Someone else mentioned the Astron converter.
You can also buy inverters (usually online) designed for 24V input,
and use that to run a small gel cell charger, with an appropriately
sized gel cell. Neither the charger or the battery need to be big,
unless you need to transmit a lot. The charge
That aluminum sloder paste doesn't work either and
just makes a mess of your aluminum.
I'll remember to tell our production guys, as they are soldering wires
to aluminum tabs on Li-Poly cells daily with the stuff.
For those who are inquiring minds and not up to all of the
terminology, what
is a golden screwdriver?
Used to fix things, as in fixed like a cat.
Now that it's fixed, it will never work again!
I used to do TV repair in hawaii, back in the good old days.
Major Mac was a competing outfit. I could always tell when they had
worked on a set before. Broken convergence coils hanging by their
wires, cracked tuning slugs, solder joints that looked like they'd been
done with a Bic.
I've had to work on a number of radios where someone went in
and tightened those screws...
Dad used to get cameras where the owner had tried to fix them.
Once or twice, the victim arrived in a paper bag, full of loose parts
and screws.
Arrgghh...
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, georgiaskywarn
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I know this request has gone out before...so I am asking now ;-)
I never can get Radio Mobile D. to run like it should.
What is it that's giving you problems?
Basically, set up your units first.. A repeater or
Ok, the sector thing is interesting, but we've drifted FAR away from
the question I was trying to answer.
Can anyone direct me to information, or modeling software (preferrably
free) that can predict the pattern of an omni antenna, at various
distances from a large cylindrical water tower?
As is likely the case for most people here, I learned how to drive
with
the steering wheel in one hand and a microphone in the other. If you
can't do that, you do NOT belong on the road!
Ah, but you see we are (largely) engineers, and suffer from the
mindset that the way you fix a
Didn't China take over Taiwan back in the 80's or something?
Not on your life.
A very tense armed standoff has been in place for many many years.
Normally for side-mounting on a normal tower, one wavelength will
get
you close to an omni pattern,
I'm not trying to get to an omni pattern, I know that's impossible.
What I want to do is approximate the pattern that I will get, and look
at that (using RM) against the terrain, and see
--
They promise the moon and almost deliver it. The radios work pretty
well except they shoot themselves in the foot with what appears to
be a 3-cent mic element. So the tx audio sounds like the user has
a sock/rag (or equiv) in his/her mouth. If they get the tx audio
problem fixed...
I was thinking Hong Kongswitch to Emily Latela
voicenevermind...
Yup. Britain leased it from the chinese, and the lease ran out.
I wonder what a country goes for these days? :)
You could ask the guys at Sealand (http://www.sealandgov.org) - but
they wouldn't sell to the Pirate's Bay last week. LOL.
Hmm.. Would be an interesting site for a repeater.
1000' tower? Hmm, let me check with the zoning board. Hey ME, is it ok?
Might be interesting when the weather gets
Wierd, I thought I sent this message already..
Anyway.
I've been offered a site, but I would have to mount the antennas on
the side of the water tower, not the top. That means within probably
3-6 feet of the side of the big metal can.
I have docs from my antenna mfgr for pattern when I adjust
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, gervais fillion
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Dave
gave us the model of your antenna,is it the 4 loops on a 20 feets
mast
antenna?
The VHF is a Telewave ANT150D9, and UHF is a DB-404 (unless I find
something better before then)
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Steve Peg [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
It is what you get when the county takes a free site, when better
ones existed. Cheap, free is always better to people who know nothing
and dollars count.
Well, in my case, we've been looking for two years, and
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Iszak, Mike [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Dave;
Are you able to choose where on the side of the tank (IE, facing a
particular direction) or are you stuck with a specific spot?
I haven't seen the details yet, but as far as I know we can pick the
spot.
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, IF YOUR NICE I MAY TELL YOU
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi all another question do you need 1 0r 2 antenna's on a repeater.
Thanks
Yes!
You can do it either way, but MOST systems use one antenna and a
rather expensive device called a duplexer which
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Which reminds me that I should have mentioned the available scan
of club using a series of yagi antennas around a wide tower to
obtain a quasi omni pattern. You can probably find the info
on the repeater builder
However, if that is all you can get, then go for it. I have seen guys
mount a Rohn 25 type tower on the platform where the railing is, mount
the antenna on top of the tower section(s) and then the top of the
antenna will see over the top of the water tower.
