You are absolutely correct ... (at least someone was reading very
carefully...)
Neil
Jim B. wrote:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
There was a factory forced air ass'y for MICOR repeaters? (other than
for the 1/4 KW?) I know a few 100W 2-Meter and UHF 75-watt MICOR
repeaters that
I agree about collecting Micor parts ... goes for GE-cor (Ok, Mastr
II) too. The manufacturers haven't been supporting those radios in
a very long time, you you don't sandbag for the day when you might
need some spare parts, who will?
I nearby friend just unloaded 8 more Micor
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
There was a factory forced air ass'y for MICOR repeaters? (other than
for the 1/4 KW?) I know a few 100W 2-Meter and UHF 75-watt MICOR
repeaters that need something like that, although muffin fans above
the heat sink probably work fine, too. LJ
Are you talking about
Original Message:
-
From: Jim B. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Thu, 03 Jun 2004 10:12:51 -0400
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] buillding a repeater
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
There was a factory forced air ass'y for MICOR repeaters? (other than
I have a problem. I have a micor base/repeater and over the weekend I tuned
it up to my frequency and was testing out and I am not getting any power out
the exciter is producing some power as I can hear the radio a hundred feet
away with it going into a dummy load. the watt meter tested okay on
You should see about 350-500 milliwatts going to the pa deck and the
bias/control line must be connected properly to the station frame. Many
times I see these stations for sale at hamfests with the jumper wire
allowing the pa to run only full-tilt-boogey, which is why they crash
and burn so often
The other comments regarding the control line is a good one but allow me to
pass on an experience I had in converting a mid-split UHF Micor station
(C64RCB) to the ham band. Specifically, it needed to be moved *exactly* 10
Mhz down (it was on 451.875/456/875 and I was moving it to
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