Looks like you are well set up for the next thirty years. No way to
improve on that collection.
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chainstays are blocked by the rack and fender so my
Princeton Tec Swerve is a no-go. Normally I clip a traditional square
light to the back of my pants or belt and put it on flash mode.
I must figure out another place to mount a light.
Ginz
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If you go with the smaller frame, it will be tougher to get the bars
up high enough and, even if you do, the cockpit length may end up too
short.
Consider which bars you plan to use. If it is BullMoose, definitely
get the larger frame because the quill on the BullMoose is rather
short.
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Clanger, maybe, but no one is going to talk
me out of a front changer. I'm a huge MASH fan, as well.
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Joe -- good insight. I don't believe it is an IGH, either.
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, having a very short head tube, I couldn't get the yoke
high enough to make the brakes feel good. So, I used the Problem
Solvers wide yoke which similates a high yoke,
In the end, it works. In the future, I will look for a rack that does
not occupy the fork crown!
Good Luck,
Ginz
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Ressurecting my XO-2 as a light city-bike and, hopefully,with the
BuBar.
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You can wear a wool glove without the permanent sweatiness of a sewn-
in wind/weather layer. I kind of like it.
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If the bolt patter on the Salsa cage is problematic, you may want to
try a Bike Buddy.
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I don't see these on your list, so maybe they are already sold ---
I'll take the techtonic brake pads (two pairs)
How many holes are the rhyno lites and what is the asking price?
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I might consider one of these lockers as well. Perhaps I'd paint the
word TRASH on there so thieves would think it is a house for my
garbage cans.
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Thanks for the review, Mojo! Any comments on sizing?
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The ability to get the grips way up high with a technomic deluxe,
rather than a technomic, is priceless to this short rider with a
short, short headtube.
Gotta love Grant's personal bikes!
Ginz
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I remember seeing these photos on the old old old Rivendell site when
they had a customer photo gallery. Really really nice.
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Can you push the rack closer to the seat stays so that the rack loop
is under the saddle? I have a similar problem where the frame of the
saddle prevents me from pushing the rack forward.
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see going for a
Hillborne with canti's when one can get an Atlantis. If the $500
difference bothers you, go Hunqapillar! Sorry to add to the
confusion.
Ginz
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If you want to use the holders, the Kool Stop V Type inserts should
work though I'm not positive. However, I highly recommend ditching
the holders for the Kool Stop Mountain pads in Salmon if you have
clearance for them!
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Last time I'll try to trade this Mark's rack! Is anyone interested in
trading their Top Rack for my Mark's rack? I'm willing to sweeten the
deal if needed.
Please reply off list if interested!
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Good guess, Rob. If that is it, the Arc Bar in my basement is about
to go up in value $$$. I never did like it too much and the curve is
much like the new Bullmoose.
My guess is something like the Nitto Promenade. An Albatross where
the grip section rises. This would eliminate the need for
Thomas,
A full report on the Rohloff Bombadil is expected!!
Ginz
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rbw
Mike,
I apologize if I already asked, but is that big back rack the small
size or the large size?
Thanks,
Eric
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Also, try beeswax on the threads of the adjustment bolt.
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Between last weeks hurricane and this weeks soaking rain, I should be
in a Grundens.
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Lot's a good, pratical user experience in this thread!
Regarding Cyo, how does it hold up under bucketing rain? Does it take
on water? I've read some concerns about it not being as tight as the
Edelux...
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Regarding the Edelux, Cyo R, and others, are these lights so bright
that runners, bikers and other commuter path users will hate me?! I
like the brightness on a gravel road, but in the city, I don't want to
annoy folks.
Thanks,
Ginz
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I'm using Kool Stop Mountain in the front and the Thinline in the
back. I do not like the Thinline with this brake.
I found that I had to RAISE the yoke in the front. I guess different
levers can have a big impact on mechanical advantage even thought they
are all made for cantis?
On Aug 28,
My experience with the CR720 requires the yoke to be as high... so
high that I had to use an extra-wide yoke because the straddle cable
wasn't long enough.
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Hello All,
I am curious to hear your experiences with mini front racks such as
the Nitto Mini or Mark's Rack and cantilever brakes.
I currently have Nitto Mini-style rack with a post that mounts through
the fork crown. I'm using Tektro CR720 high profile brakes, older
Suntour mtb levers and a
with caliper brakes. The photos with canti brakes simply show a
higher yoke. I wonder if they are not pickey about the feel at the
lever. Or, maybe the mtb-style levers have a little less mech
advantage than drop bar levers?
