Re: [RBW] Velocity NoBS vs. Atlas?

2019-05-01 Thread Tom Wyland
John,
Is the new set of wheels you described 32 spoke? Or was that the old set?  
I have a pair of 32 spoke wheels (on Mavic Open Pro 700c narrower rims) and 
I could never keep them true.  Is it different with wider rims?

Tom

On Tuesday, April 30, 2019 at 2:03:19 PM UTC-4, John McBurney wrote:
>
> I went through the same decision process  when rebuilding my wheels before 
> doing the C/GAP ride last Oct. I was loaded out with bike, panniers and 
> rider at 290 Lbs. My wheels were 32 spoke on a belt drive IGH bike. 
>
> The trail was in pretty bad shape and in portions near Paw Paw WV there 
> was deep standing water that lead me to drop into some pretty deep holes. 
>
> The wheels came through unscathed. 
>
> I spec’d Sapim Strong spokes along with NoBS rims. 
>
> They are a nice width. 
>
> Recommended. 
>
> John  
>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Velocity NoBS vs. Atlas?

2019-04-30 Thread Coal Bee Rye Anne
And thank you, John, for sharing your experience with the NoBS rims.  Sounds 
like they were a good fit for your adventure!

It’s very possible I may end up just trying one of the $200 disc wheels in the 
interim and if that build doesn’t work out as a keeper I could sell the whole 
thing with the wheel but I’d hate to do that only to in turn want to upgrade 
later and having a hard time justifying a dedicated disc dyno wheel for an 
unproven conversion/build.  Adding the extra flexibility may help move into 
generator territory altogether.

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[RBW] Velocity NoBS vs. Atlas?

2019-04-30 Thread Ian A
Can't comment on the rims/differences therein, but in terms of switching one 
wheel among different bikes that aren't all disc models, I would suggest it's 
an idea in principle that will rarely be put into practice. Readjusting brakes 
and presumably moving over lights is time consuming enough to be majorly 
inconvenient. 

My unsolicited advice would be to build up a purpose built dynamo disc wheel 
for the 12x100 bike, optimising the rim for that purpose. 

Out of my four bikes (all canti brakes), three have dynamo hubs/lighting 
systems. I could share one dynamo hub and light(s) between the two 26" bikes, 
but it would be a royal pain. And even then it would only make sense to run 
dynamo front lights in that scenario. (The convenience of a dynamo rear light 
is greater in practice than in theory. I am slack about keeping batteries 
charged).

SoN hubs are costly, but the various Shimano and SP offerings are reasonable 
enough to be able to justify more than one bike in a fleet to have dynamo 
lighting. 

My 2c only. Apologies for the answering a question not asked.

IanA Alberta Canada

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Re: [RBW] Velocity NoBS vs. Atlas?

2019-04-30 Thread John McBurney
I went through the same decision process  when rebuilding my wheels before
doing the C/GAP ride last Oct. I was loaded out with bike, panniers and
rider at 290 Lbs. My wheels were 32 spoke on a belt drive IGH bike.

The trail was in pretty bad shape and in portions near Paw Paw WV there was
deep standing water that lead me to drop into some pretty deep holes.

The wheels came through unscathed.

I spec’d Sapim Strong spokes along with NoBS rims.

They are a nice width.

Recommended.

John

On Tue, Apr 30, 2019 at 10:50 AM Coal Bee Rye Anne <
lionsrugbyalu...@gmail.com> wrote:

> If I'm understanding correctly, it would appear the NoBS is the same
> extrusion as the Atlas but just lacking anodization/finish and eyelets.  My
> interpretation of this is viewing the NoBS simply as an unrefined and more
> affordable/budget friendly Atlas.  Are my assumptions accurate?  Am I
> missing something and are there possibly other differences?
>
> NoBS rim descriptions discuss thicker spoke beds and thicker sidewalls...
> but not in direct comparison to Atlas and Atlas rim descriptions (on
> Velocity's pages, etc.) are otherwise lacking.
>
> The NoBS/Atlas has found it's way onto my short list for rims to consider
> for a potential no-nonsense, custom built, multi-purpose, multi-bike,
> dyno-hubbed, new front wheel with future-proofness being greatly taken into
> consideration.
>
> My thinking goes as follows:
> I currently have 4 different frames that share the 700c wheel size (two
> newer/nicer frames including my 65cm Clem, and two older/fixer-upper/beater
> level frames.)  They all have the same 9x100 spec'd fork ends with stock
> forks although nicer frame #2 is involved in an ongoing one-off project
> that involves a more useful/versatile replacement fork with 12x100 thru
> axle and disc brake spec.
>
> I've considered just buying a complete 'off the shelf' thru axle disc
> wheel to accommodate this particular conversion project and being done with
> it but at $150-200 minimum investment at the lower end of those wheel specs
> I'm reconsidering and debating just taking this opportunity to invest in a
> quality handbuilt dyno front wheel that could maybe be moved from bike to
> bike as I rotate them annually and/or seasonally.
>
> At first glance this wouldn't appear to make much sense with the differing
> hub and brake specs (9x100 vs 12x100 TA) but thanks to an adapter like this:
>
> https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/hubs/son-12-mm-thru-axle-adapter/
>
> I'm wondering if building up a single dyno wheel with 12x100 thru axle hub
> with center lock disc and a rim that could be used with rim brakes could be
> more cost effective and space-concious in the long run and with an adapter
> as linked above it could easily transfer over to my Clem and two other
> frames if needed/desired?
>
> I'm not 100% set on the above rims but considering the range of tires I'd
> want/need to fit among the 4 different frames (32mm up to 50+mm(Clem)) this
> rim width seems to offer the best compromise and tire size range.
>
> I understand there are more details to consider, such as
> wiring/lights/etc. that would make moving the wheel from bike to bike more
> complicated and not just a 'quick swap', but my intent would not be to have
> all 4 dyno ready at the same time.  I'd initially dedicate the new disc
> forked project to the generator system (as this is also primarily meant to
> be a winter bike with more night time riding expected) but with the ability
> to move this all over to my Clem and beater bikes whenever needed or
> wanted, since I still like to tinker and try new builds on occasion.
>
> I realize I ventured a little further from my initial question and topic
> but now you know most of what I'm thinking.  I'm basically trying to
> determine if choosing something like the NoBS offers most, if not all, of
> the benefits of an Atlas but by shaving off $30 (or more like $60 if
> compared to the fully polished Atlas) this could help offset the cost of
> the more costly hub (whether SON, Shimano, etc.)
>
> Brian Cole
> Lawrenceville, NJ
>
>
>
>
>
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[RBW] Velocity NoBS vs. Atlas?

