Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-08-08 Thread Steve Higgins
All I can say without being too product specific, the larger batteries tend to 
have larger, thicker positive, and negative plates.  Of course a taller plate 
gives you more surface area on the plate and thus may require more voltage to 
keep happy.  One thing to keep in mind with taller batteries is you tend to run 
into more stratification issues then the smaller batteries.   These higher 
voltages cause a bit more gassing which helps stir up the electrolyte 
preventing stratification.  I can’t tell you the number of customers that 
report good voltages, but low SG and you ask them to up their Absorb Voltages 
and Times a tad bit and the SGs come right into the green.

Battery manufactures are cramming larger plates into the chassis of the 
batteries to get extra cycle life in an attempt to complete with some of the 
other battery technologies that are popping up here and there.   In reality 
most customers are looking for those magical 5000-10,000 cycles, but don’t 
really want to pay the  required for the proper BMS systems.   As we all 
know, with recent events Boeing did this recently and have learned the hard way 
with the 787 Dreamliner issues.

What I often compare battery based systems to is driving a car down the freeway 
at 55mph… it takes many small  adjustments to accelerator, and steering to keep 
the car on the road and at that speed, when you start making wide range 
adjustments to your driving is when you end up all over the road.   You can’t 
just hold the accelerator and steering in the same place and expect to stay on 
the road.

Some of the best advice I can offer, is no two systems are alike because your 
customers energy usages are usually not alike. Start with the midrange 
settings that the battery manufacture recommends, use temperature compensation, 
and adjust the Absorb Voltage, Absorb Time, and even Float Voltage to help 
control the end users Specific Gravity measurements. If you check your SG 
and they are in the high range take away .2vdc or 30 mins off the absorb time… 
if they are low add that .2 or 30 mins, or even bump up the float.

For a new, or problem system you should be checking SG every 15-30 days, 
eventually when you get a handle on how the customer is using the system most 
people can lengthen the time between their SG checks to 45-90 days.As for 
Refractometers… I always suggest the EXTECH RF41, usually 80-90 bucks on 
amazon. Also about Every 4-6 months the SG measurements should be compared to 
what your SOC meters are reporting, and you should manually adjust the SOC 
meters according to those SG measurements.


From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Dan Fink
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 5:00 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

You can get a decent battery refractometer now for about $80. We got one and it 
works fine. Check Amazon. The one we got is an Extech.

Dan Fink,
Executive Director;
Otherpower
Buckville Energy Consulting
Buckville Publications LLC
NABCEP / IREC accredited Continuing Education Providers
970.672.4342



On Wed, Aug 7, 2013 at 4:43 PM, William Miller 
will...@millersolar.commailto:will...@millersolar.com wrote:
Friends:

I make sure I recommend and, if necessary, sell a refractometer to all of my 
battery customers.  I don't leave this to chance.  They also get a copy of a 
white paper I wrote about battery maintenance.

WM



Steve Higgins
Technical Services Manager
M: +1.206.790.5840
F: +1.902.597.8447
Surrette Battery Company
Exclusive manufacturer of
[cid:rolls8701fc]http://www.rollsbattery.com


From: 
re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.orgmailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
 
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.orgmailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org]
 On Behalf Of Bob-O Schultze
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 3:36 PM
To: RE-wrenches

Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

Steve,
Good advice but I'm not at all surprised that most folks don't have a 
hydrometer. Frankly, unless you are willing to spend a bunch of dough, you 
aren't going to get one that is worth having. And, they are damn hard to find. 
The $5 cheapies with the floating balls, etc are just worthless, IMO.
Bob-O


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-08-07 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Eric,
  I kept this in my inbox for awhile, and finally had to ask - where
  did you get this information? I have never heard this
  recommendation - to charge a taller flooded lead acid battery to a
  higher voltage just because it's taller. I guess I see the
  apparent logic - more gassing addresses a potential for more
  stratification of the electrolyte - but if true, why have I never
  seen this in any battery service guide? What's your source? And
  has anyone else heard of this?
  Thanks, Allan
  
  








  Allan Sindelar
al...@positiveenergysolar.com
NABCEP Certified PV
  Installation Professional 
  NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
  New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
  Founder and Chief Technology Officer
  Positive Energy, Inc., a Certified B CorporationTM
  3209 Richards Lane
  Santa Fe, New Mexico 87507
  505 424-1112 office 780-2738 cell
  www.positiveenergysolar.com
  

  
  On 7/16/2013 7:53 AM, eric.bent...@schneider-electric.com wrote:


  
  Hi Drake,
  
  The L16 is quite popular in RE
apps...but
they typically require a bit higher charge voltage to reach the
correct
SOC than their shorter counterparts (i.e. T105 golf cart),
  
  because they are a taller battery
(stands
to reason .specific "gravity"). Make sure they are in a
vented
enclosure if off-gassing will be an issue. 
  
  Eric
  _

  
  Eric Bentsen | 
  Schneider Electric 
  | Solar
  Business |  UNITED STATES |  Technical
  Support Representative 
  Phone: +(650) 351-8237 ext. 001# |  
  Email: eric.bent...@schneider-electric.com
|  Site:
www.schneider-electric.com/solar
|  Address: 250 South Vasco Rd., Livermore, CA 94551

  


  

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-08-07 Thread RE Ellison
I would be more inclined to think it's because of a denser plate material in 
the larger batteries

I know surrettes need longer absorbs and I believe a bit higher of a charging 
voltage to remain happy

And I generally run the Trojan L16s Just a bit higher than normal




Bob Ellison

On Aug 7, 2013, at 3:33 PM, Allan Sindelar al...@positiveenergysolar.com 
wrote:

 Eric,
 I kept this in my inbox for awhile, and finally had to ask - where did you 
 get this information? I have never heard this recommendation - to charge a 
 taller flooded lead acid battery to a higher voltage just because it's 
 taller. I guess I see the apparent logic - more gassing addresses a potential 
 for more stratification of the electrolyte - but if true, why have I never 
 seen this in any battery service guide? What's your source? And has anyone 
 else heard of this?
 Thanks, Allan
 
