Submitted for your consideration: a crunchy drivetrain problem on my new
Hilsen build.
Hey, what about some pictures? :)
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Just to clarify my earlier comment: There's wiggle which is pretty
minor, and most moving parts have some.
Okay, that must be what I'm detecting.
Thanks for all the suggested solutions, and thanks to the op for asking the
question in the first place. I'm going to work my way through the
Not to be that guy but this is why I went to IGH and single speeds about
10 years ago. Yes it is heavier and less gears but once it is set up there
is no ghost shifting, crunching, mis-matched gears or anything like that.
I ride IGH and single speeds since after decades of dealing with
Now with the discovery of the wiggling cassette issue,
I've never owned a bicycle where the cassette didn't wiggle. Is it
possible that all my rear hubs have been loose? I've cranked down the lock
rings and that has made absolutely no difference. In any case, I have never
had any problems
Just to clarify my earlier comment:
There's wiggle which is pretty minor, and most moving parts have some.
I'm talking about play which was a noticeably off-axis movement. It's
kind of the difference between a creak and a clunk when you are riding.
One is the signal of a deeper problem.
Certainly too much play in the freewheel can cause ghost shifting and so
can a loose D ring. But... my experience has been that the longer the
derailler hanger the more all of these problems get multiplied. If the
cage isn't exactly perpendicular to the cog it increases the chance of a
not a riv answer, but my buddy fixed his similar problem by lengthening the
cable housing to his derailleur. Frame flex and short housing (pinch or
stretch?) combined to cause his autoshifting.
On Thursday, April 11, 2013 11:33:23 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
Before you decide it's a bad
Checking the tightness of the freehub involves removing the axle and then
using a hex wrench to tighten the freehub body into the hub body.
You do need a fairly big, honking hex wrench, but the task is very straight
forward.
Good call on the spacer.
Also - I've pulled lodged pebbles and
I don't know that I've ever seen a freehub that loosened itself. A loosened
cone sometimes looks like a loose freehub, though.
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My concern is sinking time, effort and cash into a rear wheel that I'm not
in love with. Digging into the freehub myself to try to solve this
issue is beyond my skill level and comfort zone. I brought the wheel in to
Jim and Mark at Hiawatha Cyclery a while back to inquire about putting in a
I don't know how you managed it with only 200 miles on the transferred
parts, but it sounds like your new chain is dancing over worn cogs and/or
chainrings.
On Thursday, April 11, 2013 9:22:26 AM UTC-7, Doug M wrote:
Submitted for your consideration: a crunchy drivetrain problem on my new
I get auto shifting on my new Sam in the same circumstances.
*I was told by Rivendell* that all you can really do is tighten the shifter
lever wingnut more to keep the derailleur from slipping out of alignment in
the rear.
I am not used to friction shifting.
I have found that it takes a
Could be worn cogs or chain rings, but unlikely with 200 miles (unless
using a worn out chain to begin with).
First, I'd check the chain (which OP noted as new)-- move the crank slowly
(when up on a repair stand or in reverse) to see if you have a tight link
or one that's bent. I had this
Try what Michael suggested above with tightening the shifter lever. That
worked for me.
Bryan
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I had the same problem on my Atlantis before I sent it to be repainted.
After it came back and I took it to my LBS to have the headset and BB
installed, my mechanic told me that the rear derailler hanger was a bit
bent, and he fixed it (being steel it's not a problem). After I rebuilt the
whole
This is one of those annoying things that seems to have a few possible
causes—I had the exact same problem with my Waterford Bombadil. In my case,
it was the plastic bottom bracket cable guide that was at fault. The one
that came on the bike new from Riv was black with only one mounting hole,
I do not have that particular derailleur, but on several of the ones I do
have, there are 3 adjustment screws. 2 of them, control lateral movement
(from high stop to low stop), the 3rd screw however controls the spring
tension on the derailleur cage (which positions the jockey swing arm fore
Lots of good recommendations here. To troubleshoot, I would follow these
steps:
- Bike on stand, pedals backwards. If there is a stiff link, it will
obviously hang in the pulleys.
- Eyeball the chain from back/top - make sure there are no protruding pins.
- With no chain tension, grasp rear
I have experienced similar experiences after replenishing drivetrain
consumables (chain, cogs, rings) and cables, which cause me to readjust
derailleurs/shifters. For sure a fresh drivetrain is touchier about chain
line until the teeth are burnished by the chain and have more surfaces that
may
PS- don't stand until you know you are solidly in gear.
I hate when the chain auto shifts while I am standing - ouch!!
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Actually, that really should not change a thing in this case. That
specific adjustment is really to tune an indexed shifting setup. You will
adjust cable tension, but since the indexing is really done at the lever,
it is not a constant.
The core issue with modern drivetrains is that they
Thanks everyone for the great suggestions. Got home from work today and started
getting my fingers greasy looking into it with your generously offered wisdom.
As it turns out, when I removed the wheel and examined the cluster there was a
small but noticeable amount of wiggle per Cyclofiend
You can re build a 105 hub for like $5 worrth of new ball bearings and
grease.
On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 6:36 PM, Doug M yengamg...@gmail.com wrote:
Thanks everyone for the great suggestions. Got home from work today and
started getting my fingers greasy looking into it with your generously
Give me a call, Doug. That's a great choice of hub/rim, in my experience.
On Thursday, April 11, 2013 6:36:55 PM UTC-5, Doug M wrote:
Thanks everyone for the great suggestions. Got home from work today and
started getting my fingers greasy looking into it with your generously
offered
Until I started joining all my chains with masterlinks, I'd sometimes be
plagued with stiff links just barely stiff enough to cause skipping but not
stiff enough to see by eye when pedaling the chain backward -- at least,
not by my eyes. I'd have to run the chain through my fingers, backpedaling,
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