Re: [RBW] Edelux II Headlamp Moisture - Is my light cooked?

[Mr. Ray]

As Peter (the distributor of SON) writes, it will dry out.  Has happened to 
both my Edelux 1 and 2 lamps over the years with no effect to the lights 
output.

On Sunday, March 17, 2024 at 8:02:53 AM UTC-4 peter...@gmail.com wrote:

> It's possible for water to enter the Edelux II housing, though it is not 
> easy. However, the electronics inside are permanently encased in some sort 
> of goop (that's a highly technical term) and will never be affected by 
> water. So just keep riding and after a few days in good weather the little 
> droplets will disappear.
>
> PJW
>
> On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 1:16 AM Collin A  wrote:
>
>> Howdy Folks,
>>
>> I wanted to query the collective experience of the group and ask a couple 
>> questions regarding the ingress of moisture in my edelux II headlamp:
>>
>>1. For those that have experienced it, does the condensation 
>>eventually dry out? If not, has anything you've tried been successful in 
>>resolving it?
>>2. Have there been any instances of a light NOT cutting 
>>out/dimming/etc. once there is moisture within the light?
>>3. At the end of the day, should take the "wait and see" approach or 
>>just call in the warranty before it craps out?
>>
>> I only just noticed that there was condensation on the inside of the 
>> glass this afternoon while removing fenders, so I have no idea how long 
>> it's been there (although I did do a particularly wet ride last weekend). 
>> Additionally I haven't noticed any reduced output or other issuesyet. I 
>> marked the extents of the moisture and took a few photos to see if it'll 
>> change over time.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Collin, a bit moist, in Berkeley
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
> Peter White
>

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[RBW] Re: mounting a light to Nitto 32F

[Mr. Ray]

I have my Edelux mounted the same way and the Wald rail rubbed off a bit of 
aluminum at the top of the light even with a few millimeters of clearance.  
I ended up bending the interfering rail upwards for more clearance.  This 
worked but the cosmetic damage is done.  If I were to do it again, I would 
buy the hanging Edelux or use this Tanaka basket mount:  

https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/320707-tanaka-dynamo-light-mount-for-basket-ii-6544?page=3=950#attr=



  

   

On Sunday, November 26, 2023 at 8:07:49 PM UTC-5 Paul Richardson wrote:

> howdy folks
>
> i have a nitto 32f 
> 
>  rack 
> with a wald basket, and i'm trying to figure out the best way to mount an 
> edelux to it.  (the light is an upright mount, not a hanging mount).
>
> i bought the nitto lamp holder, not realizing that its intended use seems 
> oriented toward a rack with actual struts, as opposed to the 32f which is a 
> single piece and thus cannot use the strut mount.  i've got it bolted onto 
> one of the braze-on mounts, but the clearance is quite bad and i don't like 
> it.  i also tried it on a b+m light mount that i zip-tied to the rack, but 
> that left me wanting both aesthetically and functionally.  hoping the pics 
> help this make sense.  
>
> i'd welcome any input on mounting ideas.
>
> thanks!
> paul
> takoma park, md.
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Fender Installation and Usage Experiences

[Mr. Ray]

Ben's Cycle (Milwaukee) also carries Berthoud.  
On Thursday, October 26, 2023 at 1:05:52 PM UTC-4 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:

> Brian, do you have a state-side distributor for the Berthound fenders? 
> These look interesting. I've found them on the Berthound Cycles website but 
> they're almost the same price as the Honjo fenders after shipping from 
> Europe.
>
> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 10:35 AM Brian Turner  wrote:
>
>> Ted, have you looked at the fenders made by Berthoud? I recently called 
>> up Peter White and ordered a set for my new Atlantis project. They're 
>> stainless, and smooth, but more affordable than some of the other offerings 
>> you mentioned above. The best thing however, I only had to drill one hole 
>> to match up to my rear brake bridge mounting point. Everything else was 
>> pre-drilled (the stays, the hole near the bottom bracket / chainstay 
>> bridge, and the front fender crown). You still have to have some good 
>> attention to detail to get good, clean fender lines... but having almost 
>> all of your holes pre-drilled certainly takes almost all of the real stress 
>> out of the equation.
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>

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[RBW] Re: Feedback wanted on ordering from circles-jp.com in Japan

[Mr. Ray]

Ordered from them in the past.  Zero problems.  Circles is an established 
online shop in Japan.  If the product/price is rightgo for it.

On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 11:43:53 PM UTC-4 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> I am considering ordering a bicycle accessory from Circles-jp.a web store 
> in Japan. 
>
> https://shop.circles-jp.com/
>
> What are your thoughts and comments about your experiences ordering from 
> them; pros and cons.
>
> Thank-you.
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA.
>

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[RBW] Re: MINT MUSA 58cm "Disc" Hunqapillar Waterford x D Paint

[Mr. Ray]

Interesting project.  If I may ask, how much did adding ISO disc tabs cost?

On Monday, May 22, 2023 at 2:31:12 PM UTC-4 jasonz...@gmail.com wrote:

> https://crustbikes.com/a/shopicial/topics/164653
>
> Frame and associated "kit" for this build project listed on the Crust 
> Trader.  As I mentioned in my post about my beloved Quickbeam FS add. I am 
> totally cutting things back and decided this is a bike that I have lusted 
> for and paid dearly for (lol?) but figured I should put it out there for 
> someone to tour and ride, more than I'll have the capacity for.
>
> Details are on the crust page. please email me if youre seriously 
> interested.  It is being sold as a kit since I don't have the need for the 
> bits and bobs and won't have the time to part out individually.  I'm asking 
> 4,750.00 shipped to lower 48. Open to reasonable offers.
>
> More photos of the parts will be added as I can get to them later today.
>
> Cheers.
>

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[RBW] Re: lock ring too tight

[Mr. Ray]

Looks like your lockring is "lightweight" aluminum.  The shards are likely 
aluminum as the cassette cog is steel.  You don't say what your freehub 
body is.  I would remove and inspect the lockring (replace or re-use) and 
re-tighten to correct torque.

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 11:27:34 AM UTC-4 Adam wrote:

>
> 
>
> 
> Thanks for the thoughts, here's a quick pic. 
> 
>
> I don't have time to take the wheel off for a better image at the moment 
> (running out the door), but here's a sense of the bite into the cassette. 
> I'm wondering if I missed the thin washer that's supposed to be there.
>
> Any other thoughts, I'm happy to hear. (esp if it means I can wait to deal 
> with this!)
>
> If anyone has advice on a low-budget torque wrench let me know.
>
> THANKS
>
> Adam
>
>
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 9:37:45 AM UTC-5 Tony Lockhart wrote:
>
>> Hi Adam, 
>>
>> Sorry to hear about the complications. I’m curious to see close-up 
>> pictures of the damage.
>>
>> Depending on how much risk you’re comfortable with I think you could take 
>> progressively longer rides to make sure everything is OK. In this situation 
>> I would remove the parts, inspect, reinstall, and torque to the proper 
>> spec…. Followed by a number of rides that increasing distance. This might 
>> be a good teachable moment for you, and I don’t think being cautious could 
>> hurt you.
>>
>> Good luck!
>> Tony
>>
>> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 7:06:35 AM UTC-7 Adam wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> Asking for thoughts on a silly mistake that I made last night.
>>>
>>> I was in the process of replacing a cassette (had not tried this myself 
>>> before) and I cranked way too hard on a fairly long wrench and 
>>> over-tightened the lock ring. It dug into the cassette and produced some 
>>> little shards. (I did grease the threads, and don't think it's 
>>> cross-threaded, all was fine until the END)
>>>
>>> The question: does it make better sense to try to fix this now (loosen 
>>> and re-tighten), or should I just save this problem for an older, wiser me 
>>> in a year or two when I change the cassette again?
>>>
>>> I know I should get a torque wrench, but . . .
>>>
>>> THANKS!
>>>
>>> Adam
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Son Hub advice

[Mr. Ray]

Like others have said, get the hub for the brakes you use.  If you still 
want to "future proof", get the SON disc hub for Shimano "centerlock" 
discs.  It provides a slightly stronger wheel build than the "6 bolt ISO" 
disc version; spokes closer to equal on both sides.  Also pick the 12mm 
thru axle version.  With an adaptor you can make this version work with 
QR's.
On Saturday, April 15, 2023 at 10:25:05 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:

> Disc brakes with quick release hubs are a PITA.  Get the widest SON 
> non-disc hub that that you can afford.
> But remember, this advice is coming from an overweight guy who builds new 
> wheels for himself several times a year, so I go all-in on wheel strength, 
> I have a huge parts stash, and I know that obsolete parts are just an eBay 
> search away.
>
> Peter White, the generator hub guru, is the importer for SON hubs and also 
> sells Panasonic generator hubs (until his current stock sells out) $60 for 
> non disc, $70 for disc. You could build two Panasonic hubbed wheels for the 
> price of a SON hubbed wheel if you wanted. But get the wide SON hub wheel.
>
> Laing
> Who owns four SON hubs (1 disc), two Shimano generator hubs,  one Shutter 
> Precision disc generator hub, one Sturmey Archer OG drum brake Dynohub, one 
> Panasonic disc Dyna Hub, one Sanyo bottom bracket mounted generator, one 
> Flying Pigeon OE bottle generator, and one VO sourced generator hub (that 
> doesn't play well with LED lights) that I cannot remember the manufacturer 
> of.
>
> On Saturday, April 15, 2023 at 7:47:32 AM UTC-4 peter...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hi, 
>>
>> I'm looking to get the Son dynamo hub. Considering it's price I'd rather 
>> make an informed (still quite impulsive) decision..hah!
>>
>> I have a bike with both rim and disc brake mounts (with QR) so I usually 
>> buy disc hubs, to future proof the hub purchase, but continue to run 
>> v-brakes (for now). Is this a sound approach to continue with this buy i.e. 
>> disc hubs with v-brake rims?
>>
>> Based on SON's website, I think Son28 would be appropriate considering 
>> it's better to charge devices at low speeds. So, in this case I would take 
>> the "SON 28 Hub Dynamo - 6-Bolt - QR".
>>
>> Thank you for your insight!
>> Peter
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Tubus Log EVO on a 650B Platypus

[Mr. Ray]

Tubus Logo rear rack is a great rear rack for short/normal chainstay's 
because the pannier rails sit further back.  Platypus has long chainstays 
so a rack without compensation would be more appropriate.  Logo will fit 
650B.  If not, Tubus sells an accessory rack kit to adjust rack mounting 
points.