 Allan Sindelar
 al...@positiveenergysolar.com
 NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional 
 NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
 New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
 Founder and Chief Technology Officer
 Positive Energy, Inc., a Certified B CorporationTM
 3209 Richards Lane
 Santa Fe, New Mexico 87507
 505 424-1112 office 780-2738 cell
 www.positiveenergysolar.com
  
 On 7/16/2013 7:53 AM, eric.bent...@schneider-electric.com wrote:
 
 Hi Drake, 
 The L16 is quite popular in RE apps...but they typically require a 
 bit higher charge voltage to reach the correct SOC than their shorter 
 counterparts (i.e. T105 golf cart), 
 because they are a taller battery (stands to reason .specific 
 gravity). Make sure they are in a vented enclosure if off-gassing will be 
 an issue. 
 Eric
 _
  
 
 Eric Bentsen  |   Schneider Electric   |  Solar Business  |   UNITED STATES  
 |   Technical Support Representative 
 Phone: +(650) 351-8237 ext. 001#  |   
 Email: eric.bent...@schneider-electric.com  |   Site: 
 www.schneider-electric.com/solar  |   Address: 250 South Vasco Rd., 
 Livermore, CA 94551
 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-08-07 Thread Eric . Bentsen
Hi Allen,
I am going by experience, not only with my own (4) Workaholic L16s, but 
when dealing with customers in the field.
 I would like to get some feedback from other wrenches on this.
 Maybe it is coincidence, but there seems to be a correlation. Maybe the 
taller batteries 
experience sulfation easier?
 
Rgds,
_
 


Eric Bentsen  |   Schneider Electric   |  Solar Business  |   UNITED 
STATES  |   Technical Support Representative 
Phone: +(650) 351-8237 ext. 001#  |   
Email: eric.bent...@schneider-electric.com  |   Site: 
www.schneider-electric.com/solar  |   Address: 250 South Vasco Rd., 
Livermore, CA 94551 


*** Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail 




From:
Allan Sindelar al...@positiveenergysolar.com
To:
RE-wrenches re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
Date:
08/07/2013 12:59 PM
Subject:
Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s
Sent by:
re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org



Eric,
I kept this in my inbox for awhile, and finally had to ask - where did you 
get this information? I have never heard this recommendation - to charge a 
taller flooded lead acid battery to a higher voltage just because it's 
taller. I guess I see the apparent logic - more gassing addresses a 
potential for more stratification of the electrolyte - but if true, why 
have I never seen this in any battery service guide? What's your source? 
And has anyone else heard of this?
Thanks, Allan

Allan Sindelar
al...@positiveenergysolar.com
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional 
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder and Chief Technology Officer
Positive Energy, Inc., a Certified B CorporationTM
3209 Richards Lane
Santa Fe, New Mexico 87507
505 424-1112 office 780-2738 cell
www.positiveenergysolar.com
 
On 7/16/2013 7:53 AM, eric.bent...@schneider-electric.com wrote:

Hi Drake, 
The L16 is quite popular in RE apps...but they typically require a bit 
higher charge voltage to reach the correct SOC than their shorter 
counterparts (i.e. T105 golf cart), 
because they are a taller battery (stands to reason .specific 
gravity). Make sure they are in a vented enclosure if off-gassing will 
be an issue. 
Eric
_
 


Eric Bentsen  |   Schneider Electric   |  Solar Business  |   UNITED 
STATES  |   Technical Support Representative 
Phone: +(650) 351-8237 ext. 001#  |   
Email: eric.bent...@schneider-electric.com  |   Site: 
www.schneider-electric.com/solar  |   Address: 250 South Vasco Rd., 
Livermore, CA 94551 



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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-08-07 Thread Bob-O Schultze
Steve,
Good advice but I'm not at all surprised that most folks don't have a 
hydrometer. Frankly, unless you are willing to spend a bunch of dough, you 
aren't going to get one that is worth having. And, they are damn hard to find. 
The $5 cheapies with the floating balls, etc are just worthless, IMO. 
Bob-O

On Aug 7, 2013, at 3:11 PM, Steve Higgins wrote:

Maybe, I’m overstepping here… but here goes.
 
In most off grid systems you are going to run just a tad bit hotter 
voltage/time.  This is because most of the batteries that are sold into this 
market were really designed and meant for Industrial applications.   The 
industrial application assumes that you are pretty much charging the battery 
with a stiff grid sourced current based charger every single night.
 
In most off grid systems the customer is slowly letting the battery fall to a 
25% or 50% DOD state of discharge before enabling a fossil fuel source to bring 
the battery to full state. When these batteries are run at lower state for 
a period of time they need a bit more voltage to remove the sulfation that has 
developed on the plates.  
 
What I’ve found over the last year is many people are depending on way too 
small of an array to get any battery bank charged, and of course are very 
reluctant to use a genset to power an inverter to charge the batteries.   This 
leads to poor SG’s and eventual failure. 
 
It also amazes me with how many people don’t even own a hydrometer to check the 
true state of charge on their battery.   Talked with a guy that has his 
batteries for 5 years and has NEVER taken an SG measurement.
 
 
 
Steve Higgins
Technical Services Manager
M: +1.206.790.5840
F: +1.902.597.8447
Surrette Battery Company
Exclusive manufacturer of
rollsa5da08.jpeg


From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of RE Ellison
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 2:29 PM
To: al...@positiveenergysolar.com; RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s
 
I would be more inclined to think it's because of a denser plate material in 
the larger batteries
 
I know surrettes need longer absorbs and I believe a bit higher of a charging 
voltage to remain happy
 
And I generally run the Trojan L16s Just a bit higher than normal
 



Bob Ellison

On Aug 7, 2013, at 3:33 PM, Allan Sindelar al...@positiveenergysolar.com 
wrote:

Eric,
I kept this in my inbox for awhile, and finally had to ask - where did you get 
this information? I have never heard this recommendation - to charge a taller 
flooded lead acid battery to a higher voltage just because it's taller. I guess 
I see the apparent logic - more gassing addresses a potential for more 
stratification of the electrolyte - but if true, why have I never seen this in 
any battery service guide? What's your source? And has anyone else heard of 
this?
Thanks, Allan

