lock
(preferrably a smallish one) that defeat most methods of defeating the
things?
On Thursday, September 11, 2014 10:27:54 AM UTC-4, Rusty Click wrote:
Early on,
with the same lock. Can I reasonably do more than that?
On Thursday, September 11, 2014 12:00:15 PM UTC-4, Jim M. wrote:
On Thursday, September 11, 2014 7:46:54 AM UTC-7, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
wrote:
Which raises an interesting question, since many of us use
U-locks-and-cable approaches
asking
questions.
Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh
On Thursday, September 11, 2014 12:00:15 PM UTC-4, Jim M. wrote:
On Thursday, September 11, 2014 7:46:54 AM UTC-7, Andrew
Marchant-Shapiro wrote:
Which raises an interesting question, since many of us use
U-locks-and-cable approaches
The VO saddles *are* hard to break in. I've been riding mine for two
years, and it's just getting a few dents now, but I ride far back, on the
cantle, so that likely makes a difference.
For all that, I have to say that it's a pretty comfortable saddle (I'm
using the Model 1, which is no
You and me neither. I own a good set of panniers and use them for books,
papers, and groceries. Cardboard is for those who can't think ahead.
On Saturday, September 13, 2014 8:56:57 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
First we were killing the planet with paper bags, then because we used
Interesting. Someone could make an add-on piece to allow any lock to work
that way--or (for those who don't like carrying an extra cable) a short
cable to be used in the same fashion on the (more) vulnerable front wheel.
On Saturday, September 13, 2014 12:52:43 PM UTC-4, Jim Edgar wrote:
I
I can't find the model I own anymore on Cateye's site, but--IME--Cateye
makes good computers. I never considered wireless until I was dealing with
a mess of wire for my lighting system, but I'm glad I did. Although I did
ultimately switch to using the handlebar mount, for a long time I left
I have a Strada wireless and (once so far) had the same experience. Wish I
had taken a photo. Details here:
http://lawschoolissoover.wordpress.com/2014/08/06/they-often-call-me-speedoleaving-the-bike-lane/
On Monday, September 15, 2014 9:24:02 PM UTC-4, Anne Paulson wrote:
I use the
I have the same experience as Steve P: my Strada's batteries seem to last
a year. I replace both (transmitter and receiver) at the same time, though
it's likely I don't need to.
On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 7:14:56 AM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
On 09/16/2014 06:53 AM, Eric Platt wrote:
If I have to choose (usually I don't) I'll protect the front first for two
reasons.
1. I usually run a dynohub, so that wheel is expensive to replace
2. I anticipate that the casual thief (my nemesis) will eschew getting
him- or herself greasy. Rear wheels are generally harder and messier
in our Minneapolis suburbs are
orphan front wheels locked to a bike rack. Apparently the owners didn't
understand the meaning of quick release skewers!
On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 8:46:56 AM UTC-5, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
wrote:
If I have to choose (usually I don't) I'll protect the front
Anyone told Neal Stephenson about this?
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VO used to sell a set, possibly may still.
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Well, clearly, we need forks made from Damascus steel!
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There are alternatives to rim dynamos as well. I recently did a user
(i.e., non-technical) review of a number of different types of generators
on my blog. It's fairly long, but if you want to start from the beginning,
you can go here:
I believe I have had good luck with the Spanninga Pixeo. It is my sole active
illumination to the rear, though I have reflective tape, the Pixeo's reflector,
and an additional reflector on the rear rack.
The Pixeo (dynamo version) is very bright--as bright IMO as some headlights
I've used,
I used to buy bikes for my lifetime, until I realized that each and every
bike I've had has ridden differently, and I've *liked* the difference. Two
years ago I lost a Trek 560 that I absolutely *loved. *I was going to get
a custom-built replacement, but that ultimately proved unworkable.