On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 1:55:57 PM UTC-4 C Lin wrote:

> Tubus website says it works for 26" and 28" wheels so I assume it should 
> work for 27.5" 650B?
>
>
> Carlos in "usually sunny but less so this winter" So Cal.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Widest fenders that easily fit a Joe Appa?

[Mr. Ray]

Doug, the "long" is 13 cm longer at the front of the fender for ALL sizes.  
To keep the front of the fender from rattling and perhaps cracking 
prematurely over time, you can purchase an extra set of fender stays to 
secure the extended front to a fork stay (i.e. midpoint of fork).  I'm 
using a front rack so the longer front of the fender is attached to the 
rack platform using a fender clip.  Fender coverage is personal so you'll 
have to decide what length works for you.

That said, the Berthoud 650B x 60mm have very good coverage and are 
designed with no front mudflap necessary (think classic French 650B 
Randonneur).  Both front and back fender are slightly longer in length 
compared with Honjo or V.O. fenders in the 650B x 60mm size.  If you don't 
care for such excellent coverage, you can also use the Berthoud 26" x 60mm 
and re-size them to fit 650B.  The 26" x 60mm are readily available in the 
USA (i.e. Peter White and Bens Cycle).  I have never seen the Berthoud 650B 
x 60mm sold anywhere in the USA which is why I purchased direct from 
France. 

On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 8:17:27 AM UTC-5 Doug Van Cleve wrote:

> Alrighty, maybe the correct response was "no U.S. retailers have 650B x 60 
> Berthouds" ;^)  Thanks for the info!  Any thoughts on the long vs. short 
> for a bike that doesn't have a front rack now, but conceivably could in the 
> future?
>
> Doug
>
> On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 6:08 PM Mr. Ray  wrote:
>
>> I bought my Berthoud 60mm x 650b here in stock.  If you have a front 
>> rack, buy the "long version" in the link otherwise buy the "short version":
>>
>>
>> https://berthoudcycles.fr/en/1406-stainless-smooth-fenders-650b-x-60mm-front-long-w-hardware-polished.html?_gl=1*4zzmn0*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTE3NjA2MTg2MS4xNjc4NDEwMzY0*_ga_LLD45P3CY9*MTY3ODQxMDM2NC4xLjEuMTY3ODQxMDM3MS41My4wLjA
>> .
>>
>> They also sell them in black.
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, March 9, 2023 at 5:40:28 PM UTC-5 Doug Van Cleve wrote:
>>
>>> Not so fast, Doug!  Alas, there are no 60mm Berthoud 650B fenders that I 
>>> can find, so it looks like the V-O 58mm wavies are the best easy choice 
>>> after all...
>>>
>>> Doug
>>>
>>> On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 3:36 PM Doug Van Cleve  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks Edwin :^)  These might be my winner, cheaper than anything but 
>>>> on sale V-O and the widest (of the economical options) that will fit 
>>>> without manipulation...
>>>>
>>>> Doug 
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 2:34 PM Edwin W  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Berthoud 60mm (700c) fit my 58cm Joe Appa fine with no manipulation.
>>>>>
>>>>> Edwin 
>>>>>
>>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Widest fenders that easily fit a Joe Appa?

[Mr. Ray]

I bought my Berthoud 60mm x 650b here in stock.  If you have a front rack, 
buy the "long version" in the link otherwise buy the "short version":

https://berthoudcycles.fr/en/1406-stainless-smooth-fenders-650b-x-60mm-front-long-w-hardware-polished.html?_gl=1*4zzmn0*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTE3NjA2MTg2MS4xNjc4NDEwMzY0*_ga_LLD45P3CY9*MTY3ODQxMDM2NC4xLjEuMTY3ODQxMDM3MS41My4wLjA.

They also sell them in black.


On Thursday, March 9, 2023 at 5:40:28 PM UTC-5 Doug Van Cleve wrote:

> Not so fast, Doug!  Alas, there are no 60mm Berthoud 650B fenders that I 
> can find, so it looks like the V-O 58mm wavies are the best easy choice 
> after all...
>
> Doug
>
> On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 3:36 PM Doug Van Cleve  wrote:
>
>> Thanks Edwin :^)  These might be my winner, cheaper than anything but on 
>> sale V-O and the widest (of the economical options) that will fit without 
>> manipulation...
>>
>> Doug 
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 2:34 PM Edwin W  wrote:
>>
>>> Berthoud 60mm (700c) fit my 58cm Joe Appa fine with no manipulation.
>>>
>>> Edwin
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Build - Wish Me Luck!

[Mr. Ray]

from the horses mouth...not necessary:
[image: Screenshot (3435).png]
https://www.rivbike.com/pages/chasing-and-facing-the-scoop

On Saturday, January 21, 2023 at 2:58:46 PM UTC-5 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:

> I have never bothered chasing the bottom bracket threads and haven’t had 
> any issues. I think if they’re well greased and you don’t have a lot of 
> resistance, I don’t see a problem. The counter argument is that it’s cheap 
> and easy to do so you might as well do it right. 
>
> On Sat, Jan 21, 2023 at 11:01 AM Ryan Bolesta  wrote:
>
>> Hi Jake,
>>
>> I’m in a similar position as you with a LimeOlive Sam! I was impatient 
>> for a full bike build from Riv and thought this would be a great 
>> opportunity to learn by building it myself. I’m just waiting on my wheels 
>> to come in later this week and then it’s full steam ahead!
>>
>> I also considered bar-ends when I saw that the mounts were out of stock, 
>> but I was able to find the s2 shifters & thumb mount combos from Blue Lug’s 
>> site!
>>
>> Question for you (or anyone): Are you going to (or is it necessary) to 
>> have the bottom bracket threads chased before installing the BB? Seems to 
>> be differing opinions on whether it's necessary across other posts on the 
>> forum.
>>
>> Best of luck with your build, excited to see how it turns out!
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 1:40:19 PM UTC-7 jak...@me.com wrote:
>>
>>> “Any changes in parts and such while thinking over the build?”
>>>
>>> Reginald - yes, a few!   I switched to bar ends as thumbie mounts were 
>>> temporarily out of stock and I was impatient.  Lots of downstream effects 
>>> from that one.  I originally wanted to go with Ergon cork grips with 
>>> something like a Billie or a Crumworks bar.  I’ll see if the bar-ends on my 
>>> old Albatross and prodigious use of Newbaums works.  It’ll be creative 
>>> (nice word for obviously DIY).  If it’s not comfy, easy enough to make a 
>>> change.
>>>
>>> With the gigantic pedals, I am concerned with toe-to-tire spacing, so am 
>>> holding off on fenders.  Also no decision on racks. Crushed that the Nitto 
>>> Potluck rack is NLA.
>>>
>>> Getting there.  Riv box delivered today, more work this weekend.  
>>> Assuming the Nexave derailer doesn’t derail me, should be finished up and 
>>> ready to ride.  (Whoa that’s a big photo - sorry). 
>>>
>>> Jake
>>>
>>> [image: A00698B8-FA9B-4BE4-8582-253D37FDB4B9.jpeg]
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 1:46:21 AM UTC-5 R. Alexis wrote:
>>>
 Congratulations How exciting when the planning and futzing over the 
 bike and parts finally come together. Any changes in parts and such while 
 thinking over the build? I know when I built the Rivendell Mountain I went 
 back and forth on several items. Thought of doing an 8 speed freewheel, 
 but 
 it seemed much when accounting for the hub set up and scarcity of 8 speed 
 freewheels. Planned on doing a Nitto built Ritchey stem, but going with 
 the 
 Softride suspension stem was a strong pull. 

 Take it slow, don't supper force anything. Take it easy with the 
 hammer! Lol!!!

 Thanks,

 Reginald Alexis

 On Saturday, January 14, 2023 at 9:37:33 AM UTC-6 jak...@me.com wrote:

> I had to say it:  "Just ship it to me".
>
> If Vince knew any better, he would have talked me out of it.I've 
> never built a bike from (mostly) scratch before, and of course it had to 
> be 
> a Riv.  Gutsy.  There may be other less flattering words for it.
>
> Learning from all of you has given me false bravado to forge ahead, so 
> I shall.  Picking parts has been a delight.  I have been embracing the 
> anticipation of arriving shiny bits as  patience will most definitely be 
> virtue.  Just one more box from Riv and I'll have all I need.  I think I 
> have a hammer around here somewhere.
>
> If I blow it, you'll never hear from me again.  If it rolls fast and 
> true, I will post a glorious, victorious photo from Flatistan, FL.
>
> See any parts you like?  Wish me luck!
>
> #goheavyontheboeshield
>
> [image: Sam Parts.jpg]
>
>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] bottom bracket toubleshooting trivia

[Mr. Ray]

Don't worry.  Your "new" UN91 bb's are likely over 15 years or older since 
leaving the Shimano factory.  The grease inside has probably changed 
viscosity due to non-use.  Cartridge bb's don't usually require a "ream and 
face" of the bb shell so if the cups are torqued to spec just attach cranks 
and ride.  The spindle should spin smoothly after breaking in.  My last 
UN91 wasn't torqued to spec and lasted over 30,000 miles.  I only tossed it 
because I tossed the frame and couldn't get the cups loose easily.

On Sunday, January 15, 2023 at 1:52:56 PM UTC-5 Scott wrote:

> Edit correction to my post, please.
>
> Second sentence of third paragraph of original post should read:
>
> When I turn the spindle by hand it is not smooth (definitely some 
> resistance and a tad sticky)*, unlike* the one I installed in Atlantis or 
> an uninstalled on.
>
>
>
> On Sunday, January 15, 2023 at 11:44:35 AM MST, 'Scott' via RBW Owners 
> Bunch  wrote: 
>
>
> Hey, Bunch:
>
> Pinging the group's knowledge for input/feedback on an issue I'm having 
> with an install of a new cartridge style BB in a new frame.
>
> I'm building a new Atlantis and Gus. I installed a new BB (Shimano XTR 
> UN91) in Atlantis and torqued to spec. It's butterlicious smooth. Installed 
> cranks and gave them a spin. It's what every man, woman, and child wants. 
>
> I installed same BB (also new) in Gus and tightened to spec. When I turn 
> the spindle by hand it is not smooth (definitely some resistance and a tad 
> sticky) like the one I installed in Atlantis or an uninstalled one. Why is 
> that? I checked it before install, and it was butter smooth. I uninstalled 
> it from Gus, and it spins butter smooth. I reinstalled main body section to 
> spec, and it is butter smooth, no change. When I install the opposing cup 
> (Shimano calls it an adapter), at this point is when I begin to notice a 
> notable change in spindle rotation smoothness.
>
> I've ensured proper shell widths. And I've ensured shell/cartridge faces 
> are clean and blemish-free.
>
> Of note, opposing cup spins freely during install for about one third the 
> way to full seat. From there it spins freely part of rotation and not 
> freely otherwise. I can turn it by hand still using splined-tool, but there 
> is definitely resistance during part of the rotation. After I can't go any 
> further by hand, I fully seat with torque wrench.
>
> Could it be that the threads on either side of the shell are not exactly 
> coplanar, since threads are not continuous from one side of shell to the 
> other?
> It shouldn't be a shell facing issue, because the opposing cup doesn't 
> interface with shell face.
>
> Confounding to me. There isn't much to installing a new cartridge style BB 
> into a new frame...screw it in. That's the problem, in part. There's 
> nothing to correct with install technique. I'd love to be wrong and get it 
> butter smooth like one in my Atlantis, for example.
>
> Please, share your thoughts as to what the source of issue may be and 
> recommended remedy!
>
> Scott in (I want it to be spring, summer, and fall) Montana
>
>
>
>
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[RBW] Re: ISO banana connectors (M and F) or small spade connectors

[Mr. Ray]

You can buy the Supernova version (cold crimp).  They cost a bit more but 
are available at Peter White Cycles.  He also has the 2.8mm spade 
connectors.

