On Echolink,the Conference Orlando will provide audio qhen their is a mission
going on!
73/s
Gervais,VE2CKN
Irlp 2105 ,2907
Echolink VE2RXY-R and VE2RWO-R
Hi Ronny,
I love a good stump the audience picture.
Hard to make out the photo contents... but!
It's an Ositis Board... made and sold by the local famous
Gus Ositis Communications Company here in Orinda Califorina.
Gus is a really nice guy and electronics wise was way out in
front of most
Thanks Eric,
The harness is factory with 2 crimp T's and 2 crimp 90deg N Males.
Between feed through T's:
Coax centre conductor is 11.25 (12.75 connector centre pin tip to
tip) and .75 Short.
Between the T's and Can connectors:
Coax centre conductor is 3 (4 3/4 connector center pin tip to tip)
The pictured board was Frequency Set with at least one multi
turn mini pot. I believe all the Ositis CTCSS Boards of that
era were frequency adjusted with multi-turn pots.
Seriously, it reminds me of an old aftermarket board.
Does it use round tone reeds?
I created an Ositis folder in the
Hi Ken,
I think you dont have any choice to use many N male connectors to do some
test.
The most critical cable is between the antenna T and the Reject can
connector. Maybe you have a mismatch in your coupling loops, it is very
important to respect the same coupling on each cavity to conserve
Yeah, of course you'd want to order any filter optimized for your
application. Yes, DCI markets products for the Amateur market but they also
have a lot of products for commercial markets. I have indeed used some of
their products (HAM commercial) and have had very good results. Hi-Q
bandpass
I am using this rack mounted receiver on battery power instead of 120AC.
Can someone direct me to a schematic of where to kill the battery
alert beep?
I will be using disc. audio but want to monitor squelch gated audio
without the beeping.
Randy
WB0VHB
Hi Henry,
The 8 channel GM300 units have a different logic board from the 16 channel
units. On an 8-ch radio, pin 8 is CSQ/PL Detect and is active low, no
programming option at all.
Brian W. Poellnitz
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Never meddle in the affairs of
I have been pulling up one end of two caps to defeat the beep and clicks, etc.
Lift one end of C114 and C116 on the power supply board.
Usually you can do it by just removing the rear cover and heating with a
soldering iron and tug with needle nose pliers or hemostats.
The old solder rivets
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