Allan Sindelar
al...@positiveenergysolar.com
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional 
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder and Chief Technology Officer
Positive Energy, Inc., a Certified B CorporationTM
3209 Richards Lane
Santa Fe, New Mexico 87507
505 424-1112 office 780-2738 cell
www.positiveenergysolar.com
On 7/16/2013 7:53 AM, eric.bent...@schneider-electric.com wrote:

Hi Drake, 
The L16 is quite popular in RE apps...but they typically require a bit higher 
charge voltage to reach the correct SOC than their shorter counterparts (i.e. 
T105 golf cart), 
because they are a taller battery (stands to reason .specific gravity). 
Make sure they are in a vented enclosure if off-gassing will be an issue. 
Eric
_
 

Eric Bentsen  |   Schneider Electric   |  Solar Business  |   UNITED STATES  |  
 Technical Support Representative 
Phone: +(650) 351-8237 ext. 001#  |   
Email: eric.bent...@schneider-electric.com  |   Site: 
www.schneider-electric.com/solar  |   Address: 250 South Vasco Rd., Livermore, 
CA 94551

 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-08-07 Thread William Miller
Friends:
 
I make sure I recommend and, if necessary, sell a refractometer to all of my
battery customers.  I don't leave this to chance.  They also get a copy of a
white paper I wrote about battery maintenance.
 
WM
 


  _  

From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Bob-O
Schultze
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 3:36 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s


Steve, 
Good advice but I'm not at all surprised that most folks don't have a
hydrometer. Frankly, unless you are willing to spend a bunch of dough, you
aren't going to get one that is worth having. And, they are damn hard to
find. The $5 cheapies with the floating balls, etc are just worthless, IMO. 
Bob-O
 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-08-07 Thread Dan Fink
You can get a decent battery refractometer now for about $80. We got one
and it works fine. Check Amazon. The one we got is an Extech.

Dan Fink,
Executive Director;
Otherpower
Buckville Energy Consulting
Buckville Publications LLC
NABCEP / IREC accredited Continuing Education Providers
970.672.4342




On Wed, Aug 7, 2013 at 4:43 PM, William Miller will...@millersolar.comwrote:

 **
 Friends:

 I make sure I recommend and, if necessary, sell a refractometer to all of
 my battery customers.  I don't leave this to chance.  They also get a copy
 of a white paper I wrote about battery maintenance.

 WM


  --
 *From:* re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org [mailto:
 re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] *On Behalf Of *Bob-O Schultze
 *Sent:* Wednesday, August 07, 2013 3:36 PM
 *To:* RE-wrenches

 *Subject:* Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

 Steve,
 Good advice but I'm not at all surprised that most folks don't have a
 hydrometer. Frankly, unless you are willing to spend a bunch of dough, you
 aren't going to get one that is worth having. And, they are damn hard to
 find. The $5 cheapies with the floating balls, etc are just worthless, IMO.
 Bob-O


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-07-23 Thread Tom Duffy
Jay

Sorry I should have explained that too... Absorb starts off at around 50% of 
the available amps and tapers down to around 20% So I divided 20 by 50 = .40 
there's a 5% loss factor hence .42

Tom Duffy
Senior Solar Design Engineer

Toll Free 888-895-8179
t...@thesolar.biz
Customer Service and Accounting 888-895-6810 
Grid tie sales 888-895-7847 
Off Grid sales 888-895-4058 
Other Product Sales 888-895-9612 
Central America Sales (Panama) 507-6-126-1253 
Shipping and Receiving 888-895-6497 
Tech Support 888-895-8179
SKYPE:  thesolarbiz

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Jay Peltz
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 1:27 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

Hi Tom

Where did you get the .42 from?

Jay
Peltz power 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 22, 2013, at 11:04 AM, Tom Duffy t...@thesolar.biz wrote:

 Drake
 
 Keep the absorb rate recommended for the CC. The trimetric strays over 
 time and will become accurate again when you overcharge (equalize)
 
 The math:
 Amp hours of battery @ 20 hour rate divided by max charge available in 
 amps, from whatever you using to charge (solar or inverter/charger) 
 Times .42 = absorb time in hours
 
 i.e. your system 980 watts,  980 divided by 28.8 (average volts) = 34 
 amps max charge
 370 AH divided by 34 = 10.88 X .42 = 4.57 round up to 4.6 hours absorb 
 time for the CC Your inverter VFX3524 max charge 85 amps... 370 
 divided by 85 = 4.35 X .42 = 1.82 absorb time for the inverter/charger 
 when running generator
 
 Tom Duffy
 Senior Solar Design Engineer
 
 Toll Free 888-895-8179
 t...@thesolar.biz
 Customer Service and Accounting 888-895-6810 Grid tie sales 
 888-895-7847 Off Grid sales 888-895-4058 Other Product Sales 
 888-895-9612 Central America Sales (Panama) 507-6-126-1253 Shipping 
 and Receiving 888-895-6497 Tech Support 888-895-8179
 SKYPE:  thesolarbiz
 
 -Original Message-
 From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
 [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Drake
 Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 10:04 AM
 To: RE-wrenches
 Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s
 
 Hi Larry,
 
 I will bump up the absorb voltage to 29.6 V. How long do you think the bank 
 should stay in absorb at that rate?  The bank now seems healthy, with the bad 
 battery replaced.  It does accept charge, without going high prematurely.  
 The max charge rate from the array is around C/10. The system can also be 
 fast charged from a Honda 6500 inverter generator through the Outback 3524 
 VFX.
 
 We have a Trimetric meter on the system. The discrepancy between the percent 
 charge and the voltage is what demonstrated that we had a problem.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Drake
 
 
 
 At 09:30 PM 7/19/2013, you wrote:
 Hi Drake,
 
 It always concerns me when I hear that a battery bank reaches absorb 
 setting very quickly. It typically means one of two things: very few 
 AH were removed from the bank; the battery bank has sulfated cells 
 due to chronic undercharging. Far too often I find the latter to be true.
 
