Very good George !
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Resurrecting this thread briefly to announce that I found the problem (at
least I'm pretty sure anyway). After replacing the broken chain with a
new one not only did the same intermittent problem still occur, but I also
noticed that the chain was having problems when being shifted onto the
Thanks Bill - I believe that you and Garth both point to the free hub body
correctly. I'll take a look at that, though if the pawl's in the free hub
body are sticking (apparently common on some manf's of these) then one
would expect the pawls not to be engaging the ratchet teeth properly,
OK, well if there has been something wrong with your bike's set-up and
you've used it for 18 years with that wrong set-up, then it's probably a
pretty good bet that whatever is set up wrong will need to be replaced by
now. If you think that the wonky part contributed to a chain breakage then
Joe - not that I can tell. First of all, I'd likely see it if that
happened. Secondly, it would occur much more frequently than this
sporadic, isolated business.
On Tuesday, May 31, 2022 at 12:22:39 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
> Is the chain jamming between the big ring and a too-low front
Is the chain jamming between the big ring and a too-low front derailleur?
On Tuesday, May 31, 2022 at 9:31:42 AM UTC-7 George Schick wrote:
> Bill - oh, there has definitely been something going on all these years
> that's just not right vs. a perceived but unrealized perfection associated
>
Bill - oh, there has definitely been something going on all these years
that's just not right vs. a perceived but unrealized perfection associated
with a high-end bike. The reason why I'm assuming that the
crunching/grinding had to do with the chain breakage is because it was
starting to make
Bill (this is Joe, not George), I've had that noise madness with SRAM
cassettes. Chains sound all rattly and crunchy on them and I'm just not
into it!
Joe Bernard
On Tuesday, May 31, 2022 at 9:14:22 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
> George
>
> Getting back to the problem you are trying to
George
Getting back to the problem you are trying to solve: Does your instinct
tell you that there's something broken or incorrect, and that faulty
condition is warning you with sound? -OR- is this sound more of something
you just notice. You feel an expensive bike should be silent and
Maybe take a close look at the right-side dropout to make sure it does not
have a crack in it. Normally, if a dropout cracks, failure is soon behind,
so it's unlikely to be the problem in your case, but it is something to
rule out. My friend had his go on his old Raleigh, on the drive side,
Garth - I have not done anything to the freehub body. That's a good
recommendation and I'll have to address it.
Bill S - good point. This frame is one of Grant's "tweeners'; somewhere
between 130 and 135mm spacing so it will accommodate either road or MTB
hubs. I don't think that will cause
It wouldn't hurt to check the alignment of the dropouts and derailleur
hanger.
Bill S
San Diego
On Tuesday, May 31, 2022 at 2:05:45 AM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>
> George, Have you ever cleaned/relubed the cassette/freewheel(whichever the
> DA is) body itself ? I know you've mentioned the
George, Have you ever cleaned/relubed the cassette/freewheel(whichever the
DA is) body itself ? I know you've mentioned the bearings, but not the cog
host body.
I'm with you about the "more gears and wider dropouts" nonsense . I have a
good selection of Sachs and Suntour Ultra 6 and 7 speed
Joe - the chain is rarely, if at all, on the smallest cog next to the chain
stay. It is normally in either cog 4 or 5, counting from the largest cog
outward. I can remember when a company by the name of Sedis (Sedisport?)
first introduced a narrower chain back in the late 70's in order to
Huh, I'm stumped. It crunches under hard pedaling and this time the chain
snapped, which sounds like the chain wanted to keep going and something
back there didn't want to budge. How's the clearance between small cog and
chainstay? This is my last shot at a wild guess..maybe under heavy power
Joe - I thought about that and have since replaced the chain, but in all
likely hood the cassette should still be OK. It's not the original with
the bike; I replaced the one with which the bike shipped with another (same
manf.) that has slightly different gearing. The previous cassette had
Bill - you raise a good point. None of the cogs wiggle, but I can't
remember if they're keyed as they slide onto the free hub splines. Looking
at the way the teeth on the cogs are arranged as the free hub turns makes
me wonder if they get into a certain position and "think" they need to
It could be anything but what I think we know now is the chain is busted
and chain and cassette are both probably pretty old. Based on my
supposition - pulled out of thin air - that your chain never mated well
with that cassette I would replace both now and see what happens.
Joe Bernard
On
George
I'm in California
Just to rule it out, grab a middle-ish cog in the cogset and give it a
wiggle. Does it wiggle relative to the other cogs or are they all really
secure relative to one another? If it wiggles, then maybe the lockring is
loose. If the lockring is tight but the cogs
Bill - thanks for the quick response. Bill asks...
*(have you been) riding the same SRAM 971 chain for 18 years, and you
actually ride the bike a decent amount, (if so) your entire drivetrain is
likely toast. Is that what's going on? Or, do you replace your chain
frequently, and the noise
George indicates that he's had a loud clunking or crunching sound coming
from his bike for 18 years under hard pedaling. He asks "what the heck
gives?"
Have you tried to address it in any way? What have you tried?
Generally these "my bike makes sounds I don't like under hard pedaling"
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