On Friday, January 13, 2023 at 2:13:29 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Velolumino is still out of the banana connectors, and I'm still looking 
> for 2 pairs (ie, 2X male + female), or ditto for *small* spade connectors 
> -- VL offers 2.8 mm but no male ones: so, 2X 2.8mm spade connectors, male + 
> female.
>
> Happy to pay outrageous unit retail, tho' also happy to pay less.
>
> Or, point me to a source that has either in cheap bulk lots.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell-esq fat bike

[Mr. Ray]

Just find a bike with chainstays that can accommodate 4.5" tires.  Long 
wheelbase is not necessary since the volume of the tires would be your 
"comfort and suspension".

On Thursday, December 15, 2022 at 2:21:16 PM UTC-5 Joe D. wrote:

> Hello Rivendell aficionados! The short version: I’d like some advice on 
> picking a fat bike (4-5” wide tires) that shares similar ride 
> characteristics with the current crop of Rivendell long chainstay-long 
> wheelbase bikes (e.g. Clem, Atlantis, Platy, Gus/Susie).
>
> The long version: I’m in the market for a full-on fat bike, with true 4-5 
> inch wide tires. I live in Montana and my previous winter riding with 
> studded 3 inch tires just wasn’t enough. We’re a one car family, so in 
> addition to riding on winter trails or snowy forest service roads for fun, 
> I’ll use the bike for groceries and errands as well. And as much as I’d 
> love an Atlantis or Platy for dirt roads, bike camping, and light trail 
> use, the more economical choice would be to get a set of 29 inch wheels for 
> a fat bike and run 2.8 or 3 inch tires in non-snow season for an all year 
> off-road bike. Hence the importance of making a good choice now. 
>
> How I came to desire a Rivendell-esq fat bike: A friend in another state 
> got a 2019 Clem and raves about the comfy, stable ride with the long  chain 
> stays/wheelbase. But the real kicker was when I got a Yuba Mundo Lux cargo 
> bike (https://yubabikes.com/cargobikestore/yuba-mundo-lux/) for hauling 
> my two kids around. The swept back bars get me sitting upright, and the 
> crazy long chainstay (753mm) and wheelbase (1410) make 150lb loads totally 
> manageable. It’s like a Cadillac. Since the Yuba, I’ve vowed that all my 
> bikes will be long and upright. Fortunately upright stems and swept back 
> bars can take care of the upright part for near any bike, so that leaves 
> chainstay/wheelbase length as the big question for a fat bike.
>
> For reference, scroll down here (
> https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5d1ae74763bde8001707cf36,5e1faf637f17da00170c6e28,)
>  
> and you can see the chainstay/wheelbase lengths on the Clem and Atlantis, 
> both ~550mm for chainstays and ~1235mm for wheelbase. For fat bikes, 
> consider these two models (
> https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5ff009522655ff0017c6e96a,61c0a2add559210021256cf2,).
>  
> The Wyatt can actually have a longer wheelbase than the Rivendells with its 
> sliding dropouts (1250 max wheelbase). But its chainstay is only 465, still 
> long-ish for mountain bikes but not near what a Riv or cargo bike is. It 
> achieves that with a slack head tube angle that pushes the front tire way 
> out front.
>
> Alternatively, the Giant fat bike in the link has a similar max chainstay 
> length as the Wyatt (460mm) but a shorter wheelbase (1170mm), leading to a 
> more centered position on the bike. I’m unable to find any fat bikes with 
> the combination of long chainstay/wheelbase that the Rivendell’s have.
>
> Any tips on which bike, and which geometry approach in general, would get 
> me closest to the Rivendell/cargo bike-like comfort and ride quality? Other 
> fat bikes? For simplicities sake, I guess don’t evaluate factors other than 
> geometry, like frame material. For what it’s worth, there are very few 
> chromoly fat bikes.
>
> (Sorry for the length! I appreciate anyone getting into such a bike-nerdy 
> discussion)
>
> - Joe
>

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[RBW] Re: New Gus shipping from Canada

[Mr. Ray]

Last time I checked (2019), US has an $800 tax and duty exempt limit for 
purchases made outside the country (i.e. mail order)..  Anything above is 
liable for State taxes however in reality this is rarely enforced.

On Monday, December 12, 2022 at 12:01:23 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Yes, the Gus I found is at a Riv dealer in Canada. Having googled until I 
> cannot stand it anymore I ask; anyone have experience with "clearance" fees 
> associated with importing a bicycle frame from Canada? The closest I have 
> come to uncovering the cost is that items valued under $2,500.00 US are 
> less expensive and easier to do than items over $2,500.00. I started a 
> Bikeflights estimate and I get the shipping cost and a message that 
> clearance fees will be calculated and added to order.

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa Purple Prose

[Mr. Ray]

Question for the frame building experts.  Obviously the damaged frame 
wasn't repaired by replacing the bent tubes with new tubes etc...  So, what 
method was used to straighten the bent tubes and re-align the frame?  Had 
the frame been properly fixed by replacing the damaged tubes from the lugs 
and then repainted (i.e a different color) this thread wouldn't exist. 

On Tuesday, December 6, 2022 at 10:11:31 AM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> I love my Appaloosa and all but the all-caps throttle of WHAT OEN SOLD FOR 
> ON EBAY is too much. All this copy and no build list? 
>
> Matthew, should have said so sooner, but I'm sorry you received a bike in 
> this state and for the agony, annoyance and trauma of having to sort it all 
> out. 
> On Tuesday, December 6, 2022 at 10:08:31 AM UTC-5 Eric Marth wrote:
>
>> Tags: Rumpled, crumpled, dimpled, cracked, caked, bent, indented, 
>> inverted, squiggly, wiggly, touched-up, touch up, mustard, steel is real, 
>> steel is really bent, accident, tire marks, bent, bends, bendy. 
>>
>> It's interesting how the original ad copy raised a flag for several 
>> readers here (myself included) before we knew where this was headed. Thanks 
>> Matthew for sharing images of the bike in its mangled state. 
>>
>> That identifying blemish near the crown of the left fork is the clincher, 
>> as if there were any doubt. 
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 6, 2022 at 3:28:56 AM UTC-5 Luke Hendrickson wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Agreed.
>>> On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 11:43:03 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
 All that purple prose to flip a bike he must have gotten on the cheap, 
 and we got a lecture about how one on Ebay went for $4k so this was a 
 deal! 
 So uncool. 

 On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 9:41:41 PM UTC-8 freem...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I contacted the seller. This bike was put on my radar by a friend who 
> is looking to make his Rivendell dream come true.
>
> The conversation with the seller was kind of weird in my opinion. 
>
> Here's how it went:
>
>
> *Me*:Hey, was the frame in an accident?
>
> **he replies immediately**
>
> *Him: *That’s an interesting first question. Yes, but what prompted 
> you to ask that?
>
> *Me:* There's a thread about your post on the rivendell forum. It's 
> my opinion that you should let folks know straight up on the ad. 
> Especially 
> for the price you're asking.
>
>
> *I stepped away from the computer until now and he sent me the 
> following two messages.*
>
> *Him: *Sure, sounds good. Curious what someone posted. Thx
>
> *Him: *Hi Jon, ok just updated my listing as I agree is totally 
> appropriate and just informed two very interested buyers. I was going to 
> talk about it in person but you’re right it’s really better to put in the 
> listing. It’s hard to tell the seat stay was ever bent. I am very curious 
> what someone posted in the forum and how fair and/or factual what they 
> said 
> is. Is there any way you can forward me the significant part of that 
> thread? I’d really appreciate it. Thx John
>
>
> The above is an unedited transcription of our exchange, and It's 
> interesting to come back to his messages, his ad update (which I didn't 
> read), and then his post deletion. Weird. 
>
> I'm glad my friend didn't end up getting the bike from him. 
>
>
> On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 4:38:55 PM UTC-8 Matthew Williams wrote:
>
>> Someone must have contacted the seller. The ad has been updated:
>>
>> "This bike is overall in great shape with just a few nicks and 
>> scratches but please note that during transport the rear steel seat stay 
>> was bent, but a very reputable local frame builder realigned/bent it 
>> back 
>> and fixed it."
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Dec 5, 2022, at 1:08 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>
>> "A few nicks and scratches from transport and storage.."
>>
>> Well that's one way to put it! 
>>
>> On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 12:18:45 PM UTC-8 Matthew Williams 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Here are some more photos. I couldn't get the fork to lie flat but I 
>>> tried to capture the bent ends.
>>>
>>> With regards to, "how do you know it's the same bike?" Well, I owned 
>>> it. I know it the same way you know your own bike. I recognized it from 
>>> the 
>>> original ad photos from when I bought it, and from when I unpacked it, 
>>> and 
>>> from the build components, and from the touch-up paint on the fork, and 
>>> the 
>>> chainstay wrap, and from the month I stared at it behind my desk while 
>>> I 
>>> waited for BikeFlights to process my claim, and from the seller's 
>>> confirmation he obtained the bike from the non-profit to which I sent 
>>> it.
>>>
>>> 

[RBW] Re: New Bike Day and first ride

[Mr. Ray]

Congratsyour rims look like DT Swiss TK540 (double eyelet) rims with 
the old decals.  The TK540 are really strong rims if wheels were built 
properly.  My set were used for loaded RTW touring for over 20,000 miles 
and were still true when bike was sold.  