 Healthy batteries will accept current and hold the charge voltage 
 down with a fairly linear, slow climb to absorption voltage. Sulfated 
 batteries do not accept current well which allows voltage to climb 
 rapidly as the battery presents little load on the charging system. 
 I'm not sure how this plays into your original post about a bad cell 
 but it seemed worth mentioning.
 
 My opinion is to aggressively charge, by using higher voltage, large 
 flooded batteries. This is especially true when the PV system is 
 moderate or undersized. 29.6 volts is what Trojan recommends. You can 
 go as high as 32 volts on the L-16's but make sure the temperature 
 compensation is installed properly and working. You will use more water.
 
 One last comment, I highly recommend that ALL off grid systems have a 
 battery capacity monitor installed. It's kind of like flying an 
 airplane without a fuel gauge...it might not end in disaster.
 
 Larry Crutcher
 Starlight Solar Power Systems
 
 
 
 On Jul 18, 2013, at 1:11 PM, Drake
 drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org wrote:
 
 Tom,
 
 The batteries usually reach absorb voltage shortly after the sun hits 
 the array. The reason the bank wasn't working correctly is that one 
 cell was dead in one of the batteries.
 
 I could increase the absorb time to 4.6 hours and the voltage to 
 29.6, especially since the bank has a new battery. That is longer and 
 higher than I'd previously heard recommended.
 What would be the effect on water
 consumption?  How did you calculate the absorb time?
 
 Thanks,
 
 
 Drake
 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-07-23 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Tom,
  Except that absorb starts off at 100% of the available amps, not
  50%. Absorb starts as soon as bulk reaches the bulk voltage
  setpoint. It starts out at the same current as was available in
  bulk, then ramps back incrementally as the batteries continue to
  approach full, allowing only as much of the available current to
  flow to the batteries as is necessary to maintain the voltage
  setpoint plus loads.
  
  On the finishing end, absorb doesn't have much to do with
  available amps. Rather, it either completes a timed cycle, with no
  particular control of the available amps except as regulated as
  above, or it switches to float when the amps necessary to maintain
  the bulk (a.k.a. absorption) voltage drops below a threshold,
  typically 2% of bank capacity.
  
  And finally, the midpoint between 20 and 50 is 35, not 40.
  
  Given that these principles form the basis of your definitive .42
  figure, this number sounds pretty arbitrary. Is there anything
  more you can say by way of explanation?
  Thanks, Allan
  
  








  Allan Sindelar
al...@positiveenergysolar.com
NABCEP Certified PV
  Installation Professional 
  NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
  New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
  Founder and Chief Technology Officer
  Positive Energy, Inc., a Certified B CorporationTM
  3209 Richards Lane
  Santa Fe, New Mexico 87507
  505 424-1112 office 780-2738 cell
  www.positiveenergysolar.com
  

  
  On 7/23/2013 7:57 AM, Tom Duffy wrote:


  Jay

Sorry I should have explained that too... Absorb starts off at around 50% of the available amps and tapers down to around 20% So I divided 20 by 50 = .40 there's a 5% loss factor hence .42

Tom Duffy
Senior Solar Design Engineer

Toll Free 888-895-8179
t...@thesolar.biz
Customer Service and Accounting 888-895-6810 
Grid tie sales 888-895-7847 
Off Grid sales 888-895-4058 
Other Product Sales 888-895-9612 
Central America Sales (Panama) 507-6-126-1253 
Shipping and Receiving 888-895-6497 
Tech Support 888-895-8179
SKYPE:  thesolarbiz

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Jay Peltz
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 1:27 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

Hi Tom

Where did you get the .42 from?

Jay
Peltz power 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 22, 2013, at 11:04 AM, Tom Duffy t...@thesolar.biz wrote:


  
Drake

Keep the absorb rate recommended for the CC. The trimetric strays over 
time and will become accurate again when you overcharge (equalize)

The math:
Amp hours of battery @ 20 hour rate divided by max charge available in 
amps, from whatever you using to charge (solar or inverter/charger) 
Times .42 = absorb time in hours

i.e. your system 980 watts,  980 divided by 28.8 (average volts) = 34 
amps max charge
370 AH divided by 34 = 10.88 X .42 = 4.57 round up to 4.6 hours absorb 
time for the CC Your inverter VFX3524 max charge 85 amps... 370 
divided by 85 = 4.35 X .42 = 1.82 absorb time for the inverter/charger 
when running generator

Tom Duffy
Senior Solar Design Engineer

Toll Free 888-895-8179
t...@thesolar.biz
Customer Service and Accounting 888-895-6810 Grid tie sales 
888-895-7847 Off Grid sales 888-895-4058 Other Product Sales 
888-895-9612 Central America Sales (Panama) 507-6-126-1253 Shipping 
and Receiving 888-895-6497 Tech Support 888-895-8179
SKYPE:  thesolarbiz

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Drake
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 10:04 AM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

Hi Larry,

I will bump up the absorb voltage to 29.6 V. How long do you think the bank should stay in absorb at that rate?  The bank now seems healthy, with the bad battery replaced.  It does accept charge, without going high prematurely.  The max charge rate from the array is around C/10. The system can also be fast charged from a Honda 6500 inverter generator through the Outback 3524 VFX.

We have a Trimetric meter on the system. The discrepancy between the percent charge and the voltage is what demonstrated that we had a problem.

Thanks,

Drake



At 09:30 PM 7/19/2013, you wrote:


  Hi Drake,

It always concerns me when I hear that a battery bank reaches absorb 
setting very quickly. It typically means one of two things: very few 
AH were removed from the bank; the battery bank has sulfated cells 
due to chronic undercharging. Far too often I find the latter to be true.

Healthy batteries will accept current and hold the charge

Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-07-22 Thread Drake

Hi Larry,

I will bump up the absorb voltage to 29.6 V. How 
long do you think the bank should stay in absorb 
at that rate?  The bank now seems healthy, with 
the bad battery replaced.  It does accept charge, 
without going high prematurely.  The max charge 
rate from the array is around C/10. The system 
can also be fast charged from a Honda 6500 
inverter generator through the Outback 3524 VFX.


