UPDATE:
So I removed that twisty front fender, and, holding it out to look a it saw
that the stays were a little off center in the eyelets, as one stay was
further out to the side of fender than the other.
I loosened eyelets and re-centered the stays, attached to dropouts and
retightened stay
David said it. Get rid of the Tektro front brake. I know people say they should
work with those fenders, but the reality is the clearance isn't there.
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I love the look of metal fenders and hope to have them one day, but hearing
installation discussions like these terrifies me. I take long enough to put on
the sks longboards, cursing and adjusting along the way.
Give me a ten minute bike job and I'll make it an hour,
Edwin
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Edwin, it's true that aluminum fenders take a lot more finessing to get
right than SKS chromoplastics, or Planet Bike polycarbonates, but because
they're malleable you can actually get them to do what you want. I can't
ever get a perfect fender line with the plastic fenders, and have to rely
Edwin: don't be alarmed. I'm not exactly a klutz, but I am impatient enough
that I generally grasp the general principle and apply it leaving out one
or more of the tedious but necessary intermediate steps. Yet I've installed
at least 2 pairs of metal fenders with good results and with no more
Hmm... except that it only happens sometimes, and what I've noticed is that
whenever I reshape the arc radius I sometimes unintentionally also
introduce a twist problem. I suspect it's because one edge has a slightly
different arc radius than the other edge. The question becomes, how to
2. When I tighten the stays to the dropouts, it over straightens the tail
and it winds up twisting the other way. Weird.
This is caused because the fender and stays are not stress relieved
(pre-bent). They are not assuming the final shape you want them to before
they are bolted up. By
UPDATE:
Thanks for your ideas everyone.
I decided to use a Honjo L bracket with Sheldon fender nut, and the radius
and fenderlines are fine that way. The fender has 1mm clearance between it
and the brake when brake is centered and QR closed. So that works fine.
*Now two more minor issues:*
I think that twist is an archive of the fact that they come off of the
forming machines in a big curly Q. with the fender off the bike twist it a
bt the other way and gently cold set the twist out. At least that is what
I do with the Honjos
Rob
On Friday, October 31, 2014 3:11:02 PM UTC-7,
http://www.renehersebicycles.com/NPP%20Fenders.htm You might want to take
a look at Boulder's fender daruma wedges. These worked great for me
matching fender and wheel radius, and not having to flatten much of
anything.
The 3 mm clearance sounds frightening - you may have to cut the daruma
On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 1:52:42 PM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:
*Issue 2:* The fender needs to be dented more than the factory indent
has, or wedged under the fork crown in order to tip the fender to conform
to the radius of the tire since fork crown doesn't. But, due to the
calipers
That is a really good workaround!
On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 12:15:29 PM UTC-7, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
wrote:
One way you can handle the daruma nut problem is to use a recessed brake
nut instead of the usual nut. You can put the spacers on the outside of
the nut, and the rim on the
Credit to the iBOB list...I recently needed assistance on a similar question,
and they came through.
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It also comes in handy when you need to extend the daruma bolt for extra
fender drop, such as on 650B conversions!
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5173/5402782717_2e2fce3c5a_z.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4082/5411771107_8cc694e743_z.jpg
Anton
On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 5:11:06 PM
I already did it with the brakes centered and tensioned and QR closed and
no dice.
Holding the fender at brake height where it hits the brakes and then
lowering a mm to clear it then requires about 1/8 wedge for daruma to
close the gap.
*But *no use in doing that as I will still need to rotate
I have no room to change the dent to tilt the nose of the fender upward for
radius matching because the calipers prevent the nose of the fender from
rising anymore.
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On my Homer, I did manage to get a little additional top clearance by
switching from 559s to Dia Compe Mod 750 center pulls.
David
On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 7:18:25 PM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:
I have no room to change the dent to tilt the nose of the fender upward
for radius matching
I hate darumas. Darumas are the devil. They steal clearance just where you
want it most.
My favorite fender mounts so far have been home-brewed lengths of aluminum
stock that I bent, slotted, and riveted. Any length you want, and the
slotting is crucial. On plastic fenders, you can actually
Makes me wonder why fender manufacturers design hardware that eats
tire-to-inside-of-fender clearance.
Pan head screws with the heads inside of fender, bolts on the outside would
be a great way to do it.
Antons idea with the brake bolt nut is great, but I would Loctite it for
sure. I'll have
I'm not sure what this concern is about. 3mm of space between the end of a
bolt and the tire is plenty as it's not zero. The tire's never going to
expand and the crown daruma bolt isn't going to drop. In addition, it is
very unlikely that something's going to get caught at the very narrow
Benz, I always use a wide washer with the brake bolt to minimize stresses
around the narrow lip of the brake bolt. Sometimes the washer has to be drilled
out for the brake bolt.
Six years of riding alloy fenders and no stress cracks yet.
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Lungisman,
DO not settle for the 3mm! Think about which way the tire moves when you
hit a big bump, does it move more than 3mm and what would happen if the
spinning tire had a bolt fixed to the crown stab into it? Is the risk of
this happening worth it? I have had situations like this get
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