On Friday, November 25, 2022 at 3:52:45 PM UTC-5 Tom Palmer wrote:

> Hi all,
> I picked a Mermaid Platypus frameset from a very nice local Riv/Crust fan. 
> Thanks Derek!
> Spent a couple of weeks doing a parts bin build. The only things I bought 
> new were 2 chains because Derek has a Clem Jr to build and needed the one 
> from this frame and a tandem length derailler cable. Was able to get the 
> first ride in today and had fit tweaked within a few miles. I am at the 
> bottom of the fit guide for the big 60cm but Will at Riv confirmed I would 
> be OK. I did get to do quick ride before I purchased so confident it would 
> work well and it does. Very nice first ride, smooth, zippy, and quick 
> handling. Already rethinking the tires- only 700x42 Continental speed 
> Rides. Just thinking bigger since my roads are fairly rough chip seal in 
> general, but want to keep fenders. I will do a second post on how large a 
> tire with fenders. Looking forward to tomorrows ride, it will be longer and 
> more hills. Build list is as follows- steel Albatross bars and steel stem, 
> Ergon grips, Tektro V brake and Avid levers, and Microshift 10 speed bar 
> end shifter shifting Deore derailler. Thompson seat post and Specialized 
> body Geometry saddle from 90's. Alfine single ring crankset. Wheels are 
> pretty nice, DT Swiss 240s hubs and not sure which DT Swiss rims. Fenders 
> are Bontrager meant for 26" tires, but fit well. 
> Planning on front rack that will tame the quick handling a bit, but worth 
> the utility. 
> Tom Palmer
> Twin Lake, MI 
>

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[RBW] Re: Rear Dynamo wiring pics / examples? non-fender

[Mr. Ray]

Good post with pictures.  The Velo Lumino banana plugs are a great deal but 
require soldering.  For anyone who doesn't have the means to solder, 
Supernova sells the same which you can "cold crimp".  I'm using the 
Supernova plugs but they can be overkill (and long).  If you just want the 
flexibility to disconnect the tail light under the seat, another option is 
to use Schmidt 2.8mm male & female connectors.  Peter White sells these for 
around .30 cents a piece.  He also sells the Supernova connectors for $16.  

https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/wiringinstructions.php

If you're dead set to mount a tail light on the seatpost, you can by pass 
the light bracket by using the SON tail light for seat post mount version.

[image: Screenshot (3215).jpg]


On Wednesday, November 23, 2022 at 1:45:02 PM UTC-5 brizbarn wrote:

> I checked on my Appaloosa for a drain hole on under side of bottom bracket 
> shell, it does have one that a wire could likely fit through.  So I'll 
> probably try that set up at some point:  Wire going from front light on 
> front rack > coiled to add flexibility from rack to downtube > run parallel 
> to shift cable to bottom bracket > into drain hole in BB > up seat tube and 
> seat post > out a hole in seat post > rear dynamo light mounted on Blue Lug 
> Bracket on saddle rail (hopefully does not get hidden when saddle bag on 
> bike) and probably use some banana plugs to make it detachable.  Maybe try 
> going up fork drain hole too, like is being discussed in another thread.
>
> Some good ideas here, thanks for sharing everyone.  I like that Blue Lug 
> bracket for saddle rail mounting, but it is sold out.  Looks like Velo 
> Lumino sells one as well, but for a lot more $. Velo Lumino 
>  also has some nice photos of wiring 
> on their site, nothing Riv specific tho. screen shot from them:
>
> [image: Screen Shot 2022-11-23 at 10.10.41 AM.jpg]
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: IRD Brake Lever Set Cafam-S vs. Paul Canti levers

[Mr. Ray]

I have Paul's Canti levers and was looking at the IRD Cafam levers last 
night (Soma is having 30% off sale).  To my eye, the Cafam look the same 
sans the Paul logo and Paul's groovy barrel adjusters.  Like the Paul 
levers, the Cafam have sealed bearings and are aluminum.  For the price 
(with discount) the IRD levers are an exceptional value.  If I didn't 
already have Paul levers, I would buy the IRD levers.

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 8:05:33 PM UTC-5 BobW wrote:

> I'm looking at the *IRD Brake Lever Set Cafam-S * 
> 
>  for 
> a conversion from drops to swept back bars.  I originally was considering 
> the Paul Canti levers, which get great reviews.  Does anyone have any 
> insights on the IRD Canfam's in comparison to the Pauls??
> I think they both have bearing pivots .  
>
> thanks!!
>

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[RBW] Re: Seeking Advice - Shimano 9 Speed Downtube Shifters

[Mr. Ray]

Keith, the Dura Ace bar end shifters bolt right on and look identical BUT 
the rear shifter pods are different.  The rear bar end shifters cable track 
begins further away from the shifter cable vs a down tube shifter pod.  
What this means is after the 5th or 6th gear, the shifter cable is no 
longer guided by the groove.  If one is handy with a Dremel or file, you 
could extend the groove closer to where the shifter cable enters the pod. 


On Wednesday, October 12, 2022 at 2:11:59 AM UTC-4 iamkeith wrote:

>
> I was first going to say  what mr ray did:  I'm happy with the quality of 
> the microshift shifters that I have.  They're thumbie mounts, but the lever 
> shape really seems to be intended as bar ends, so they probably work ok in 
> downtube mode too.  Easiiest thing though would just be to get dura ace bar 
> end shifter from Rivendell.  They're in stock and bolt right on as downtube 
> shifters.
> On Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 9:39:21 PM UTC-6 cz...@sonic.net wrote:
>
>> Hi Keith -
>>
>> I've ruled out 10 and 11 speed as I want to be able to swap wheels 
>> between bikes and have several bikes with 9 speed setups.
>>
>> And I don't care if I have a friction option. Not sure how that impacts 
>> things unless I was interested in brifters (which I am not).
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>> Corwin
>> On Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 6:18:13 PM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:
>>
>>> Just thinking out loud and clarifying before I suggest something wrong:
>>>
>>> If you use 10 speed shifters and want indexing, you'd have to use the 
>>> alternate cable attachment hack, right?
>>>
>>> 9 speed era and later, the dura ace cable pull was the same as other 
>>> shimano products, so you don't necessarily "need" dura ace, right?
>>>
>>> You don't care if you have a friction option, right?
>>>
>>> You've ruled out 10 or 11 speed altogether?  I understand if you have.  
>>> I kerp doing the same thing but, honestly, it's often easier and cheaper to 
>>> find good 10 and 11 speed stuff these days.  It's just not as pretty.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 5:34:43 PM UTC-6 cz...@sonic.net wrote:
>>>
>>>> Greetings -
>>>>
>>>> About 18 months ago, my house was burglarized. Among the items stolen 
>>>> was my Rivendell custom. I am now trying to replace the custom. The frame 
>>>> is now at Joe Bell's waiting for paint.
>>>>
>>>> I have been trying to find Shimano 9 speed downtube shift levers for a 
>>>> while. I missed out on a couple huge batches offered on EBay. I have seen 
>>>> three options recently:
>>>>
>>>> 1) A set of Dura Ace 9 speed downtube levers mated to Paul thumbies on 
>>>> EBay for 150 GBP. This seems like a potential win. Buy the levers 
>>>> (possibly 
>>>> at something below the asking price), sell the Paul Thumbies and come out 
>>>> with a considerable savings.
>>>>
>>>> 2) There is a set of Dura Ace 9 speed downtube shifters in Albuquerque 
>>>> for sale at $160. The shop will only deliver locally. I am willing to pay 
>>>> someone local to the shop to facilitate delivery and send the shifters to 
>>>> me.
>>>>
>>>> 3) Use Dura Ace 7900 10 speed downtube shifters in place of the 7700 9 
>>>> speed. According to Sheldon (AASHTA), Dura Ace 10 speed will shift 9 speed 
>>>> fine.
>>>>
>>>> A few criteria of interest ... I already have a set of Shimano 9 speed 
>>>> bar ends slated for another bike. Not interested in putting them on the 
>>>> custom. I do indexed only, and I don't do brifters. I have several 
>>>> wheelsets with 9 speed cassettes and associated [rapid rise] derailers for 
>>>> the custom and on other bikes.
>>>>
>>>> I am concerned about the following: Will the Paul Thumbie/Shimano 
>>>> downtube lever combo have sufficient parts for install as downtube levers 
>>>> on the custom? Will the thumbie combo have sufficient parts to be able to 
>>>> sell to someone who wants Paul Thumbies? Will the 10 speed levers throw 
>>>> the 
>>>> chain off the smallest cog (given I am using rapid rise with a 9 speed 
>>>> cassette)?
>>>>
>>>> Which is the best option? The 10 speed downtube levers appear to be 
>>>> available for approximately $80 sans tax and shipping.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks in advance for your opinions, advice, etc.
>>>>
>>>> Regards,
>>>>
>>>> Corwin
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Seeking Advice - Shimano 9 Speed Downtube Shifters

[Mr. Ray]

I was not able to locate 9 spd Shimano DS so I bought Microshift 9 spd DS 
instead.  Like you, I only require index shifting and having used them for 
over 3000 miles, the Microshift have worked very very well.  They are also 
cheaper than Dura Ace.

https://www.microshift.com/models/sl-d09/

   

On Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 7:34:43 PM UTC-4 cz...@sonic.net wrote:

> Greetings -
>
> About 18 months ago, my house was burglarized. Among the items stolen was 
> my Rivendell custom. I am now trying to replace the custom. The frame is 
> now at Joe Bell's waiting for paint.
>
> I have been trying to find Shimano 9 speed downtube shift levers for a 
> while. I missed out on a couple huge batches offered on EBay. I have seen 
> three options recently:
>
> 1) A set of Dura Ace 9 speed downtube levers mated to Paul thumbies on 
> EBay for 150 GBP. This seems like a potential win. Buy the levers (possibly 
> at something below the asking price), sell the Paul Thumbies and come out 
> with a considerable savings.
>
> 2) There is a set of Dura Ace 9 speed downtube shifters in Albuquerque for 
> sale at $160. The shop will only deliver locally. I am willing to pay 
> someone local to the shop to facilitate delivery and send the shifters to 
> me.
>
> 3) Use Dura Ace 7900 10 speed downtube shifters in place of the 7700 9 
> speed. According to Sheldon (AASHTA), Dura Ace 10 speed will shift 9 speed 
> fine.
>
> A few criteria of interest ... I already have a set of Shimano 9 speed bar 
> ends slated for another bike. Not interested in putting them on the custom. 
> I do indexed only, and I don't do brifters. I have several wheelsets with 9 
> speed cassettes and associated [rapid rise] derailers for the custom and on 
> other bikes.
>
> I am concerned about the following: Will the Paul Thumbie/Shimano downtube 
> lever combo have sufficient parts for install as downtube levers on the 
> custom? Will the thumbie combo have sufficient parts to be able to sell to 
> someone who wants Paul Thumbies? Will the 10 speed levers throw the chain 
> off the smallest cog (given I am using rapid rise with a 9 speed cassette)?
>
> Which is the best option? The 10 speed downtube levers appear to be 
> available for approximately $80 sans tax and shipping.
>
> Thanks in advance for your opinions, advice, etc.
>
> Regards,
>
> Corwin
>

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Re: [RBW] F.S: Busch & Muller handlebar bracket for head light

[Mr. Ray]

Removed from sale...