We have a Trimetric meter on the system. The 
discrepancy between the percent charge and the 
voltage is what demonstrated that we had a problem.


Thanks,

Drake



At 09:30 PM 7/19/2013, you wrote:

Hi Drake,

It always concerns me when I hear that a battery 
bank reaches absorb setting very quickly. It 
typically means one of two things: very few AH 
were removed from the bank; the battery bank has 
sulfated cells due to chronic undercharging. Far 
too often I find the latter to be true.


Healthy batteries will accept current and hold 
the charge voltage down with a fairly linear, 
slow climb to absorption voltage. Sulfated 
batteries do not accept current well which 
allows voltage to climb rapidly as the battery 
presents little load on the charging system. I'm 
not sure how this plays into your original post 
about a bad cell but it seemed worth mentioning.


My opinion is to aggressively charge, by using 
higher voltage, large flooded batteries. This is 
especially true when the PV system is moderate 
or undersized. 29.6 volts is what Trojan 
recommends. You can go as high as 32 volts on 
the L-16's but make sure the temperature 
compensation is installed properly and working. You will use more water.


One last comment, I highly recommend that ALL 
off grid systems have a battery capacity monitor 
installed. It's kind of like flying an airplane 
without a fuel gauge…it might not end in disaster.


Larry Crutcher
Starlight Solar Power Systems



On Jul 18, 2013, at 1:11 PM, Drake 
drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org wrote:


Tom,

The batteries usually reach absorb voltage 
shortly after the sun hits the array. The reason 
the bank wasn't working correctly is that one 
cell was dead in one of the batteries.


I could increase the absorb time to 4.6 hours 
and the voltage to 29.6, especially since the 
bank has a new battery. That is longer and 
higher than I'd previously heard recommended. 
What would be the effect on water 
consumption?  How did you calculate the absorb time?


Thanks,


Drake

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-07-22 Thread Tom Duffy
Drake

Keep the absorb rate recommended for the CC. The trimetric strays over time and 
will become accurate again when you overcharge (equalize)

The math:
Amp hours of battery @ 20 hour rate divided by max charge available in amps, 
from whatever you using to charge (solar or inverter/charger)
Times .42 = absorb time in hours 

i.e. your system 980 watts,  980 divided by 28.8 (average volts) = 34 amps max 
charge
370 AH divided by 34 = 10.88 X .42 = 4.57 round up to 4.6 hours absorb time for 
the CC
Your inverter VFX3524 max charge 85 amps... 370 divided by 85 = 4.35 X .42 = 
1.82 absorb time for the inverter/charger when running generator

Tom Duffy
Senior Solar Design Engineer

Toll Free 888-895-8179
t...@thesolar.biz
Customer Service and Accounting 888-895-6810 
Grid tie sales 888-895-7847 
Off Grid sales 888-895-4058 
Other Product Sales 888-895-9612 
Central America Sales (Panama) 507-6-126-1253 
Shipping and Receiving 888-895-6497 
Tech Support 888-895-8179
SKYPE:  thesolarbiz

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Drake
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 10:04 AM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

Hi Larry,

I will bump up the absorb voltage to 29.6 V. How long do you think the bank 
should stay in absorb at that rate?  The bank now seems healthy, with the bad 
battery replaced.  It does accept charge, without going high prematurely.  The 
max charge rate from the array is around C/10. The system can also be fast 
charged from a Honda 6500 inverter generator through the Outback 3524 VFX.

We have a Trimetric meter on the system. The discrepancy between the percent 
charge and the voltage is what demonstrated that we had a problem.

Thanks,

Drake



At 09:30 PM 7/19/2013, you wrote:
Hi Drake,

It always concerns me when I hear that a battery bank reaches absorb 
setting very quickly. It typically means one of two things: very few AH 
were removed from the bank; the battery bank has sulfated cells due to 
chronic undercharging. Far too often I find the latter to be true.

Healthy batteries will accept current and hold the charge voltage down 
with a fairly linear, slow climb to absorption voltage. Sulfated 
batteries do not accept current well which allows voltage to climb 
rapidly as the battery presents little load on the charging system. I'm 
not sure how this plays into your original post about a bad cell but it 
seemed worth mentioning.

My opinion is to aggressively charge, by using higher voltage, large 
flooded batteries. This is especially true when the PV system is 
moderate or undersized. 29.6 volts is what Trojan recommends. You can 
go as high as 32 volts on the L-16's but make sure the temperature 
compensation is installed properly and working. You will use more water.

One last comment, I highly recommend that ALL off grid systems have a 
battery capacity monitor installed. It's kind of like flying an 
airplane without a fuel gauge...it might not end in disaster.

Larry Crutcher
Starlight Solar Power Systems



On Jul 18, 2013, at 1:11 PM, Drake
drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org wrote:

Tom,

The batteries usually reach absorb voltage shortly after the sun hits 
the array. The reason the bank wasn't working correctly is that one 
cell was dead in one of the batteries.

I could increase the absorb time to 4.6 hours and the voltage to 29.6, 
especially since the bank has a new battery. That is longer and higher 
than I'd previously heard recommended.
What would be the effect on water
consumption?  How did you calculate the absorb time?

Thanks,


Drake

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-07-22 Thread Jay Peltz
Hi Tom

Where did you get the .42 from?