Problem is, there's a fire repeater
More information would be helpful , when you say side is that same
level as
the tank or looking above it with side diplacement ?
The first case, besittin' beside of it as Andy Griffith would say.
More information would be helpful , when you say side is that same
level as
the tank or looking above it with side diplacement ?
The first case, besittin' beside of it as Andy Griffith would say.
Can anyone point me to something that will show me the antenna pattern
for a VHF and UHF antenna mounted on the side of a water tank at
different distances from the tank?
I've been offered a site, but I can't have top mount, I have to go on
the side. I have the mfgr's docs showing pattern
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe Montierth
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The simplest way is just to get the IOTA supply and
float it across the battery. Thats it, nothing else
needed. Get an IOTA big enough to power whatever you
have, and still have some left over for charging. You
The first thing that comes to mind is receiver drifting off frequency.
Try having someone come in at +1 or -1 kHz, and see if they sound
better.
If the TX was off, I'd expect your receiver AFC to follow it up to a
point. But that would be worth checking too.
COULD be an electrolytic in the
It's hard to put into text.
What I'd like to do, is get back to the more omni pattern if at all
possible. The way everything is situated, if I put the antenna on the
side of the tower facing through most of our coverage area, I think it
will end up with too much gain in that direction,
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Depends a lot on the size of the water tank, then the type of
antenna and its mounted distance from the tank. Not an easy guess
unless you have a lot of math background with some serious extra
time.
I can deal
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It's also at the repeater-builder web site on the antenna systems
page, or
directly at
http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/antenna-mounting-
guidelines.pdf
Ok, no that dosen't really get me where I need to
I'm not a big fan of the fiberglass toothpick either.
Put a 5 degree downtilt into radio mobile, and see what it does to
your pattern over flat land. Now look at your toothpick, which is
usually leaning a few degrees one way or the other due to wind.
:-P
I'd really like to change my
I'm not a big fan of the fiberglass toothpick either.
Put a 5 degree downtilt into radio mobile, and see what it does to
your pattern over flat land. Now look at your toothpick, which is
usually leaning a few degrees one way or the other due to wind.
:-P
I'd really like to change my
Currently the temp of the rectifier is about 200 degrees, does this
seem accurate, it is drawing about 6 milliamps at this time charging
the batteries.
Something's WAY wrong here.
Try powering a light bulb with it, and see how it does.
I wouldn't expect it to run more than warm, maybe
Well, in the end, it turned out to be the IOTA power converter.
This is something that didn't show up in extensive testing here, and
didn't show up at the site for a while either.
With modern SMPS designs, you can't really use the term switching
frequency, since the controllers do things like
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
At 5/2/2006 06:56, you wrote:
Well, in the end, it turned out to be the IOTA power converter.
:-(#) I thought you said you tried shutting down the switching
supply.
Yes, there may be another switcher close by. There is a
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Perryman
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I call it the Parts Disease... and yes I have it as well!!
Could I interest anyone in a 3-axis seismograph?? Wait a minute...
I think
that one got away already.. a minor rumbly last year sparked
interest in
I've been looking for some dc low voltage disconnects
and it apears Newmar has just the ticket.
LVD-12-30LVD-12-70 are two very usable units.
Sounds like a 6V relay, and a couple of resistors, maybe a zener.
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--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, David [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Okay sorry about the spelling errors but the coax I have came from
a guy who
moved to Florida a year or so ago via another ham who's call is
k4rjj the
numbers on the heliax are as follows he believed that the guy used
It's a real pity that their motor mounts aren't capable of holding
these up. Of all the antennas that need them, these would be the ones.
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--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Nate Duehr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
david vanhorn wrote:
Look at
http://www.repeater-builder.com/tech-info/effectivesens.html
http://www.repeater-builder.com/tech-
info/effectivesens.html - a
writeup
from Chris Boone
Don't just listen to your State Capitol - TELL them to stop
playing
mommie and daddy and that you don't need it.
Exactly!
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--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, David [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have some hard line I that a friend gave me and was wondering
how to
determine if it is any good? and how to determine what connectors
to get for
it? What to look for to determine this?
