Does anyone have a copy of the service manual for a Standard RPT21 UHF
Repeater?
Thanks,
Mike
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I have both a vhf and uhf Micor repeater that I'm interfacing.
I now know a whole lot more about Micor repeaters than I really wanted
to. The short version of the problem is as follows:
The COS signal from the audio/squelch board goes away when the TX is
enabled. If you transmit a continuous
I am looking for a repeater controller for a portable project. Need a
basic controller that requires NO internal connections can speaker
output into the controller, has its own audio driven PTT. Need a quick
way to link two handhelds or low power mobiles.
gary
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I'm not sure if I'm undertsanding correctly, but you're saying that the UHF
repeater works fine with either A/S board, but the VHF one doesn't? If so,
it sounds to me like you have a VHF base station and not a VHF repeater, and
my first guess is you didn't remove the diode that mutes the receiver
Some of the module/card or back-plane jumpers are set
for base station (half duplex) operation.
skipp
let_cyber [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have both a vhf and uhf Micor repeater that I'm interfacing.
I now know a whole lot more about Micor repeaters than I really wanted
to. The short
Was the original final transistor heat sink only anchored
to the transistor case by a pressure fit?
Did you try to firmly anchor the original heat sink with
some type of insulated mounting hardware?
skipp
Bryan Fields [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
As we have had many issues with our 220
At 1/29/2006 11:37 PM, you wrote:
About 8 years ago, I tried using a Comet GP-9 antenna combined to serve two
repeaters, one on 2 meters the other on UHF. I found the GP-9 worked FAR
better on 2 meters than on 445 MHz.
I was running good GE Mastr Pro repeaters, good pass/reject duplexers, good
I have a 2 meter 440 system running off of one
in a very similar layout to yours (antenna only a few feet above the
equipment); the 440 outperforms 2 meters as expected. No desense
on either band.
Hmm..
It may be that mine is broken then. Wouldn't surprise me a great deal.
Something
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Was the original final transistor heat sink only anchored
to the transistor case by a pressure fit?
Did you try to firmly anchor the original heat sink with
some type of insulated mounting hardware?
You'd
-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Dengler
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 12:43 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] New system's in, but a few problems
At 1/29/2006 11:37 PM,
Is the RB web site down? For some reason I can not get to it tonight?
No go from here too, and it's monday now.
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Working OK for me.
http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/
Rich WA8DBW
http://www.wa8dbw.ifip.com
- Original Message -
From: Dave VanHorn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 12:52 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Web Site Down?
Is
At 09:47 AM 1/30/06, you wrote:
I have a 2 meter 440 system running off of one
in a very similar layout to yours (antenna only a few feet above the
equipment); the 440 outperforms 2 meters as expected. No desense
on either band.
Hmm..
It may be that mine is broken then. Wouldn't
Ok, it's been a long weekend, and the correct URL is:
http://www.repeater-builder.com/
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It's been fine for me several times today, including
one minute ago at 15:13EST Monday 30-Jan-06.
Bob M.
==
--- Dave VanHorn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Is the RB web site down? For some reason I can
not get to it tonight?
No go from here too, and it's monday now.
So you may want to put a termaline on the top of the feedline as part
of your site tests.
I'll give it a try. The feedline is new, just put up in december, but
it's worth checking.
BTW, I've seen bad heliax-to-antenna jumpers do the same thing, so
try the termaline after the jumper as
This one is a bit funny..
As part of the big project this weekend, I had this UHF amp with
output on a pigtail with a BNC male on the end. I needed to connect
with the UHF cans about 6 inches and 180 degrees of bend away, but
didn't have the bits to make that cable, so I used some
Does anyone have a spare manual for the rock-bound VHF GE DELTA? The
one that I have, is a 40 watt unit.
Thanks for any assistance
AC0Y
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BNC connectors are constant impedaqnce connectors so are type Ns but
UHF (PL259s)are not. Oh, Right angle connectors are the worse for
loss.
73
AC0Y
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Dave VanHorn
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
This one is a bit funny..
As part of the big project this
At 1/30/2006 12:50 PM, you wrote:
This one is a bit funny..