On Monday, August 8, 2022 at 6:12:28 PM UTC-4 peter...@gmail.com wrote:

> FYI: That's not a Busch & Müller mount. It's a Reise & Müller mount. It's 
> no longer made as the maximum diameter handlebar it will fit is 26.0mm, and 
> that size is no longer offered on most bikes as the manufacturers, in 
> their infinite wisdom, are all pushing huge handlebar diameters. They're 
> perhaps hoping that cyclists with those older, skinny handlebars will buy 
> new bikes with fat handlebars. The idea being that if they do, nobody will 
> laugh at them. Sigh...
>
> On Mon, Aug 8, 2022 at 5:21 PM Mr. Ray  wrote:
>
>> Used Busch & Muller Light Bracket for Handlebar Mounted Dynamo 
>> Headlight.  Brief description by Peter White Cycles:
>>
>> https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/light-mounts.php
>>
>> It's for sale at SJS Cycles in the UK:
>>
>>
>> https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lighting-spares/busch-muller-light-bracket-for-handlebar-mounted-dynamo-headlight/?geoc=CA
>>
>> Asking $15 USD (net to me).  Shipping included (no tracking).
>>
>> [image: Busch and Muller.jpg]
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/942dc419-3fc9-4c13-ad2d-6aaf6f8e7ad8n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/942dc419-3fc9-4c13-ad2d-6aaf6f8e7ad8n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
> Peter White
>

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Re: [RBW] F.S: Busch & Muller handlebar bracket for head light

[Mr. Ray]

SOLD pending payment.

On Monday, August 8, 2022 at 6:53:06 PM UTC-4 Mr. Ray wrote:

> Thanks for the clarification Peter
>
> On Monday, August 8, 2022 at 6:12:28 PM UTC-4 peter...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> FYI: That's not a Busch & Müller mount. It's a Reise & Müller mount. It's 
>> no longer made as the maximum diameter handlebar it will fit is 26.0mm, and 
>> that size is no longer offered on most bikes as the manufacturers, in 
>> their infinite wisdom, are all pushing huge handlebar diameters. They're 
>> perhaps hoping that cyclists with those older, skinny handlebars will buy 
>> new bikes with fat handlebars. The idea being that if they do, nobody will 
>> laugh at them. Sigh...
>>
>> On Mon, Aug 8, 2022 at 5:21 PM Mr. Ray  wrote:
>>
>>> Used Busch & Muller Light Bracket for Handlebar Mounted Dynamo 
>>> Headlight.  Brief description by Peter White Cycles:
>>>
>>> https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/light-mounts.php
>>>
>>> It's for sale at SJS Cycles in the UK:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lighting-spares/busch-muller-light-bracket-for-handlebar-mounted-dynamo-headlight/?geoc=CA
>>>
>>> Asking $15 USD (net to me).  Shipping included (no tracking).
>>>
>>> [image: Busch and Muller.jpg]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/942dc419-3fc9-4c13-ad2d-6aaf6f8e7ad8n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/942dc419-3fc9-4c13-ad2d-6aaf6f8e7ad8n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Peter White
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] F.S: Busch & Muller handlebar bracket for head light

[Mr. Ray]

Thanks for the clarification Peter

On Monday, August 8, 2022 at 6:12:28 PM UTC-4 peter...@gmail.com wrote:

> FYI: That's not a Busch & Müller mount. It's a Reise & Müller mount. It's 
> no longer made as the maximum diameter handlebar it will fit is 26.0mm, and 
> that size is no longer offered on most bikes as the manufacturers, in 
> their infinite wisdom, are all pushing huge handlebar diameters. They're 
> perhaps hoping that cyclists with those older, skinny handlebars will buy 
> new bikes with fat handlebars. The idea being that if they do, nobody will 
> laugh at them. Sigh...
>
> On Mon, Aug 8, 2022 at 5:21 PM Mr. Ray  wrote:
>
>> Used Busch & Muller Light Bracket for Handlebar Mounted Dynamo 
>> Headlight.  Brief description by Peter White Cycles:
>>
>> https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/light-mounts.php
>>
>> It's for sale at SJS Cycles in the UK:
>>
>>
>> https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lighting-spares/busch-muller-light-bracket-for-handlebar-mounted-dynamo-headlight/?geoc=CA
>>
>> Asking $15 USD (net to me).  Shipping included (no tracking).
>>
>> [image: Busch and Muller.jpg]
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/942dc419-3fc9-4c13-ad2d-6aaf6f8e7ad8n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/942dc419-3fc9-4c13-ad2d-6aaf6f8e7ad8n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
> Peter White
>

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Re: [RBW] F.S: Nitto Bosco handle bar, Brooks B68 saddle, shifter and bar end mounts...

[Mr. Ray]

B68 saddle SOLD.

On Saturday, August 6, 2022 at 10:28:58 PM UTC-4 Mr. Ray wrote:

> Bosco bars SOLD.
>
> On Saturday, August 6, 2022 at 8:21:27 PM UTC-4 Mr. Ray wrote:
>
>> The B68 has most likely been spoken for.  If things change I will update.
>>
>> Otherwise everything else is still for sale..Bosco handlebar inlcuded.
>>
>> On Saturday, August 6, 2022 at 6:41:44 PM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Are the Bosço bar still available?
>>> Jon
>>>
>>> On Sat, Aug 6, 2022, 10:20 AM Mr. Ray  wrote:
>>>
>>>> All items purchased new.  Tried upright riding for a season but prefer 
>>>> a more aggressive stance.  Handlebars have usual rub marks from install 
>>>> and 
>>>> use.  Saddle has faint sit bone marks (I''m 160 lbs).  Brooks saddle cream 
>>>> applied since new.  Sunrace M90 thumb shifter (9sp indexed) looks and 
>>>> functions like new.  Thumb shifter can be mounted right (outer) or left 
>>>> (inner).  Microshift bar end shifter mounts (road pull) are unused.  
>>>>
>>>> Bosco's currently "sold out" at Riv Bikes:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-bosco-bar-cromo-dullbrite-55cm-x-25-4-16240?variant=28423605005
>>>>
>>>> Brooks B68 saddles are discontinued.  The B68 has the same real estate 
>>>> as the B67 but without the springs so weighs much less.
>>>>
>>>> https://www.brooksengland.com/en_us/b67.html
>>>>
>>>> Sunrace M90 shifter:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/sunrace-one-at-a-time-thumb-shifter-right-side
>>>>
>>>> Microshift barend mounts:
>>>>
>>>> https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=102082
>>>>
>>>> [image: Bosco.jpg]
>>>> [image: Brooks B68.jpg]
>>>> [image: Sunrace m90.jpg]
>>>> [image: microshift bar end shifter mounts.jpg]
>>>> Asking (net to me) $100 USD for the handlebars, $120 USD for the 
>>>> saddle, $25 for shifter and $20 for bar end mounts  plus "actual shipping 
>>>> costs".  Apologies for not including shipping costs but finding the 
>>>> cheapest shipping is best done knowing where to ship.  Paypal only.  
>>>> Thanks 
>>>> and feel free to ask questions.
>>>>
>>>> Ray
>>>>
>>>> -- 
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/a00c7a4d-c0c5-4ea9-9d82-497c715d074cn%40googlegroups.com
>>>>  
>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/a00c7a4d-c0c5-4ea9-9d82-497c715d074cn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>>> .
>>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] F.S: Nitto Bosco handle bar, Brooks B68 saddle, shifter and bar end mounts...

[Mr. Ray]

Bosco bars SOLD.

On Saturday, August 6, 2022 at 8:21:27 PM UTC-4 Mr. Ray wrote:

> The B68 has most likely been spoken for.  If things change I will update.
>
> Otherwise everything else is still for sale..Bosco handlebar inlcuded.
>
> On Saturday, August 6, 2022 at 6:41:44 PM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Are the Bosço bar still available?
>> Jon
>>
>> On Sat, Aug 6, 2022, 10:20 AM Mr. Ray  wrote:
>>
>>> All items purchased new.  Tried upright riding for a season but prefer a 
>>> more aggressive stance.  Handlebars have usual rub marks from install and 
>>> use.  Saddle has faint sit bone marks (I''m 160 lbs).  Brooks saddle cream 
>>> applied since new.  Sunrace M90 thumb shifter (9sp indexed) looks and 
>>> functions like new.  Thumb shifter can be mounted right (outer) or left 
>>> (inner).  Microshift bar end shifter mounts (road pull) are unused.  
>>>
>>> Bosco's currently "sold out" at Riv Bikes:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-bosco-bar-cromo-dullbrite-55cm-x-25-4-16240?variant=28423605005
>>>
>>> Brooks B68 saddles are discontinued.  The B68 has the same real estate 
>>> as the B67 but without the springs so weighs much less.
>>>
>>> https://www.brooksengland.com/en_us/b67.html
>>>
>>> Sunrace M90 shifter:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/sunrace-one-at-a-time-thumb-shifter-right-side
>>>
>>> Microshift barend mounts:
>>>
>>> https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=102082
>>>
>>> [image: Bosco.jpg]
>>> [image: Brooks B68.jpg]
>>> [image: Sunrace m90.jpg]
>>> [image: microshift bar end shifter mounts.jpg]
>>> Asking (net to me) $100 USD for the handlebars, $120 USD for the saddle, 
>>> $25 for shifter and $20 for bar end mounts  plus "actual shipping costs".  
>>> Apologies for not including shipping costs but finding the cheapest 
>>> shipping is best done knowing where to ship.  Paypal only.  Thanks and feel 
>>> free to ask questions.
>>>
>>> Ray
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/a00c7a4d-c0c5-4ea9-9d82-497c715d074cn%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/a00c7a4d-c0c5-4ea9-9d82-497c715d074cn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] F.S: Nitto Bosco handle bar, Brooks B68 saddle, shifter and bar end mounts...

[Mr. Ray]

Bosco handlebar is SOLD to Jon above.  