Well a big first step would be
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Of course !!
CG = Channel Guard - General Electric
PL = Private Line - Motorola
QC = Quiet Channel - RCA
All are commonly referred to by CTCSS
If this gets too big, it's going to start looking like
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Hellewell, Byron
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi
I received a new KPT-50 programmer for the Kenwood TKR-720 and 820,
and TKB-720 and 820 radios.
The manual for it indicates that the 720 series of radios can be
programmed from 130 MHz up to 230 MHz.
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, David [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
And all I wanted to know was about my hard line it is amazing how
this all
got started I am going to go down and look at the hard line and see
if I can
get any info off it will a mfj-269 analyze the hard line?
It will
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Dick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Dave, the problem with the diplexer that burned up is that its
power rating
was given in PEP and not CW. You need to find one rated for your
total
power in CW. As you know, PEP is a low duty cycle mode in SSB. I
think
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, DCFluX [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Here is an age old question that has yet to be answered
satisfactorly.
What are the CTCSS frequencies derived from? Meaning why are they
what
they are? Like 123.0, 127.3, Why not 120, 125, 130 ETC?
I just asked about
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, DCFluX [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Here is an age old question that has yet to be answered
satisfactorly.
What are the CTCSS frequencies derived from? Meaning why are they
what
they are? Like 123.0, 127.3, Why not 120, 125, 130 ETC?
I just asked about
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Juan Tellez [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
The one with two splits was the TK-710, the 720 can be programed to
full
bandwidth, only needs retuning the front end and the both VCO's..
Ours was definitely a TKR-720. Wouldn't tune into the ham band,
I can send you the parts LIST that you need to change in the TKR-
720S VCOs
(Both TX and RX) to make it a K2 if you would like. That is what I
have done
with both of mine here and they work GREAT!!
Thanks, but no. That's over and done with.
Although the receiver was pretty good, the
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chuck Kelsey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
I believe that at least one of the reasons is that they were chosen
to avoid
musical notes.
It may be that there simply is no easy integer relationship.
I've toyed around with the idea of doing a PL
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
At 08:58 PM 4/21/2006 -0400, you wrote:
You wouldnt hear the sync buzz,your rx is to narrow!
--I ABSOLUTE disagree with this. You can easily hear sync buzz on a
NBFM
receiver.
I know. The narrow bandwidth
Two VHF repeaters in town have been bothered by this from time to
time.. The first, which only occasionally gets it, but gets it LOUD
when it happens, is 146.730- The second (mine) at 146.850- is
getting it almost continuously now, but weak, ranging from will
open squelch (even with PL!)
I use an SG-7900, which diamond tells me that they don't recommend for
mobile use (where ELSE should I put it??)
I had the same problem with the roof metal being too flexible.
I used a Ryobi Weedeater blade inside, as a giant washer, and another
conventional smaller washer on the top. This
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'd be interested in hearing the wav file you recorded, Dave
But bear in mind that your comment that it's not coming from either
repeater could easily be wrong. As a matter of fact, if you're
running a
delay in the
I agree... A quick verify test would be to bypass the delay
line.
I've not heard the audio in what I get on the 85.
The 73 only gets it infrequently, so we'd have to wait months for it
to happen.
Although both machines run RC-210 controllers now, the 73 had the
problem with a cat-1000
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, DCFluX [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
You must cover a search radius of 1/4 to 1/2 of a mile from the
antenna. Problem goes away when you run the repeater into a dummy
load, right?
I can't do that remotely, but commanding the transmitter off does NOT
stop
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
At 04:14 PM 4/21/2006 -, you wrote:
This is pretty likely. I'm almost alone at my site, sharing with a
low power UHF repeater.
---What's the freq(s) of the UHF machine? (that it's running low
power has
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Scott Zimmerman
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Guys,
I think you're missing one detail here. 146.73 minus 146.85 is
1200 KHz.
Twice the
typical 2 meter split of 600Khz.
I'm not sure EXACTLY why it's happening, but the math here has BAD
written all
With the UHF freqs in the equation, maybe something else will jump
out
Well, there are three UHF machines involved I guess.