Canti brakes make my head hurt!
Ginz
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Thanks, J. I'll try the Shimano/Paul setup and see how it feels.
I thought of attaching the Mark's Rack to the Hunq's rack bosses on
the fork blades. Maybe the nitto diving board struts would work.
Anyone tried this or similar?
Ginz
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Garth,
That setup is exactly what I want to try. Thanks!
Ginz
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Garth,
That's the setup I would like to try. Thanks! Is it nice and sturdy?
Ginz
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is a bargain in
that respect.
Should I part with the Hunq'a frame while it is new and invest in
some other stuff like a dyno hub, more racks and luggage, a second
wheelset for the Capricorn?
Thanks for any advice and therapy,
Ginz
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Thanks, everyone for the input. The delay in building it up was
mostly related to a long house move, cold winter, general laziness and
a twinge of buyer's remorse. Also, the Capricorn is the first bike
that is actually comfortable for me so that need to try yet another
bike had subsided a bit.
I have a set of older Phil Touring hubs without the field serviceable
axle. I bought a few freewheels from Riv. I would absolutely by a
brand new set today so long as I were comfortable with a 7 or 8speed
setup. Why? Simply because there are barely any quality cassette
hubs with cartridge
Someone ought to start up a last-minute S24O google group not that
I'm volunteering! :)
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Has anyone had any luck servicing their non-FSA hub? Phil Wood
customer service suggested I insert a QR skewer at an angle and tap
(slam!) it on a hard surface to push the oppossite end cap off. I
tried it years ago but was very shy about it. Anyone tried this
technique?
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Nice Hunq'a! Skinny tires, though!
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All other differences aside, I think some folks would prefer the
single top-tubed Atlantis over the Hunq simply based on asthetics.
That is a perfectly resonable feeling. It took me a while, but I have
come to like the double-tube.
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Great idea. The photoshoppers are now hard at work adding triple diag-
a-tubes, invert-a-tubes and xris-xross-tubes!
On Jun 22, 4:24 am, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
Just have a cobbled together gag bike made up to freak everyone out
withthen reveal the actual bicycle. But the
I never thought of using a shorter spindle to get a better
(straighter) angle between the middle ring and the big cogs. That's
where I spend most of my time. :)
That makes a lot of sense!
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To me, brazing a handle to the seat tube is in the whack-job
category. A triangular frame bag is a possibility.
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to email Riv to be certain. My Hunq'a
frame is still in the box at the moment so I'm not sure either. :)
Ginz
On Jun 20, 11:54 am, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:
Hi Ginz, I currently am using 135mm Phil 7sp FW hubs with multiple
sets of wheels. I may go to a 9sp. cassette one day, but I
Chaincase. I would still put on two rings and shift with a big stick!
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It won't depend so much on the frame as it will on your rear hub and
cassette or freewheel. Assuming you have a 135mm hub that is,
presumably a 9speed or 8speed freehub, a 113mm is probably the best
choice. If you are using a 7sp or 8sp freewheel hub, not as likely
given the 135mm spacing, tell
Agreed, in my book, SKS are the standard. The metal fenders are
beautiful but I'm afraid I'll bend them to their ruin. Also, there's
the SKS quick release clip with is a feature I enjoy.
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I would love to know the correct torque specs on brake cable anchor
bolts. I seem to always gall them out. I just don't want that cable
to break loose!
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sticking with the XCE. I imagine that if indexing,
specifically with brifters or rapid fire, the difference would be less
noticeable if at all.
If I can find a few more XCE's or similar to stock pile, I'll probably
unload my IRD's here!
Ginz
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cockpit length and bar height with your change in comfort
level.
Ginz
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Steve,
Is that a 48cm? I had the same exact problem with my 48cm XO-2. The
headtube was too short for a dirt drop and I couldn't get enough
height out of it! I'm now a believer in headtube extensions.
Great looking bike, btw.
Ginz
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Since I need a braze-on front der. that will work with a 26/36/46, I
ordered an old, cheap Shimano from eBay. I swear that the lever arm
(near the cable anchor) on my IRD der. is ironically not providing
enough leverage when combined with the Silver shifter. I'll report
back on this combo in a
I'm using the IRD with a Silver bar end shifter and I find that it
takes an awful lot of force to shift to the big cog. I literally tore
a ligament in my thumb on it. Anyone else had success increasing
leverage of the cable's pull?
