you can also go to autozone if there is one nearby. they diagnose via their
computers for free
On Tuesday, September 26, 2017 at 7:48:03 PM UTC-4, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>
> You can also buy your own computer, hook it up to the car and get either
> the code or a description of the code quickly.
Woo-hoo! What do I win?
Good luck with the car!
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It was the crankshaft sensor. Of course, I found all sorts of other things
to spend money on ... (but worth it, for me -- I hate working on cars).
I think someone suggested the crankshaft sensor? Gold star!
On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 6:26 PM, WETH wrote:
> I am curious about
I am curious about the final diagnosis. Did the shop figure it out?
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You can also buy your own computer, hook it up to the car and get either the
code or a description of the code quickly. The cost from $90 and up. You can
diagnose yourself/the car easily.
-Justin
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Thanks again, all, and be assured, I won't fill up the list with off topic
questions; just occasional ones, as long as the moderator doesn't object.
We talk about all sorts of OT things, anyway.
Took the car to a well recommended shop this morning -- it drives fine,
only the engine light was on
Does this car have a distributor? If so, there might be a crack in the
distributor crack. The crack lets just enough moisture in to cause a
short.
On Sunday, September 24, 2017 at 8:58:37 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Riv content: I am riding my Rivs more, now that I've more or less
First question should be - does it have a distributor cap or electronic
ignition? If it has a distributor cap then moisture in there is a good
possibility, and new distributor, points, and wires would be an easy,
relatively low cost thing to try. If it's electronic, then the suggestion
for
On top of which, service stations these days have electronic devices to
read the stored codes, which will tell you exactly what is wrong. It's
pointless to waste time guessing and using trial and error fixit
techniques when you could just read the code and know what was wrong.
On 09/24/2017
"Check engine" is related to the emissions equipment, and could be as simple as
retightening the gas cap. I strongly recommend having the car looked at,
there's just too many possibilities to diagnose it here.
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Just took it for a brief drive. It starts normally, and runs normally, but
the "check engine" light is on.
Further opinions?
Thanks, all, and believe me I don't take up list bandwidth with this topic
carelessly.
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Thanks all; the huge variety of possible causes leads me to think that I
will have AAA tow it to George for an inspection.
I don't mind breaking down mid-drive myself, but I don't want to risk this
at all for Catie.
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Patrick,
I had a similar issue one time with an Isuzu Trooper. It was running just
fine and the next day it wasn't. I turned out to be a diode in the ignition
module.
A close friend was having issues with his Ford Explorer. We were in the
mountains camping so I followed him back home. The
I am not a mechanic, and there isn't a way anyone can diagnose this online,
but I will say:
Usually when this kind of thing happens to me it is either the battery,
alternator, or starter.
But if this is the original battery to a 2006 vehicle then replacing it may
work. My 2006 battery just
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