PM, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
marchan...@gmail.com javascript: wrote:
I believe I have had good luck with the Spanninga Pixeo. It is my sole
active illumination to the rear, though I have reflective tape, the Pixeo's
reflector, and an additional reflector on the rear rack.
The Pixeo (dynamo
W/r/t Q:
My current crankset, a Sugino PX double on a 118 BB, feels significantly
narrower in terms of Q than my last few (last one on the same bike was an
Ultegra 6500-series road double on the standard spindle, I forget the size,
last other was a Sugino XD triple on a 113). It's not really
I happened to burn one out during dynamo testing--I had the whole lighting
system wired up in parallel for easier cable runs, then switched off the
headlight, so the Pixeo got all the power of a dynohub. It was gone. One
of the nicest things about getting a new one was being able to unscrew
For me, there is indeed a difference between dynamo and no dynamo. One of the
reasons I've switched (for now) to the Velogical rim dynamo.
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I like it. It's not a hub dyno, but it may just have seduced me away from hub
dynos. See my blog for a review, especially
http://lawschoolissoover.wordpress.com/2014/08/26/something-old-is-new-again-the-velogical-rim-dynamo/
I also comment on it in the comparative section.
Don't forget
I'm happy not to live in goathead country! 20 years ago I was at a family
reunion in Utah and borrowed my nephew's MTB. That was my first experience with
the little buggers. Just awful. I can't imagine what they must do to road
tires!
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Dunno about the green ones, but I get my black (and sometimes red) O-rings
at the local hardware...
On Tuesday, September 30, 2014 2:11:56 PM UTC-4, Tim Gavin wrote:
I also use the off-center Synergy rear wheel. On a 130 mm Phil FW hub, it
results in only 1 mm of dish. I didn't even need a
What I wear varies with the temperature. If it's warm enough for shorts and a
T-shirt and sandals, I use a rain cape. Sail be damned, it's cool enough. If
it's shorts jacket weather, a rain jacket (Burley) with pit zips. If it's
colder than that, I add rain pants. There are son lovely
I really want to love saddlebags. I love the concept, I've owned many, and
every few years I try again. I even invented a mount that involved a loop
secured with a Seat Sandwich, after bad luck with the SQR.
But for me, saddlebags don't work well.
So now I use a rack and panniers. Not so
a larger saddlebag on this latest build of mine.
On Wednesday, October 1, 2014 2:12:05 AM UTC-7, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
wrote:
I really want to love saddlebags. I love the concept, I've owned many,
and every few years I try again. I even invented a mount that involved a
loop secured
I'm interested as well. Campmor user here, too. I hook the thumb loops over
the brake levers and tie it at my waist. Can you do that with the Grunden?
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Don't forget Shimano. I have nearly 10 years/15,000 miles on one of theirs,
and I'm pretty pleased with it. Cheap and readily available and very reliable.
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Before I had a front rack, I used a section of flat steel rear rack bracket,
bent to shape in a vise and clamped under my front caliper. That worked well
with a homebrew LED light similar in size and weight to an Edelux.
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After extensive testing, and given that I have a Velogical rim dynamo, I am
selling my dynohub wheelset.
Front hub is a Shimano DHN370 (or DNH--I can't recall precisely the
sequence).
Rear hub is a Shimano 105 of the 9-speed era.
Each hub is laced with 32 double-butted stainless spokes to a
Sorry--yes, I should have specified: 700C they are.
On Thursday, October 9, 2014 10:59:54 PM UTC-4, Shawn Granton wrote:
What size are the wheels? 700C?
-Shawn
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Edelux (Mark I) and Pixeo. They work fine.
On Friday, October 10, 2014 9:06:14 AM UTC-4, Matthew J wrote:
What light[s] are you using with the Velological?
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My Shimano DynoHub (which is for sale along with its wheel) vibrates
noticeably at rather high speeds (30 MPH+) when the headlight is engaged
(tried it on a downhill once). Aside from that, it doesn't.
On Friday, October 10, 2014 10:32:18 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:
I only very occasionally
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