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Oh, and I'm running a 26/36/46 and other than the above issue, the IRD
shifts perfectly.
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Thomas,
Thanks for pointing out the lack of bungee hook. I would have
completely overlooked that. I also like that rack and maybe I would
make a small bungee hook from a piece of scrap metal.
How about some photos with your TourSacks installed!!
ginz
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Steve,
Sorry, I wasn't clear. I hurt my thumb shifting to the big
chainring. I had a habit of grabbing the bar end shifter and prying
with my thumb like a can opener.
Ginz
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I'm not a fan of drops, either. My arms are too short. On a
singlespeed/fixed gear, I want something wide for leverage. If you go
with a flared drop like the On One Midge, be aware that you will have
to be stretched out and on the hooks to take advantage of the bars
width when standing and
Your bike is a stunner! It is interesting that Rivendell let's a bike
like that go out the door without pasting photos all over the website
and promoting it. Humble, indeed!!
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You must not be pulling up hard enough andwell off to the
side, if you know what I mean.
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Sounds fantastic!
What is your source for skin wall mtb tires?
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Not too well. The Hunqa frame is still in the box. I'm in that mode
of competing priorities and lack of space for more bikes.
As for freewheels, and not to derail this thread, I would gladly move
to cassettes if a good quality 8sp could be had at a reasonable price.
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That or you spilled lunch on your fender!Since it is the end of
winter, may as well do an overhaul, right? Can't go wrong with a
little Framesaver.
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The green cotton is very thick and rugged, even thicker than the
cotton duck used on Carradice bags if I am not mistaken.
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It is a cold, snowy winter in PA. Send a vest here, please!!
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Might be cheapest to replace the fork. :)
On Dec 7, 9:10 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
Hi,
I have a 1990 Fisher Sphinx monster cross in addition to my Sam that
is getting more and more rivvish by the year, but is a size too small.
Since the Fisher has a 1 1/4 (!) threaded steerer,
There is a photo essay on frame replacement here:
http://nplus1bikes.blogspot.com/2010/09/brooks-professional-saddle-frame.html
I remember reading another such tale that expressed the difficultly of
stretching the top over the new frame... I cannot remember whose blog
that was off the top of my
Second Rick Hunter. I don't know of any other custom builders that
will do a quill stem... and only a stem without a frame.
The Nitto Dirt Drop looks great in my opinion. I like it better than
a Techno Deluxe. Give it a try, you can always sell it on the forum!
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Please put this Philly-based rider on the the list as well!
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Gola Harriers in Suede. They are indoor soccer shoes, similar in
style to the Adidas Samba but with a durable suede upper and trendy
good looks. :)
They are narrow. So, wider feet need not bother. However, they work
well on the narrowest track pedals and toe clips. Difficult to find
in the
I second the dark blue, or baby blue...or brown brown brown.
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I'd use 7sp cassettes if the selection were a bit better and the
quality a bit higher. For now, I'm using 8sp...
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Also, the spacer you put behind the 7sp cassette (on an 8sp freehub
body) will change the alignment. So, adjusting the limit screws is
definitely necessary.
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Given your size requirements, I think the best advice on the subject
can be had directly from Grant. I suspect he would say Bomb'a!
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The plastic sleeves inside vbrake noodles could work. They look very
similar to the sleeves I've seen in Rivendell's photos.
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I'll trade my lightly used Mark's Rack for a Nitto Mini if anyone is
interested!
On Oct 22, 3:26 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
FYI. I had a Marks Rack on backorder for a while. It arrived
yesterday, and the Rivsite has them back in stock now.
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I wore out the pivot assembly on an XTR M95x. The upper pully was
grinding on the cassette no matter what I did. $25 and 20 minutes
later, the new pivot spring brought it back to life.
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How hot did I make it? Not very hot. Just warm it up so that when
you bend it, it stays bent and sets in the net position. The plastic
has a sort of memory that is can be reprogrammed with heat and a
little bending (I hope no materials scientists are reading this!) A
hairdryer would be fine.
Kevin,
I had a warped SKS front fender that warped because of the way it was
stored for a few years. A gentle bending and coaxing with a heat gun
(or hair dryer) set it back into shape. Also, the stays will do a
good job of pulling the fender into shape.
Good luck,
Ginz
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Is anyone using Silver bar end shifters with the IRD front
derailleur? Do you find the shifting action to be odd...almost
parabolic? My thumb is killing me after shifting between the middle
and granny rings a bunch of times. It seems to require more prying
force than with my old Shimano front
Steve,
Yep, mine is setup the same way. My description, above, was
incorrect. It feels to me like the lever requires a long, easy throw
from the granny to the middle ring. But, the throw from the middle up
to the big ring is short and very stiff.