444.375- at the 73 site, and 441.9 at the 85 site, plus this
commercial one at my site, that I don't have the freq for.
At the 73 site there is normally a 220 machine,
So, where I can hear the wav file?
Can I email it somewhere?
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--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Put it up on my anonymous FTP site. That way anyone who wants to
hear it
can download it:
ftp://ftp.ah6le.net/incoming
Once it's there, I'll move it to the /pub directory so everyone can
access it
It's there,
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Sounds like a definate transmitter being heard by receiver with
audio
delay to me.
Is it always that quieting? Wow
I never hear it as loud (apparent deviation change?) as the 73.
On the 73 it's a grab the volume
I don't seem to be able to upload files at this point.
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--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, DCFluX [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Actually it probably would of been better if I measured in octaves,
but that would of taken too long and not of been so simple.
Just currious, Do you have a AM radio station on 590, 600 or 610KHz
in
the vincinity?
Yes, but now we're debugging a problem on your repeater, correct?
If so,
replace the switcher with a linear supply see if the problem
continues.
Keeps happening with the power supply at my site shut down.
I have a relay that I can command from the controller, to shut off the
AC input to
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Top of my garage door is 10' high ...
Mine's a bit lower than that.
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I do get a bit disturbed when I see the usual guys with the black
cat and texas pride amps. I would expect that sort of thing to be
stepped on pretty quick.
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I'm very happy with my 55A (small) IOTA converter simply connected
to my battery, and battery connected to the system bus.
I'll grant that the IOTA could have been a quieter design, but I've
had NO noise problem with it. I am always careful to connect things
properly though.
Thinking of
Anyone have a working one they'd like to part with?
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While I'm at it, does anyone know the magic formula by which the PL
tones are generated? This would be in the form of PL=(Xtal / X)/Y
where X and Y are whole numbers and Xtal is something like 1.000 MHz
or 3.579 MHz
I've seen this somewhere, but I can't recall where.
Yahoo! Groups
The diode is needed because some power supplies have a tendency to
go into a crowbar shutdown mode if the AC input goes away (as
during a power failure) while a DC voltage is maintained at its
output by a battery. Such an event will blow fuses and will almost
certainly shut down the
Kugige's evil twin has been busy today!
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I'd like to stick with N connectors on everything. The original
system, such as it was, was PLs on everything, and the interim just
slap 'er in there version had pretty much everything, but I am
getting in converted. The last thing is the VHF cans, which are PL,
but I guess I can leave those
Argh.. Found out what my duplexer problem was.. It wasn't the
duplexer at all (HOORAY!) It was the comet MX-2000D band-split
unit! A small adjustable cap connects the UHF feedline to the rest
of the bandsplit filters. Or at least it used to. It's carbonized
carcass dropped out of the
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, John J. Riddell
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
David, the Fix for a Maggiore repeater working in to a
duplexer becoming a comb generator
is to put a small antenna tuner between the TX and the duplexer.
We fixed a problem here by doing that.
Tuning the
A quickie on how the maggiore squelch circuit works. (when/if it
decides to.)
The five transistor chip is the heart of it, but not all of it.
The first transistor is just a linear amplifier.
The second is biased class C, and interacts a bit with the third.
The third is a little interesting,
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi folks
I know the stock answer, but I'm looking for the non-stock one :-
) (and
yes, I've read the manual!).
But I was wondering (and checking my rationale here). in many
Bp/Br
cavities, the notch tuning
Our club 220 machine has been giving a lot of trouble with the squelch.
The problem is that the squelch works fine for a while, then quits.
By that I mean that it will not squelch even with no input signal at
all. No real clues, and the schematic is not very helpful.
Any ideas?
Anyone know how much power this Br-Br duplexer is designed for?
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I just got one of the newer Daniels MT-3 synthesized receivers over
onto the 440 band.
FWIW, here's what you have to do:
When you open the receiver, you'll see the preselector, which will need
to be retuned. Do the obvious thing there, the best you can with the
equipment you have. DONT
Well, I should be able to answer those questions soon, as my Sinadder
just arrived. No time to play tonight, but ASAP.
I did a quick check, plugging it into the tone out on my HP generator
where it shows 20dB with the 1kHz tone on, and 0 with the 400Hz tone
on, pretty much as expected.