On Saturday, August 6, 2022 at 8:21:27 PM UTC-4 Mr. Ray wrote:

> The B68 has most likely been spoken for.  If things change I will update.
>
> Otherwise everything else is still for sale..Bosco handlebar inlcuded.
>
> On Saturday, August 6, 2022 at 6:41:44 PM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Are the Bosço bar still available?
>> Jon
>>
>> On Sat, Aug 6, 2022, 10:20 AM Mr. Ray  wrote:
>>
>>> All items purchased new.  Tried upright riding for a season but prefer a 
>>> more aggressive stance.  Handlebars have usual rub marks from install and 
>>> use.  Saddle has faint sit bone marks (I''m 160 lbs).  Brooks saddle cream 
>>> applied since new.  Sunrace M90 thumb shifter (9sp indexed) looks and 
>>> functions like new.  Thumb shifter can be mounted right (outer) or left 
>>> (inner).  Microshift bar end shifter mounts (road pull) are unused.  
>>>
>>> Bosco's currently "sold out" at Riv Bikes:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-bosco-bar-cromo-dullbrite-55cm-x-25-4-16240?variant=28423605005
>>>
>>> Brooks B68 saddles are discontinued.  The B68 has the same real estate 
>>> as the B67 but without the springs so weighs much less.
>>>
>>> https://www.brooksengland.com/en_us/b67.html
>>>
>>> Sunrace M90 shifter:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/sunrace-one-at-a-time-thumb-shifter-right-side
>>>
>>> Microshift barend mounts:
>>>
>>> https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=102082
>>>
>>> [image: Bosco.jpg]
>>> [image: Brooks B68.jpg]
>>> [image: Sunrace m90.jpg]
>>> [image: microshift bar end shifter mounts.jpg]
>>> Asking (net to me) $100 USD for the handlebars, $120 USD for the saddle, 
>>> $25 for shifter and $20 for bar end mounts  plus "actual shipping costs".  
>>> Apologies for not including shipping costs but finding the cheapest 
>>> shipping is best done knowing where to ship.  Paypal only.  Thanks and feel 
>>> free to ask questions.
>>>
>>> Ray
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/a00c7a4d-c0c5-4ea9-9d82-497c715d074cn%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/a00c7a4d-c0c5-4ea9-9d82-497c715d074cn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] F.S: Nitto Bosco handle bar, Brooks B68 saddle, shifter and bar end mounts...

[Mr. Ray]

The B68 has most likely been spoken for.  If things change I will update.

Otherwise everything else is still for sale..Bosco handlebar inlcuded.

On Saturday, August 6, 2022 at 6:41:44 PM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:

> Are the Bosço bar still available?
> Jon
>
> On Sat, Aug 6, 2022, 10:20 AM Mr. Ray  wrote:
>
>> All items purchased new.  Tried upright riding for a season but prefer a 
>> more aggressive stance.  Handlebars have usual rub marks from install and 
>> use.  Saddle has faint sit bone marks (I''m 160 lbs).  Brooks saddle cream 
>> applied since new.  Sunrace M90 thumb shifter (9sp indexed) looks and 
>> functions like new.  Thumb shifter can be mounted right (outer) or left 
>> (inner).  Microshift bar end shifter mounts (road pull) are unused.  
>>
>> Bosco's currently "sold out" at Riv Bikes:
>>
>>
>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-bosco-bar-cromo-dullbrite-55cm-x-25-4-16240?variant=28423605005
>>
>> Brooks B68 saddles are discontinued.  The B68 has the same real estate as 
>> the B67 but without the springs so weighs much less.
>>
>> https://www.brooksengland.com/en_us/b67.html
>>
>> Sunrace M90 shifter:
>>
>>
>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/sunrace-one-at-a-time-thumb-shifter-right-side
>>
>> Microshift barend mounts:
>>
>> https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=102082
>>
>> [image: Bosco.jpg]
>> [image: Brooks B68.jpg]
>> [image: Sunrace m90.jpg]
>> [image: microshift bar end shifter mounts.jpg]
>> Asking (net to me) $100 USD for the handlebars, $120 USD for the saddle, 
>> $25 for shifter and $20 for bar end mounts  plus "actual shipping costs".  
>> Apologies for not including shipping costs but finding the cheapest 
>> shipping is best done knowing where to ship.  Paypal only.  Thanks and feel 
>> free to ask questions.
>>
>> Ray
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/a00c7a4d-c0c5-4ea9-9d82-497c715d074cn%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/a00c7a4d-c0c5-4ea9-9d82-497c715d074cn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: F.S: Nitto Bosco handle bar, Brooks B68 saddle, shifter and bar end mounts...

[Mr. Ray]

Bosco handlebars are 580mm aluminum heat treated version.

On Saturday, August 6, 2022 at 12:20:02 PM UTC-4 Mr. Ray wrote:

> All items purchased new.  Tried upright riding for a season but prefer a 
> more aggressive stance.  Handlebars have usual rub marks from install and 
> use.  Saddle has faint sit bone marks (I''m 160 lbs).  Brooks saddle cream 
> applied since new.  Sunrace M90 thumb shifter (9sp indexed) looks and 
> functions like new.  Thumb shifter can be mounted right (outer) or left 
> (inner).  Microshift bar end shifter mounts (road pull) are unused.  
>
> Bosco's currently "sold out" at Riv Bikes:
>
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-bosco-bar-cromo-dullbrite-55cm-x-25-4-16240?variant=28423605005
>
> Brooks B68 saddles are discontinued.  The B68 has the same real estate as 
> the B67 but without the springs so weighs much less.
>
> https://www.brooksengland.com/en_us/b67.html
>
> Sunrace M90 shifter:
>
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/products/sunrace-one-at-a-time-thumb-shifter-right-side
>
> Microshift barend mounts:
>
> https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=102082
>
> [image: Bosco.jpg]
> [image: Brooks B68.jpg]
> [image: Sunrace m90.jpg]
> [image: microshift bar end shifter mounts.jpg]
> Asking (net to me) $100 USD for the handlebars, $120 USD for the saddle, 
> $25 for shifter and $20 for bar end mounts  plus "actual shipping costs".  
> Apologies for not including shipping costs but finding the cheapest 
> shipping is best done knowing where to ship.  Paypal only.  Thanks and feel 
> free to ask questions.
>
> Ray
>

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[RBW] Re: 2 Piece Silver cranksets

[Mr. Ray]

Denis, glad you got it sorted out.  Not to add to the confusion but a 
German company also makes an eccentric BB for standard bb shells.  I 
believe they were first out with this product before Phil Woods:

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/bottom-brackets/trickstuff-excentriker/?geoc=CA

On Saturday, May 28, 2022 at 1:35:55 PM UTC-4 Artaud wrote:

> Thanks Ray,
> I did give them a call, and it is indeed a 24mm spindle, if anyone else 
> was wondering. Order placed, all is well.
>
> Denis, in NC
>
> Le samedi 28 mai 2022 à 12:56:39 UTC-4, Ray Varella a écrit :
>
>> Hey Denis,
>> They are open today, they open in about 5 minutes. 
>> Try giving them a call. Everyone who works there is super helpful. 
>>
>> Ray
>>
>> On Saturday, May 28, 2022 at 9:54:12 AM UTC-7 Artaud wrote:
>>
>>> I should have specified that this was for a single speed setup — I'd 
>>> only keep the 32t chainring. I already have the bottom bracket and, paired 
>>> with an XTR double crank set up with a single chainring, it works well. 
>>> What I'm trying to determine, and couldn't find anywhere, is the diameter 
>>> of the Silver spindle: is it 24mm (great!), 30mm (boo...) or some other 
>>> ungodly standard?
>>>
>>> Denis, in NC
>>>
>>> Le samedi 28 mai 2022 à 12:01:02 UTC-4, Mr. Ray a écrit :
>>>
>>>> According to Phil Woods:
>>>>
>>>>   "TYPE OF CRANK THAT CAN BE USED: Outboard 24 mm spindle, *single 
>>>> chainring type* with a 0-millimeter offset or a zero-degree offset on 
>>>> crankarm or direct mount spider. Designed for half link".  
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, May 28, 2022 at 10:51:08 AM UTC-4 Artaud wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hello Bunch,
>>>>> Has anyone tried the recently restocked 2 Piece cranksets 
>>>>> <https://www.rivbike.com/products/crank-silver-external-low-low-double-steel-34x24-with-guard>?
>>>>>  
>>>>> More importantly, does anyone know the spindle diameter? I'm hoping that 
>>>>> it 
>>>>> would be compatible with a Shimano-size Philcentric BB 
>>>>> <https://phil-wood-co.myshopify.com/collections/outboard-bottom-bracket/products/philcentric>
>>>>> .
>>>>> I sent Riv an email, but with the long weekend and the limited number 
>>>>> of cranks restocked, I'm afraid they'll sell out before I hear back. And 
>>>>> I'd rather not wait another two years for them to be back in stock.
>>>>>
>>>>> Denis, in NC
>>>>>
>>>>

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[RBW] Re: 2 Piece Silver cranksets

[Mr. Ray]

According to Phil Woods:

  "TYPE OF CRANK THAT CAN BE USED: Outboard 24 mm spindle, *single 
chainring type* with a 0-millimeter offset or a zero-degree offset on 
crankarm or direct mount spider. Designed for half link".  

On Saturday, May 28, 2022 at 10:51:08 AM UTC-4 Artaud wrote:

> Hello Bunch,
> Has anyone tried the recently restocked 2 Piece cranksets 
> ?
>  
> More importantly, does anyone know the spindle diameter? I'm hoping that it 
> would be compatible with a Shimano-size Philcentric BB 
> 
> .
> I sent Riv an email, but with the long weekend and the limited number of 
> cranks restocked, I'm afraid they'll sell out before I hear back. And I'd 
> rather not wait another two years for them to be back in stock.
>
> Denis, in NC
>

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[RBW] Re: 2 Piece Silver cranksets

[Mr. Ray]

According the Phil Woods:

  "TYPE OF CRANK THAT CAN BE USED: Outboard 24 mm spindle,* single 
chainring type *with a 0-millimeter offset or a zero-degree offset on 
crankarm or direct mount spider. Designed for half link".  