Ginz
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I went through the same thing. Any bike shop that works on older
bikes and three speeds or has been in business for a long time will
have a 50-gallon drum filled with those! Just bring the lever and
point. They'll know what you are asking for.
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All are claimed!
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For more
Free for postage, issue Autumn 2010 and Summer 2010 of Bicycle
Quarterly magazine. Good reading.
One per person, so the first two responders get them!
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Sounds like a good trip. I innocently visted Rivendell a few months
ago while on vacation. Next thing I know, I ordered a Hunqapillar!
Oops.
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Agreed, William said it perfectly!
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Check out the photos of the patch kit at the Rivendell site and you'll
see...
On Sep 18, 11:48 am, Bob827 rlewis...@gmail.com wrote:
What is the dime for?
Bob
On Sep 18, 8:43 am, Mojo gjtra...@yahoo.com wrote:
Because they charge you directly for the dime they throw into the
patch kit.
Like Dave, I have experience with the Single Digit 7's which are
fantastic for the money. One thing I do like about the Ultimates is
that you can place the noodle on either side.
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I think that the main advantage of the Phil FW hub is that you get a
super nice, super strong hub and axle with extremely durable cartridge
bearings at a *reasonable* price. I don't know of a cassette hub with
those characteristics.
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Friday nights swapping
handlebars, racks and pedals. :)
Ginz
On Aug 25, 5:30 pm, RJM rjme...@gmail.com wrote:
Thanks for all the suggestions.
I was thinking two bikes because one would have drop bars, barcons and
front and rear pannier racks and the other bike, the trail worthy
bike, would have
With regard to the Hunq'a vs. Bombadil question:
I would be inclined to stick with the 26 wheels of the Hunq'a so that
wheels can be shared with the Atlantis. You'll also save a few bucks
in exchange for the extra fanciness of the Bombadil.
On Aug 26, 9:27 am, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:
I
Check out www.minibulldesign.com. Tinny is quite the tinkerer and
manufacturers compact alcohol stoves. If you search through his
videos, there are many devoted to the pros and cons of various alcohol
fuels, dehyrating food for camping trips, recipies and even baking
with a alcohol stove. Have a
Yeah, that sounds like one of those incompatibilities you only come
across through personal experience. You could try some lower-profile
brakes or the Nitto M12 rack.
On Aug 6, 4:49 pm, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:
When installing some CR720's today on the Bombadil, I found out they
? The modifications
seem very simple.
Thanks,
Ginz
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I'm using Tektro CR720s with both Kool Stop Mountain and Thinline
pads. The Mountain pad is much better for these brakes. In the
future, I will only use Thinlines with v-brakes. I believe the
Yokozuna pads have the same compound as Kool Stop.
How about Avid, Jagwire and Ritchey, all good pads
.
On Jul 27, 9:44 am, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:
I'm using Tektro CR720s with both Kool Stop Mountain and Thinline
pads. The Mountain pad is much better for these brakes. In the
future, I will only use Thinlines with v-brakes. I believe the
Yokozuna pads have the same compound as Kool Stop
Do keep us updated on your build. I may be undertaking the exact same
exercise in a few months. My early vote is for 1x8 though I could see
a granny ring being a relationship saver.
On Jul 25, 9:45 am, Allingham II, Thomas J
thomas.alling...@skadden.com wrote:
Sure. Probably a few weeks. But
Great story and thanks for the RenoVelo spy shots!
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I go to 28 or 29ft lbs with Sugino cranks and the thinniest posible
film of grease. Never a problem.
On Jul 23, 6:38 am, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
Eric,
I have had a couple of crank arms looses...it has always been my
fault.
When I torque the crank-arm bolts I have not had one
digging into my sole (nor my soul.)
I would not mind if they were a little more grippy, so I'll probably
try adding some spikes.
Is anyone else a convert? Any tips on removing the dust cap so I can
adjust the bearings?
Ginz
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I wish my 48cm Hunq'a would come with the hard-shaped cutouts! That
is very nice.
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I have a set of pedals similar to the Sneaker Pedal and they are fun
for cruising. However, I really do love the length of the Grip
Kings. The aching in my arches ankles is completely gone as the Grip
King prevents me from tipping my toes downward. I just didn't think
I'd like the pedals quite
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