Jay
Peltz power 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 22, 2013, at 11:04 AM, Tom Duffy t...@thesolar.biz wrote:

 Drake
 
 Keep the absorb rate recommended for the CC. The trimetric strays over time 
 and will become accurate again when you overcharge (equalize)
 
 The math:
 Amp hours of battery @ 20 hour rate divided by max charge available in amps, 
 from whatever you using to charge (solar or inverter/charger)
 Times .42 = absorb time in hours 
 
 i.e. your system 980 watts,  980 divided by 28.8 (average volts) = 34 amps 
 max charge
 370 AH divided by 34 = 10.88 X .42 = 4.57 round up to 4.6 hours absorb time 
 for the CC
 Your inverter VFX3524 max charge 85 amps... 370 divided by 85 = 4.35 X .42 = 
 1.82 absorb time for the inverter/charger when running generator
 
 Tom Duffy
 Senior Solar Design Engineer
 
 Toll Free 888-895-8179
 t...@thesolar.biz
 Customer Service and Accounting 888-895-6810 
 Grid tie sales 888-895-7847 
 Off Grid sales 888-895-4058 
 Other Product Sales 888-895-9612 
 Central America Sales (Panama) 507-6-126-1253 
 Shipping and Receiving 888-895-6497 
 Tech Support 888-895-8179
 SKYPE:  thesolarbiz
 
 -Original Message-
 From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
 [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Drake
 Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 10:04 AM
 To: RE-wrenches
 Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s
 
 Hi Larry,
 
 I will bump up the absorb voltage to 29.6 V. How long do you think the bank 
 should stay in absorb at that rate?  The bank now seems healthy, with the bad 
 battery replaced.  It does accept charge, without going high prematurely.  
 The max charge rate from the array is around C/10. The system can also be 
 fast charged from a Honda 6500 inverter generator through the Outback 3524 
 VFX.
 
 We have a Trimetric meter on the system. The discrepancy between the percent 
 charge and the voltage is what demonstrated that we had a problem.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Drake
 
 
 
 At 09:30 PM 7/19/2013, you wrote:
 Hi Drake,
 
 It always concerns me when I hear that a battery bank reaches absorb 
 setting very quickly. It typically means one of two things: very few AH 
 were removed from the bank; the battery bank has sulfated cells due to 
 chronic undercharging. Far too often I find the latter to be true.
 
 Healthy batteries will accept current and hold the charge voltage down 
 with a fairly linear, slow climb to absorption voltage. Sulfated 
 batteries do not accept current well which allows voltage to climb 
 rapidly as the battery presents little load on the charging system. I'm 
 not sure how this plays into your original post about a bad cell but it 
 seemed worth mentioning.
 
 My opinion is to aggressively charge, by using higher voltage, large 
 flooded batteries. This is especially true when the PV system is 
 moderate or undersized. 29.6 volts is what Trojan recommends. You can 
 go as high as 32 volts on the L-16's but make sure the temperature 
 compensation is installed properly and working. You will use more water.
 
 One last comment, I highly recommend that ALL off grid systems have a 
 battery capacity monitor installed. It's kind of like flying an 
 airplane without a fuel gauge...it might not end in disaster.
 
 Larry Crutcher
 Starlight Solar Power Systems
 
 
 
 On Jul 18, 2013, at 1:11 PM, Drake
 drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org wrote:
 
 Tom,
 
 The batteries usually reach absorb voltage shortly after the sun hits 
 the array. The reason the bank wasn't working correctly is that one 
 cell was dead in one of the batteries.
 
 I could increase the absorb time to 4.6 hours and the voltage to 29.6, 
 especially since the bank has a new battery. That is longer and higher 
 than I'd previously heard recommended.
 What would be the effect on water
 consumption?  How did you calculate the absorb time?
 
 Thanks,
 
 
 Drake
 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-07-22 Thread Larry Crutcher, Starlight Solar Power Systems
Drake,

When you said, The batteries usually reach absorb voltage shortly after the 
sun hits the array, I wondered if you had more of a problem with that system. 
Glad to hear it's not that way.

Absorb time is an issue I have with the design of most charge controllers: They 
do not measure current to the battery and use that as the source info to 
determine if a battery is completely full and when to transition into float 
mode. Blue Sky Energy does this which, in my book, makes it a great charge 
controller. If you know how much current any battery draws (they are all 
different and change with age) when it is completely full, then the charge 
controller can be programmed to stay in absorb until that parameter is met. It 
could be 1/2 hour one day and 4 hours the next. Many things affect how 
batteries charge and this is the only true method I know of to accurately 
determine when it is full each day.

For your situation, I would go with Trojans recommendation of 2 hours absorb at 
29.6. If you see that this is not fully charging each day, you can try 
increasing the time or choosing a higher voltage. If you have the sun hours 
available, I would choose longer charge time. There are many areas in the 
States that simply do not have enough sun hours to completely charge the 
battery from PV solar alone. In this case, using higher absorb voltage may be a 
solution.

Larry


On Jul 22, 2013, at 10:04 AM, Drake drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org 
wrote:

Hi Larry,

I will bump up the absorb voltage to 29.6 V. How long do you think the bank 
should stay in absorb at that rate?  The bank now seems healthy, with the bad 
battery replaced.  It does accept charge, without going high prematurely.  The 
max charge rate from the array is around C/10. The system can also be fast 
charged from a Honda 6500 inverter generator through the Outback 3524 VFX.

We have a Trimetric meter on the system. The discrepancy between the percent 
charge and the voltage is what demonstrated that we had a problem.

Thanks,

Drake



At 09:30 PM 7/19/2013, you wrote:
 Hi Drake,
 
 It always concerns me when I hear that a battery bank reaches absorb setting 
 very quickly. It typically means one of two things: very few AH were removed 
 from the bank; the battery bank has sulfated cells due to chronic 
 undercharging. Far too often I find the latter to be true.
 
 Healthy batteries will accept current and hold the charge voltage down with a 
 fairly linear, slow climb to absorption voltage. Sulfated batteries do not 
 accept current well which allows voltage to climb rapidly as the battery 
 presents little load on the charging system. I'm not sure how this plays into 
 your original post about a bad cell but it seemed worth mentioning.
 
 My opinion is to aggressively charge, by using higher voltage, large flooded 
 batteries. This is especially true when the PV system is moderate or 
 undersized. 29.6 volts is what Trojan recommends. You can go as high as 32 
 volts on the L-16's but make sure the temperature compensation is installed 
 properly and working. You will use more water.
 
 One last comment, I highly recommend that ALL off grid systems have a battery 
 capacity monitor installed. It's kind of like flying an airplane without a 
 fuel gauge…it might not end in disaster.
 
 Larry Crutcher
 Starlight Solar Power Systems
 
 
 
 On Jul 18, 2013, at 1:11 PM, Drake drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org 
 wrote:
 
 Tom,
 
 The batteries usually reach absorb voltage shortly after the sun hits the 
 array. The reason the bank wasn't working correctly is that one cell was dead 
 in one of the batteries.
 