So I snuck in a minute to play with the new toy.
If my meter is reading right, I'm at 0.24uV for 12dB sinad.
I tuned by ear, and got 0.26, so not THAT bad, but with the meter I
don't have to listen to the tone and noise that drives me nuts.
This is a Hae Dong meter, there are more on Ebay for
Just search on sinadder
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Ok, I wasn't thinking in this direction before, but I do have an audio
band spectrum analyzer handy.
Question is, how can I translate this to a Sinad measurement?
Looking at the receiver in question now, the second harmonic of the
1kHz tone is -40dB, and the noise is at about 5dB below that.
It sure makes a difference when things are designed for low power.
My whole daniels rig, receivers and transmitters for 2M and 440, draws
about 80mA at idle. I have a mobile radio that I use for a control
link, which draws about 300mA at idle.
In the daniels, there's a lot of attention paid
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bob M. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
I recall reading somewhere that the SINAD measurement
is the residual signal after the 1kHz tone has been
filtered out.
Right
When that level gets to 12dB
below the no-signal noise level, you've reached the
point
I've noticed that I can get a lot better sensitivity on my receivers if
the source I'm measuring against is either unmodulated, or I set the
deviation to 1 or 2 kHz. When I get up to 3-5 kHz deviation, the
apparent sensitivity of the receiver is significantly less.
I notice this on many
Depending upon the symmetry of the IF and detector component
responses,
there will be a difference in the apparent sensitivity with
different
deviation levels. The operative word is apparent. If you intend
to use
the receiver for FM voice which averages about 3 kHz deviation,
then you
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bob M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I thought that's the whole idea behind the SINAD
measurement method, and why it's so much better than
the 20dB quieting method.
It may well be, but for those of us without sinadders, then what?
Yahoo! Groups
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chuck Kelsey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
But you say that the VSWR is good?
To the antenna, yes. Cans, I don't know and I suspect not.
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Anyway, you may have to get a receiver and build something to decode
the
yelp. If you find a simple way, I'd be interested in adding it
again to my
repeater network.
Why would you need more than a receiver, and the equivalent of a VOX
ckt? If you have carrier on 121.5, and there's audio
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Lemme see... Doesn't the TLE amplifier have an internal circulator
and dummy
load?
Not that I can see. I could be wrong.
If this PA was pumping 100 watts into an antenna system that was a
very poor match due
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chuck Kelsey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Well, I thought you said that you changed cabling and that's when
this
started happening.
I had a cable on the input to the duplexer, that went to the power
amp, that was a nasty chain of adaptors. I replaced
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Burt Lang [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Is it the interconnect cable that is heating or is it the can that is
heating and transferring heat to the cable?
No, the cans themselves are cold.
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--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jeff DePolo [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Now the new cable is in place, and that power that was getting
turned
into heat is getting delivered to the cans. But, something smells
funny, and the interconnect cables between the cans are noticably
It all started when we went up to replace a failing antenna, and a
mess of adaptors..
The antenna is a GP-9 that had some water in it, and was slowly
turning into a dummy load. I'd had the UHF system running into it
through the band coupler with the VHF system, but I could see the
output on
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, JOHN MACKEY [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
It has been said that you aren't a REAL HAM until you have passed a
20 WPM
morse code test have the license to prove it.
A lot of things have been said.
Some of them are true.
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why do Hams NOT use an amplified microphone in the
FM mode
Most of my fm radio mics are amplified. Most of yours
are probably amplified with an electret element.
But not nearly enough buttons and knobs! :)
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--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Perryman K5JMP
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have to side with Joe on this one. Having spent time as an Army
communicator in some of the worst $#*!-holes on earth with lives on
the
line... it is the content of the message that has to be
Yup, a sheet full of dots and
dashes. Then she went back and translated each Morse
character to it's appropriate letter, number, or
punctuation.
As far as I'm aware that's legal per the FCC.
It's not up to the VE groups to arbitrarily tighten the requirements or
change the testing
It IS probably legal per the FCC, but do you think
they'd give you all that time to decipher the dots and
dashes if you went to an FCC office 30 years ago for a
code test? They'd laugh you right out of your chair.
The rules were different then, and they don't apply now.
However, I have seen
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