As part of the big project this weekend, I had this UHF amp with
output on a pigtail with a BNC male on the end. I needed to connect
with the UHF cans about 6 inches and 180 degrees of bend away, but
didn't have the bits to make that
Well, yes and no... you are right to think along
the lines of the isolated or emitter-case (the
emitter lead grounded) transistor being a better
solution.
One could use a Delrin, Teflon, G4 or G10 material
to firmly secure the original heat sink. The added
capacitance should be minimal if
You think the adapter loss is nutty, try different
kinds of good coax and rigid line to see that it
also changes things quite a bit.
For tight spots, consider superflex 1/4 or 3/8
in hard line. I actually use the mini 141 rigid
line for modest power levels.
Avoid trying to use foam
Try to find silver-plated BNC connectors.
As usual, it's a mixed bag.. I have a silver F-F with even an UG number
on it, but the male connectors are plated, even the one that came with
the motorola amp.. I also noticed that the daniels gear all runs
plated connectors, and I haven't seen
For tight spots, consider superflex 1/4 or 3/8
in hard line. I actually use the mini 141 rigid
line for modest power levels.
FSJ1-50 now in every cable except my adaptor mess (soon to be replaced)
and the 2M duplexer harness.
Avoid trying to use foam center cables where
possible.
Bob, what's your opinion on right angle silver plated N connectors at
900 Mhz? Mike
Bob Dengler wrote:
At 1/30/2006 12:50 PM, you wrote:
This one is a bit funny..
As part of the big project this weekend, I had this UHF amp with
output on a pigtail with a BNC male on the end. I needed to
In sharp bends, the softer center foam conductors
will migrate from the center over time and with
modest heat. Feedline/coax with soft foam centers
outside in the summer sun is a serious potential
trouble maker.
skipp
Dave VanHorn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Avoid trying to use foam
Hey, Mike, long time no yak. How ya doin?
N connectors are great at 900 MHz. If you're really concerned, you
can buy the fancy stainless steel precision ones that cost a bunch
more than the chromed brass ones. Make sure you install them
strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions.
On Monday 30 January 2006 04:21 pm, skipp025 wrote:
Also note the original transistor had more output,
so one would have to also take that into consideration
No, it would drop off to just under a watt after 10 min. The replacement does
2.3 watts after 1 one hour, so it's got more output as far
Well forget looking for Tower Repeater Sites Maybe this will Work As A
Alternate
http://tinyurl.com/7mwdh
Happy Repeater Building
73 De Don KA9QJG
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Anyone know a
repeater builder in Lancaster Pennsylvania area that could help me build a
repeater?
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For folks might want to listen for the SuitSat on their 2M rig or remote
base:
http://science.nasa.gov/headlines/y2006/26jan_suitsat.htm
Kevin
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Can you also have problems with desense with fittings being hand tight between the diplexer and antenna
Thank You,
Ian Wells,
Kerinvale Comaudio,
www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au
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In sharp bends, the softer center foam conductors
will migrate from the center over time and with
modest heat. Feedline/coax with soft foam centers
outside in the summer sun is a serious potential
trouble maker.
Define sharp. the min bend radius is 1 and none of my outside stuff
is
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, KA9QJG [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Well forget looking for Tower Repeater Sites Maybe this will Work As A
Alternate
http://tinyurl.com/7mwdh
Getting the 100AH battery up there is going to be a problem though..
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Looks good until you get a major atmospheric disturbance like a large fire
or storm or cyclone.
See Ya.
Brett
- Original Message -
From: KA9QJG [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 7:46 AM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Balloons to be tested
Paul Holm wrote:
In this particular situation, the users don't need to hear each other. This
will be used for running a Skywarn net on two repeaters which are not
linked. Only the net control station needs to hear everyone. Users will be
trained to expect this format.
If there's ever a
Gee Skipp, I don't remember having seen any center foam conductors
before, it doesn't seem that it would work very well, especially
with all of that moving around ;-)
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
In sharp bends, the softer center foam
Yep, that was my point as well. Seems like a train wreck waiting to
happen for sure. You'd be better off with one guy just manning two rigs
with their own.