On Saturday, May 28, 2022 at 10:51:08 AM UTC-4 Artaud wrote:

> Hello Bunch,
> Has anyone tried the recently restocked 2 Piece cranksets 
> ?
>  
> More importantly, does anyone know the spindle diameter? I'm hoping that it 
> would be compatible with a Shimano-size Philcentric BB 
> 
> .
> I sent Riv an email, but with the long weekend and the limited number of 
> cranks restocked, I'm afraid they'll sell out before I hear back. And I'd 
> rather not wait another two years for them to be back in stock.
>
> Denis, in NC
>

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[RBW] Re: Susie front load

[Mr. Ray]

Ideally, the center of the front panniers should sit as close to the center 
of the front wheel axle as possible.  This provides the most predictable 
handling.  Two issues with the Pass and Stowe front rack are the panniers 
sit higher than a traditional "low rider" and the rack is a bit too far 
forward which means the center of the panniers is in front of the front 
wheel axle.  

On Wednesday, May 11, 2022 at 5:21:40 PM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com wrote:

> Tim,
>
> Thanks for the the confidence that I will be happy with the front rack! If 
> my bike was as loaded as yours, it would be just about everything I own! 
> Haha. Great looking bike!
>
> On Wednesday, May 11, 2022 at 11:00:09 AM UTC-7 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
> wrote:
>
>> And every barking slappy drops grams! Nice rig.
>> -Kai
>>
>> On Wednesday, May 11, 2022 at 12:16:23 PM UTC-4 Tim Baldwin wrote:
>>
>>> This is the exact setup I have on my Susie. The Pass and Stow is 
>>> excellent for use with panniers and a basket or just the platform. Here's 
>>> my setup I used for a long trip last summer. I would say the bike handles 
>>> best with weight balanced front and rear. Somewhere in the 60/40 or 65/35 
>>> range is great. The large saddlebag is an ideal counterweight. If you're 
>>> not toting a skateboard around on your trips, it's very easy to get a good 
>>> weight distribution with this setup. Without the panniers, the same setup 
>>> makes for a great commute bike.
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, May 11, 2022 at 10:37:07 AM UTC-5 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 I’m interested in this as well. I think a good part of it comes down to 
 handling preferences. Some have said it handles great with a front load 
 and 
 others said it was terrible. I picked up a Pass and Stow rack for my 
 Susie. 
 I plan to use panniers more than the flat rack but that will depend on 
 handling. Can’t wait to get this frame and put it together to find out!

 On Tuesday, May 10, 2022 at 2:47:31 PM UTC-7 Sam Perez wrote:

> Any one have experience front loading a Susie for camping. I like 
> keeping an eye on my stuff. Was thinking of a basket and two panniers up 
> front as a set up. 
> Sent from my iPhone



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[RBW] Re: For Sale: New Gilles Berthoud leather mud flaps (front and rear) - black

[Mr. Ray]

SOLD.


On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 10:38:03 PM UTC-4 Mr. Ray wrote:

> Tentatively "sold" to member from Calgary, Canada pending payment.  
>
> On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 5:47:10 PM UTC-4 Mr. Ray wrote:
>
>> This is the newest version of GB mud flaps.  Same leather as their seats 
>> (5mm).  This longer version provides better coverage than the previous 
>> version.  Sells for $30 USD each.  Asking $50 shipped (front and rear) 
>> anywhere in Canada or the lower 48.
>>
>> Paypal F or add 4% to cover costs.  Depending on your location, I may 
>> need to ship without tracking.  We will discuss if you are buying.
>>
>> [image: Berthoud mud flaps.jpg]
>>
>> https://berthoudcycles.fr/en/642-front-rear-leather-mud-flaps.html
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: For Sale: New Gilles Berthoud leather mud flaps (front and rear) - black

[Mr. Ray]

Tentatively "sold" to member from Calgary, Canada pending payment.  

On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 5:47:10 PM UTC-4 Mr. Ray wrote:

> This is the newest version of GB mud flaps.  Same leather as their seats 
> (5mm).  This longer version provides better coverage than the previous 
> version.  Sells for $30 USD each.  Asking $50 shipped (front and rear) 
> anywhere in Canada or the lower 48.
>
> Paypal F or add 4% to cover costs.  Depending on your location, I may 
> need to ship without tracking.  We will discuss if you are buying.
>
> [image: Berthoud mud flaps.jpg]
>
> https://berthoudcycles.fr/en/642-front-rear-leather-mud-flaps.html
>
> Thanks.
>

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Re: [RBW] Buzzy hubs, hipster or window rattling?

[Mr. Ray]

Rohloff hubs use 25 ml of Rohloff oil.  The oil acts as a lubricant and 
also a sound dampner especially when the internal gears are new.  Sometimes 
oil leaks out (sweat oil or laying the hub cog side down).  This is normal 
and doesn't mean the hub is damaged so with less oil inside the hub, there 
is more noise.  If you are not sure how much oil is inside your hub then do 
an oil change.  Anyway, once your hub has lots of miles, the noise will be 
gone even when there is less than 25ml in the hub.

 
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 3:19:04 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> My new-to-me Rohloff (I don't think it has many miles on it) seems eerily 
> quiet so it's funny to hear others say they're loud. It has some ticking 
> and buzzes and vibrations in various gears (or coasting) but not very loud 
> and I love all of it. 
>
> I should emphasize I don't HATE my WI hub - it's light and pretty and 
> fabulous - I just thought I'd be more into the freewheeling noise. But it's 
> ok! 
>
> Joe Bernard
>
> On Wednesday, February 9, 2022 at 11:20:52 PM UTC-8 Robert Tilley wrote:
>
>> I definitely don’t have that many miles on them  I’m still less than 
>> 1,000 miles on both of mine. I need to get out more…
>>
>> Robert Tilley
>> San Diego, CA
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Feb 9, 2022, at 10:45 PM, Mr. Ray  wrote:
>>
>> "My Rohloff’s are louder than I like but I put up with it since I like 
>> the hubs".
>>
>>
>>
>> This means you haven't put enough miles on them.  After 20,000 miles, 
>> they are silent.
>> On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 12:09:58 AM UTC-5 Robert Tilley wrote:
>>
>>> I prefer quiet hubs which is why I typically stick to Shimano. You can 
>>> hear them if you try but it’s not overwhelming. It seems like there is no 
>>> mechanical benefit from the extra noise so there is no need for me to 
>>> switch.
>>>
>>> My Rohloff’s are louder than I like but I put up with it since I like 
>>> the hubs.
>>>
>>> Robert a Tilley
>>> San Diego, CA
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Feb 9, 2022, at 7:58 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>>
>>> Just back from a ride on my fancy schmancy custom with its fancy 
>>> schmancy White Industries hubs. Why did I think that loud freewheeling buzz 
>>> was the cool jam?? I feel like I'm on a Harley with straight pipes pissing 
>>> all the neighbors off! What's the verdict around here, are buzzy hubs hip 
>>> and cool and I'm a grouchy old anti-hip and cool person? 
>>>
>>>
>>> Joe "uncool as always" Bernard 
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/450a8152-390e-4311-9281-d70e0525c1adn%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/450a8152-390e-4311-9281-d70e0525c1adn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
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>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/3b472cbd-28ed-4f03-bc8c-960f4c3ee34bn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Buzzy hubs, hipster or window rattling?

[Mr. Ray]

"My Rohloff’s are louder than I like but I put up with it since I like the 
hubs".

This means you haven't put enough miles on them.  After 20,000 miles, they 
are silent.
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 12:09:58 AM UTC-5 Robert Tilley wrote:

> I prefer quiet hubs which is why I typically stick to Shimano. You can 
> hear them if you try but it’s not overwhelming. It seems like there is no 
> mechanical benefit from the extra noise so there is no need for me to 
> switch.
>
> My Rohloff’s are louder than I like but I put up with it since I like the 
> hubs.
>
> Robert a Tilley
> San Diego, CA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 9, 2022, at 7:58 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
> Just back from a ride on my fancy schmancy custom with its fancy schmancy 
> White Industries hubs. Why did I think that loud freewheeling buzz was the 
> cool jam?? I feel like I'm on a Harley with straight pipes pissing all the 
> neighbors off! What's the verdict around here, are buzzy hubs hip and cool 
> and I'm a grouchy old anti-hip and cool person? 
>
>
> Joe "uncool as always" Bernard 
>
> -- 
>
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/450a8152-390e-4311-9281-d70e0525c1adn%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best grocery pannier? Nice lightweight wool cycling "jacket" or full-zip mid-weight jersey?

[Mr. Ray]

Instead of the Tubus Fly rack, you can use a Tubus Logo rack which have 
rails offset and lower which will clear your size 10.  For the bag 
suggestion above, you can replace the hook and bungee system with the 
Ortlieb system you are familiar with.  Ortlieb sells their attachment 
system under "spare parts".
On Wednesday, January 19, 2022 at 6:40:20 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Thanks, Sean; those are more than very nice, they would be perfect, except 
> that I would worry that the hook + bungee attachment system wouldn't allow 
> me to offset the bag sufficiently on the (much modified) Tubus Fly rack. I 
> actually like this simple, old-fashioned system, but but I wonder if it 
> would let me offset the bags sufficiently to clear the heels of my size 10 
> American Freedom Units shoes. (Note! I do not sneer at American Freedom 
> Units of any sort, just the kneejerk nomenclature. I am conservative, but I 
> believe I'm not stupid. I am also flippant and like to quote BSNYC.)
>
> The bike to carry these does have chainstays at least 45 cm from center of 
> bb to mid-dropout; still, I had to offset the Backrollers pretty severely 
> to avoid heel-clip.
>
> Can anyone comment on the matter above?
>
> On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 4:21 PM Sean B.  wrote:
>
>> Suggestion for A: 
>>
>>
>> https://northstbags.com/collections/bike-panniers/products/gladstone-grocery-pannier?variant=39679194562716
>>
>> I've been very happy with all of their bag. 
>>
>> On Wednesday, January 19, 2022 at 4:57:48 PM UTC-6 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> I'm curious if anyone has suggestions for the following that meet 
>>> possibly weird and certainly nit-picky criteria. 
>>>
>>> A. This is largely academic since the old Ortlieb Backrollers serve 
>>> well enough, but I do prefer a flap with Fastek buckle instead of the 
>>> rollup method of closure. So: What is the best grocery pannier, 
>>> defining best by my own criteria, in order of importance: 
>>> 1. Single compartment large enough to swallow a full paper grocery 
>>> sack, and with no interior pockets or dividers of any sort; 
>>> 2. Flap with single buckle. 
>>> 3. As sturdy at least as the Ortliebs, tho' I don't care if it's 
>>> cotton or nylon canvas or tarp material; and I do not need it to be 
>>> waterproof, just water resistant (ie, not a sponge). 
>>> 4. Has attachments with considerable lateral adjustment -- I must 
>>> offset large panniers to the rear on the bike carrying it -- I prefer 
>>> the Ortlieb-type of closure but I'm open to other adjustable systems; 
>>> 5. Comes in red; 
>>> 6. Has a nice convenient outer pocket big enough for a large bunch o' 
>>> keys. 
>>>
>>> Criteria 1 thru 4 are required, # 5 is important, # 6 would be nice. 
>>>
>>> B. On rides like this afternoon's, 48-50 F but cloudy (full sun at 5K+ 
>>> feet is the equivalent of +10*F in air temperature) I like a ls med 
>>> weight wool jersey + a second ls layer, and I've been using a full-zip 
>>> wool jersey bought deliberately large. But the fit isn't as good as it 
>>> might be. So: 
>>>
>>> What is a good LS, full-cut (to fit over a ls wool jersey) medium 
>>> weight wool (*wool* -- it has to breathe) with either a full zip or at 
>>> least a long partial zipper (must be easy to get on over ls jersey), 
>>> rear pockets preferred (I'd happily accept chest pockets, but it must 
>>> have cycling-compatible -- drop bar cycling -- pockets). Red, blue, 
>>> gray, orange, even, even black, but no pastels. 
>>>
>>> Thanks. 
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> --- 
>>> Patrick Moore 
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum 
>>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] WTB: Acorn basket bag (V2) in black.