 I could increase the absorb time to 4.6 hours and the voltage to 29.6, 
 especially since the bank has a new battery. That is longer and higher than 
 I'd previously heard recommended. What would be the effect on water 
 consumption?  How did you calculate the absorb time?
 
 Thanks,
 
 
 Drake

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-07-22 Thread Drake

Larry and Tom,

Thanks for the information.  I will boost the 
voltage and the charge hours for the array. The inverter is good as is.


The batteries charge quickly since they are not 
generally cycled deeply. The cabin is only used 
for three or four days a week, giving the 
batteries plenty of time to be maintained.


Interestingly,  Tom's email never reached me 
directly.  I read it through Jay's reply.


Drake

At 03:02 PM 7/22/2013, you wrote:

Drake,

When you said, The batteries usually reach 
absorb voltage shortly after the sun hits the 
array, I wondered if you had more of a problem 
with that system. Glad to hear it's not that way.


Absorb time is an issue I have with the design 
of most charge controllers: They do not measure 
current to the battery and use that as the 
source info to determine if a battery is 
completely full and when to transition into 
float mode. Blue Sky Energy does this which, in 
my book, makes it a great charge controller. If 
you know how much current any battery draws 
(they are all different and change with age) 
when it is completely full, then the charge 
controller can be programmed to stay in absorb 
until that parameter is met. It could be 1/2 
hour one day and 4 hours the next. Many things 
affect how batteries charge and this is the only 
true method I know of to accurately determine when it is full each day.


For your situation, I would go with Trojans 
recommendation of 2 hours absorb at 29.6. If you 
see that this is not fully charging each day, 
you can try increasing the time or choosing a 
higher voltage. If you have the sun hours 
available, I would choose longer charge time. 
There are many areas in the States that simply 
do not have enough sun hours to completely 
charge the battery from PV solar alone. In this 
case, using higher absorb voltage may be a solution.


Larry


On Jul 22, 2013, at 10:04 AM, Drake 
drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org wrote:


Hi Larry,

I will bump up the absorb voltage to 29.6 V. How 
long do you think the bank should stay in absorb 
at that rate?  The bank now seems healthy, with 
the bad battery replaced.  It does accept 
charge, without going high prematurely.  The max 
charge rate from the array is around C/10. The 
system can also be fast charged from a Honda 
6500 inverter generator through the Outback 3524 VFX.


We have a Trimetric meter on the system. The 
discrepancy between the percent charge and the 
voltage is what demonstrated that we had a problem.


Thanks,

Drake



At 09:30 PM 7/19/2013, you wrote:
 Hi Drake,

 It always concerns me when I hear that a 
battery bank reaches absorb setting very 
quickly. It typically means one of two things: 
very few AH were removed from the bank; the 
battery bank has sulfated cells due to chronic 
undercharging. Far too often I find the latter to be true.


 Healthy batteries will accept current and 
hold the charge voltage down with a fairly 
linear, slow climb to absorption voltage. 
Sulfated batteries do not accept current well 
which allows voltage to climb rapidly as the 
battery presents little load on the charging 
system. I'm not sure how this plays into your 
original post about a bad cell but it seemed worth mentioning.


 My opinion is to aggressively charge, by 
using higher voltage, large flooded batteries. 
This is especially true when the PV system is 
moderate or undersized. 29.6 volts is what 
Trojan recommends. You can go as high as 32 
volts on the L-16's but make sure the 
temperature compensation is installed properly 
and working. You will use more water.


 One last comment, I highly recommend that ALL 
off grid systems have a battery capacity 
monitor installed. It's kind of like flying an 
airplane without a fuel gauge…it might not end in disaster.


 Larry Crutcher
 Starlight Solar Power Systems



 On Jul 18, 2013, at 1:11 PM, Drake 
drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org wrote:


 Tom,

 The batteries usually reach absorb voltage 
shortly after the sun hits the array. The 
reason the bank wasn't working correctly is 
that one cell was dead in one of the batteries.


 I could increase the absorb time to 4.6 hours 
and the voltage to 29.6, especially since the 
bank has a new battery. That is longer and 
higher than I'd previously heard recommended. 
What would be the effect on water 
consumption?  How did you calculate the absorb time?


 Thanks,


 Drake

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-07-19 Thread Larry Crutcher, Starlight Solar Power Systems
Hi Drake,

It always concerns me when I hear that a battery bank reaches absorb setting 
very quickly. It typically means one of two things: very few AH were removed 
from the bank; the battery bank has sulfated cells due to chronic 
undercharging. Far too often I find the latter to be true.

Healthy batteries will accept current and hold the charge voltage down with a 
fairly linear, slow climb to absorption voltage. Sulfated batteries do not 
accept current well which allows voltage to climb rapidly as the battery 
presents little load on the charging system. I'm not sure how this plays into 
your original post about a bad cell but it seemed worth mentioning. 

My opinion is to aggressively charge, by using higher voltage, large flooded 
batteries. This is especially true when the PV system is moderate or 
undersized. 29.6 volts is what Trojan recommends. You can go as high as 32 
volts on the L-16's but make sure the temperature compensation is installed 
properly and working. You will use more water.

One last comment, I highly recommend that ALL off grid systems have a battery 
capacity monitor installed. It's kind of like flying an airplane without a fuel 
gauge…it might not end in disaster.

Larry Crutcher
Starlight Solar Power Systems



On Jul 18, 2013, at 1:11 PM, Drake drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org wrote:

Tom,

The batteries usually reach absorb voltage shortly after the sun hits the 
array. The reason the bank wasn't working correctly is that one cell was dead 
in one of the batteries. 

I could increase the absorb time to 4.6 hours and the voltage to 29.6, 
especially since the bank has a new battery. That is longer and higher than I'd 
previously heard recommended. What would be the effect on water consumption?  
How did you calculate the absorb time? 

Thanks,


Drake 

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-07-18 Thread Drake

Are they too inefficient for off grid?