2019-04-30 Thread 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch
Precisely. I have both the NoBS and Atlas, and they are identical as far as I 
can tell other than the slight breaking in period of the NoBS with the rim 
brakes. Very minor.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Velocity NoBS vs. Atlas?

2019-04-30 Thread Coal Bee Rye Anne
If I'm understanding correctly, it would appear the NoBS is the same 
extrusion as the Atlas but just lacking anodization/finish and eyelets.  My 
interpretation of this is viewing the NoBS simply as an unrefined and more 
affordable/budget friendly Atlas.  Are my assumptions accurate?  Am I 
missing something and are there possibly other differences?

NoBS rim descriptions discuss thicker spoke beds and thicker sidewalls... 
but not in direct comparison to Atlas and Atlas rim descriptions (on 
Velocity's pages, etc.) are otherwise lacking.

The NoBS/Atlas has found it's way onto my short list for rims to consider 
for a potential no-nonsense, custom built, multi-purpose, multi-bike, 
dyno-hubbed, new front wheel with future-proofness being greatly taken into 
consideration.

My thinking goes as follows:
I currently have 4 different frames that share the 700c wheel size (two 
newer/nicer frames including my 65cm Clem, and two older/fixer-upper/beater 
level frames.)  They all have the same 9x100 spec'd fork ends with stock 
forks although nicer frame #2 is involved in an ongoing one-off project 
that involves a more useful/versatile replacement fork with 12x100 thru 
axle and disc brake spec.

I've considered just buying a complete 'off the shelf' thru axle disc 
wheel to accommodate this particular conversion project and being done with 
it but at $150-200 minimum investment at the lower end of those wheel specs 
I'm reconsidering and debating just taking this opportunity to invest in a 
quality handbuilt dyno front wheel that could maybe be moved from bike to 
bike as I rotate them annually and/or seasonally. 

At first glance this wouldn't appear to make much sense with the differing 
hub and brake specs (9x100 vs 12x100 TA) but thanks to an adapter like this:
https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/hubs/son-12-mm-thru-axle-adapter/
  
I'm wondering if building up a single dyno wheel with 12x100 thru axle hub 
with center lock disc and a rim that could be used with rim brakes could be 
more cost effective and space-concious in the long run and with an adapter 
as linked above it could easily transfer over to my Clem and two other 
frames if needed/desired?

I'm not 100% set on the above rims but considering the range of tires I'd 
want/need to fit among the 4 different frames (32mm up to 50+mm(Clem)) this 
rim width seems to offer the best compromise and tire size range.

I understand there are more details to consider, such as wiring/lights/etc. 
that would make moving the wheel from bike to bike more complicated and not 
just a 'quick swap', but my intent would not be to have all 4 dyno ready at 
the same time.  I'd initially dedicate the new disc forked project to the 
generator system (as this is also primarily meant to be a winter bike 
with more night time riding expected) but with the ability to move this all 
over to my Clem and beater bikes whenever needed or wanted, since I still 
like to tinker and try new builds on occasion.

I realize I ventured a little further from my initial question and topic 
but now you know most of what I'm thinking.  I'm basically trying to 
determine if choosing something like the NoBS offers most, if not all, of 
the benefits of an Atlas but by shaving off $30 (or more like $60 if 
compared to the fully polished Atlas) this could help offset the cost of 
the more costly hub (whether SON, Shimano, etc.)

Brian Cole
Lawrenceville, NJ
 

 
 

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