[Mr. Ray]

Hi, missed the November sale in black canvas.  If anyone has one they are 
not using please send me a PM.

Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: Susie Longbolts vs Platypus for both pavement & off-road riding?

[Mr. Ray]

Welcome Laura,

My posts have not been posted by admin so hopefully this one gets through.

The Platypus can only accommodate tires up to 2".  If you plan to do off 
pavement, I would go for the Longbolts.

On Sunday, December 5, 2021 at 8:08:15 PM UTC-5 me2g...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello, I am new to this group and still trying to decide which Rivendell 
> bike will be my first. I am torn between the Platypus and a Susie 
> Longbolts. I hope that there are people here that have ridden both, or have 
> turned one of them into their all-around, multi-terrain bike. Ideally, I 
> would LOVE to have both, but that will take a few years to achieve!
>
> As a note, all-terrain is pavement, gravel, fire roads, hard-packed sand. 
> Not aggressive single track or severe off-road.
>
> Rivendell promotes the Platypus mainly for pavement and the Susie for 
> trails. In theory, if both were equipped with the same 2.2” all-terrain 
> tire, which one would make the best multi-use bike? Would the differences 
> be minor or is the geometry on one better able to adapt?
>
> Should I limit my expectations to what the bikes were designed for?
>
> Thanks for your help,
> Laura
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dim lighting on SON hub/Edelux II headlight

[Mr. Ray]

I'm not sure if this was mentioned anywhere but for SON hubs it is 
important to not put much grease on the skewer otherwise the hub can 
malfunction:

 "A lot of grease on a 5mm or 15mm skewer may block the pressure 
compensation system. Nevertheless, to avoid corrosion, we recommend a 
slight film of oil or grease; best idea will be applying some spray wax. In 
any case contact areas at screw head and thread need some grease". 

Most mechanics grease hub skewers generously.
On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 11:47:02 AM UTC-4 Doug H. wrote:

> I can see the virtues of dynamo lighting but I'm still rocking the 
> portable rechargeable ones on my ride. All the wiring and contact points 
> and all that would complicate my bike too much. I hope you get it resolved 
> Leah. Your bike is awesome-sauce!
> Doug
>
> On Saturday, May 1, 2021 at 1:16:12 AM UTC-4 Roberta wrote:
>
>> Andy, yes, this is the hard stuff!  It’s freeing knowing I could ride at 
>> any time and not worry about lighting. In college I had bottle- on-wheel 
>> generator system. Talk about drag!  Still, I always had working light. 
>>
>> Peter White and Analog come thru with their “legendary” customer service. 
>>
>> Roberta
>>
>>
>> On Friday, April 30, 2021 at 5:08:44 AM UTC-4 ascpgh wrote:
>>
>>>  "I can’t exactly go without one."
>>>
>>> Generator hubs and LED lighting will do this to you. They are the hard 
>>> stuff, no gateway necessary.
>>>
>>> I'll be enjoying my SON dynamo and Luxos B/Pixeo lights riding to and 
>>> from work today, concentrating on being thankful for the gift of their 
>>> functions. They cleared my thoughts for my new bike which is a SON SL with 
>>> Edelux II and Compass tail light. I would be hard pressed to depart 
>>> from making my own light. Night riding, even when dictated by commuting to 
>>> work, is great!
>>>
>>> Andy Cheatham
>>> Pittsburgh
>>>
>>> On Thursday, April 29, 2021 at 7:27:40 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Update: it’s the light. 


 The mechanic who installed the dyno system on my Clem  for me last year 
 was working today, and he handled my Platy. He investigated  the whole 
 system, ensured that all the wires and connections were correct and 
 sturdy. 
 The rear tail light does light up, so it seems unlikely the hub is the 
 issue. He feels like the issue is originating in the headlight. Like 
 there’s a short in it or a loose connection. He fiddled around with the 
 switch and was able to get the headlight to come on in the stand. This is 
 exactly what happened for yesterday‘s mechanic. When I picked the bike up 
 and spun the wheel myself, the headlight did not light up.

 I’m going to see if Schmidt will make this right. If not, I guess I’m 
 just ordering another headlight. I can’t exactly go without one.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 29, 2021, at 12:44 PM, masmojo  wrote:

 I'll weigh in a on a few things

 Yes, Contacts on the right (drive) side. 
 Notchiness?  It's just an element of the way the magnets work, it will 
 be worse when the light is on and when they bike is in the air. Once the 
 bike is on the ground with weight on it; it will be imperceptible.
 Dynamo hubs will loosen up a small amount over the first months of use, 
 but it's hardly noticeable and likely no more than regular hubs.
 Funny noise could be an element of having it mounted backwards (?) 
 (just a guess)
 JMHO, but I am also somewhat loath to trim the stock dynamo cables, 
 It's easy to shorten them, but more difficult to make them longer.  
 Typically when joining dynamo wires I head down to the local hobby shop 
 and 
 get mini R/C connectors. this makes connecting and disconnecting a darn 
 site easier and also cutting/soldering.
 Important to note: that some lights are DC and some are AC, shouldn't 
 really be an issue especially if the Tail light is the same brand as the 
 front light. I don't remember which brand is which, but I think typically 
 there's a circuit in the light that does the conversion.
 I like the SON hubs, but I have to say I prefer the Plastic quick 
 connect plugs over the small insulated connectors the SON uses, the SON  
 are really fiddley!
 Also note that some lights won't switch on unless you turn them on 
 while the wheel is moving; I haven't had a big problem with this, because 
 I 
 leave mine on all the time!

 FWIW, I have a SON hub and Edelux light that I bought in a package deal 
 of ebay, Hub seems fine, but I mounted the light up on my Evasion and the 
 light (like yours), doesn't seem very bright.  (may be why the original 
 owner sold them) I haven't really done much towards figuring out why, but 
 it is interesting that you've had a similar experience.  Since I am 
 currently not working, I mainly ride in the daylight, so the light is  

[RBW] Re: Pick your brains about spoke count?

[Mr. Ray]

Wheel building is an art and finding a competent wheel builder is just as 
important as selecting parts.  Rims come in 2 flavors; welded and pinned.  
The former is stronger.  32 vs 36 spokes is a difference of grams and 
shouldn't be an issue unless you are racing.  Using brass nipples vs alloy 
is sensible practice unless you are racing.  Hub flange diameter 
contributes to a wheels strength; the larger the flange the shorter the 
spoke.  For example, a Rohloff hub has a much larger flange diameter than a 
regular hub.  Therefore a 32 spoke wheel for this hub is far stronger than 
a standard 36 spoke wheel using identical parts.  At 210 pounds, I would 
err on the safe and slightly heavier side by using 36 double butted spokes 
(from reputable brands like DT Swiss, Wheelsmith or Sapim and brass nipples 
with loctite) and an alloy rim which is welded vs pinned.  If you only have 
pinned rims then 36 spoke in that configuration is also fine.  In ALL 
cases, the correct wheel builder can build wheels that don't need to be 
trued under normal riding.  My disc wheels were built over a decade ago and 
have over 30,000 miles of loaded RTW touring and are still true to this day.
On Monday, October 25, 2021 at 8:39:44 AM UTC-4 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey all!
> Hypothetically...does an Atlas wheel set with 32 spokes for a 6'3" 210 
> pound dude make sense if he's on an unloaded Sam and using it as an 
> all-road bike? No singletrack/mountain biking, jumping, etc... Tires would 
> be AT LEAST 40mm, possibly up to 44mm. 
>
> OR...is it 36h or bust if you're a big fellow? 
>
> Thanks,
> Ben in Omaha
>

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Re: [RBW] SON Rear Light Brightness?

[Mr. Ray]

I have the SON28, Edelux 2 and SON rack mounted tail light setup.  Tools 
required for a simple installation are zip ties (to secure the tail light 
wire to your frame), a crimping tool (for the spade and ring connectors 
that connect to the Edelux) and a heat gun/lighter (to shrink wrap the 
crimped connectors).

As for brightness, my only comparison is with an older SON, Edelux 1 and 
B Toplight setup and to my eyes the SON tail light is brighter.  
Regardless. for anyone behind you, a steady led tail light is far less 
annoying and blinding than a battery operated flashing one. 

If you want to save some money, get a B tail light.  Either way it's 
money well spent.

Ray  

On Tuesday, October 26, 2021 at 1:16:39 PM UTC-4 Sean B. wrote:

> Hello Mathieu, what seems to be the trouble with them? 
>
> On Tuesday, October 26, 2021 at 12:11:13 PM UTC-5 mathie...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Good day Sean,
>>
>> I know that this isn’t the answer to your question but both my local bike 
>> shop and Rivendell stated, this fall (as I built up my own dyno Riv) that 
>> for a lot of people, dyno rear lights might be more trouble than they’re 
>> worth. 
>>
>> I ended up with a Cygolight HotRod, based on recommendation.
>>
>> Nice and bright.
>>
>> Team, please feel free to tell us we’re soft here by only going dyno in 
>> the front…
>>
>> Mathieu Brown
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone.
>>
>> On Oct 26, 2021, at 11:48 AM, Sean B.  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Hello!
>>
>> I currently have a SONdelux Wide-Body hub with a SON Edelux II headlight 
>> and was wanting to get a taillight as well. Does anyone have experience 
>> with the SON Rear Light? If so, how bright is it and what system are you 
>> using it on? I cant find many reviews online, so thought I'd ask y'all. 
>>
>> Thanks! 
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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