Chuck
WB2EDV
Nate Duehr wrote:
Paul Holm wrote:
In this particular situation, the users don't need to hear each other. This
will
Not really, just use a long cord for a teatherLets
see...what's the voltage drop across about 10 miles of #16 zip
cord;-)
Just give this group a few minutes and we'll have this whole thing
solved.
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Dave VanHorn
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Let's see now, what's the dopplar shift of a spinning weather baloon
with a toaster size payload in a cyclone. As for the storm they just
go up and down faster, with the fire, it just goes up faster.
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Brett [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Looks good
Gee it seems to me that if you have two radios you have the makings
of a link. Just pitch a small controller and a two beams at it, with
some seperation and as little power as you can get away with and it
would likely work okay in an EMERGENCY.
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Nate
Here is an idea the static on the zip cord could be rectified and used to
power the gear. No batteries just a super cap or 2.
Cheers
Brett
- Original Message -
From: Coy Hilton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 9:32 AM
Subject:
Hi Dave, as per my Email I've sent you the first set of scanned pages
from the manual. More later.
73, Ron
VE1AIC
IRLP 2030 VE1CRA
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, ve7ltd [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have looked through the archives for as long as I can press Search
More before I go
I I understand, you are trying to tie two stock Micor base/rt units
together? I think this configuration is discussed in the Micor base manual.
Let me see if I can find it.
This is what was common with a lowband base it was tied to a control link.
Oh I can see the drawing in my head. the pages
Dave,
If you have all these adapters in line feel lucky with only 1 db loss.
Good adapters are sometimes hard to find unless one wants to spend
some real money. The Radio Shack and most at hamfest are
junk...works good on CB I guess.
I've seen barrel connectors with 3 db loss at 150 MHz.
Yea, I use the heck out of LMR-400UF.. Please enlighton me!
Dave VanHorn wrote:
For tight spots, consider superflex 1/4 or 3/8
in hard line. I actually use the mini 141 rigid
line for modest power levels.
FSJ1-50 now in every cable except my adaptor mess (soon to be replaced)
and the
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Coy Hilton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Gee Skipp, I don't remember having seen any center foam conductors
before, it doesn't seem that it would work very well, especially
with all of that moving around ;-)
OH MY GOD! You're right!! My center foams
I've seen barrel connectors with 3 db loss at 150 MHz.
I'd replace the word barrel with the word Broken...
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1. Use only Mil-spec RG-400/U or RG-214/U cable for jumpers and
interconnecting cables,
Well, being a ham, I'm using the FSJ1-50 because it's nicely flexible
(way better than the LMR-400) and I have a ton of it on hand.
3. Use only crimped connectors with silver-plated brass bodies,
I am using a maxtrac at 1/2 watt to drive a 100 watt PA from a MSR
that sustained bullet damage...long story..
While it appears to be fine I wondered if anyone has experience with
using a maxtrac in this manner? I am using another maxtrac as the
receiver. So far good results no desense even
At 1/30/2006 14:51, you wrote:
Bob, what's your opinion on right angle silver plated N connectors at
900 Mhz? Mike
I don't have much practical experience with 900 MHz systems, but since N
connectors are typically spec'd to at least 12 GHz they should work
fine. I may have recently seen 90° Ns
The EIA and TIA both have a spec that virtually all cable manufacturers hold
to. The static minimum bend radius of any cable that meets their spec is
10XD or ten times the diameter of the outer jacket. Under pulling load that
radius doubles to 20XD. The individual manufacturer will state the
Hmm, I don't know what to say. I tried 2 different GP-9's had the exact
same performance. I then replaced the GP-9 with a Diamond
the UHF performance immediately improved, became a close match to the 2
meter.
-- Original Message --
Received: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 11:54:23 AM CST
My
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I lifted the below text from the yahoo rfamplifiers group page,
posted this last week by my friend Dave. It's right on the money.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rfamplifiers/
[paste]
If you are able to measure the SWR
I have Darcom 9000 on 928 mhz , is it possible to covert to Ham
repeater?
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