Drake

At 05:53 PM 7/17/2013, you wrote:

for standby (bbgt) systems, please consider wet cell lead calcium 
cells. i have a 23 year old set still going strong.


lead antimony will go 12 years... if you are lucky!



todd









On Wednesday, July 17, 2013 2:06pm, Drake 
drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org said:


snip
They have been a standby for this type of system. If they truly are 
not lasting as long as previously, what other options do we have for 
a reasonably priced, decent quality battery in that amp hour range?


Thanks,

Drake



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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-07-18 Thread toddcory

inefficient? they are better then lead antimony, but are considered 'shallow 
cycle', so i never take them down more than 50%.
 
todd
 
 
 
 
On Thursday, July 18, 2013 5:44am, Drake 
drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org said:


Are they too inefficient for off grid?

 Drake 

 At 05:53 PM 7/17/2013, you wrote:

for standby (bbgt) systems, please consider wet cell lead calcium cells. i have 
a 23 year old set still going strong.

 lead antimony will go 12 years... if you are lucky!

 

 todd

 

 

 

 

 On Wednesday, July 17, 2013 2:06pm, Drake 
drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org said:

 snip
 They have been a standby for this type of system. If they truly are not 
lasting as long as previously, what other options do we have for a reasonably 
priced, decent quality battery in that amp hour range? 

 Thanks,

 Drake



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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-07-18 Thread jay peltz
Hi Todd

Where can we find info and pricing?

Thanks

Jay 

Peltz power

 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-07-17 Thread Drake

Hi Tom,

These are Trojan L-16E batteries, 370 AH.  They 
have a 2 hour absorb cycle at around 29.3 
V.  There is one series string of 4 batteries in 
a small, off grid cabin that is used  3 or 4 days 
a week.  The system has 980 Watts of PV with an 
Outback FM 60 CC and an Outback 3524 VFX inverter.


I was concerned to read that John and Bob have 
been seeing more problems with the Trojan L-16s 
lately. They have been a standby for this type of 
system. If they truly are not lasting as long as 
previously, what other options do we have for a 
reasonably priced, decent quality battery in that amp hour range?


Thanks,

Drake


At 09:54 AM 7/16/2013, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/related;

boundary=_004_66ba8ba32edb46a18046d46a3a83c95cBLUPR05MB165namprd05pro_;
type=multipart/alternative

Hi Drake

The first thing I would look at is how the 
batteries are being charged… Can they even be 
charged by the present equipment? What is the 
Bulk/Absorb voltage and time? Equally important 
is the design of the bank… series or 
series/parallel and if parallel how many 
strings. Lastly which Trojan L-16 are these?


Tom Duffy
Senior Solar Design Engineer
Real-logo-X-195

Toll Free 888-895-8179
mailto:t...@thesolar.bizt...@thesolar.biz
Customer Service and Accounting 888-895-6810
Grid tie sales 888-895-7847
Off Grid sales 888-895-4058
Other Product Sales 888-895-9612
Central America Sales (Panama) 507-6-126-1253
Shipping and Receiving 888-895-6497
Tech Support 888-895-8179
SKYPE:  thesolarbiz

From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Drake

Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 8:59 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

Hello Wrenches,

A 1 1/2 year old bank of Trojan L-16s had a 
battery with a dead cell. I have heard that 
there have been some complaints about the L-16s 
lately.  Has anyone had experiences with Trojan 
L-16s (or the RE series), good or bad?  Are they 
still a good choice to use in off grid systems?


Thanks,

Drake

Drake Chamberlin
Athens Electric LLC
OH License 44810
CO License 3773
NABCEP Certified Solar PV
740-448-7328
http://athens-electric.com/http://athens-electric.com/



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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-07-17 Thread toddcory

for standby (bbgt) systems, please consider wet cell lead calcium cells. i have 
a 23 year old set still going strong.
lead antimony will go 12 years... if you are lucky!
 
todd
 
 
 
 
On Wednesday, July 17, 2013 2:06pm, Drake 
drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org said:


snip

They have been a standby for this type of system. If they truly are not lasting 
as long as previously, what other options do we have for a reasonably priced, 
decent quality battery in that amp hour range? 

 Thanks,

 Drake



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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-07-16 Thread Tom Duffy
Hi Drake

The first thing I would look at is how the batteries are being charged... Can 
they even be charged by the present equipment? What is the Bulk/Absorb voltage 
and time? Equally important is the design of the bank... series or 
series/parallel and if parallel how many strings. Lastly which Trojan L-16 are 
these?

Tom Duffy
Senior Solar Design Engineer
[Real-logo-X-195]
Toll Free 888-895-8179
t...@thesolar.bizmailto:t...@thesolar.biz
Customer Service and Accounting 888-895-6810
Grid tie sales 888-895-7847
Off Grid sales 888-895-4058
Other Product Sales 888-895-9612
Central America Sales (Panama) 507-6-126-1253
Shipping and Receiving 888-895-6497
Tech Support 888-895-8179
SKYPE:  thesolarbiz

From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Drake
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 8:59 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

Hello Wrenches,

A 1 1/2 year old bank of Trojan L-16s had a battery with a dead cell. I have 
heard that there have been some complaints about the L-16s lately.  Has anyone 
had experiences with Trojan L-16s (or the RE series), good or bad?  Are they 
still a good choice to use in off grid systems?

Thanks,

Drake

Drake Chamberlin
Athens Electric LLC
OH License 44810
CO License 3773
NABCEP Certified Solar PV
740-448-7328
http://athens-electric.com/

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[RE-wrenches] Trojan L-16s

2013-07-15 Thread Drake

Hello Wrenches,

A 1 1/2 year old bank of Trojan L-16s had a battery with a dead cell. 
I have heard that there have been some complaints about the L-16s 
lately.  Has anyone had experiences with Trojan L-16s (or the RE 
series), good or bad?  Are they still a good choice to use in off grid systems?


Thanks,

Drake

Drake Chamberlin
Athens Electric LLC
OH License 44810
CO License 3773
NABCEP Certified Solar PV
740-448-7328
http://athens-electric.com/http://athens-electric.com/

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