Hello,
I am looking for an intake manifold for a 1500cc engine.
I am planning to setup a fuel injection system, I got some injector this
morning from my nice mechanic (our of a dodge neon), but I am now in
need of intake manifold to mount them on (with or without carburetor, it
could be a Stromber
Hey Guys,
Guess What? The problem was simply a one size fits all float bowl gasket
for the 150 CD Strombergs. Seems the float on these early Stromies was
hanging
up on the edge of the slightly oversize gasket. Trim job and all is well.
Heading into the 6-PACK Trials now right here in NE O
At 09:13 AM 9/26/2006 +0100, Gosling, Richard wrote:
>C) Particularly if you don't have a hard-top (and really even if you
>do), bolt or weld a brace across the top of the door gap before you
>start cutting anything out
Be sure to use a piece of angle iron "L". Otherwise the bar will not
have a
It's not so much the length of the arm as where it is located. The radius
rod and the axle move together, creating a virtual a-arm. The mounting
point of the radius rod and the location of the axle u-joint define the line
around which the suspension will pivot.
In an ideal world, they would
Nolan: I see your point if the swaybar's arms are SHORTER than the
radius rods the swaybar would replace, but would toe changes be any
different than they are (with separate radius rods) if the swaybar's
arms are the SAME LENGTH as the Spit's radius rods?
(I could remove a leaf to soften up the re
For a good, cost effective shock, check our website for our Pro shocks.
Multivalve with slightly more bias on rebound. This way the car will
come down slightly faster on acceleration and take slightly longer to
return on rebound. This keeps a little extra weight on the rear wheels
for better
For generic bobbling down the road, Monroe or such will do just fine. They
are a cheap oem type shock. While they are known for leaking seals, you'll
probably get years work of use in a limited driving application.
Now if you like to tear down back roads, think autocrossing is fun and such,
I am going to look at the KYB's based on all the great input from the
list I think I'll take the air shocks off the back and put some KYB's
on. I just need a little lift to get rid of the squat from the rear.
Does anyone have a model number/Stock number for a set that will fit a
76 Spitfire?
Rega
It'll work. As shown you'll have tremendous toe changes with suspension
motion. But, with the Spitfire rear suspension, you'll have no flexing
because of the overly strong spring for the minimal weight. While minimal
in car speak, the weight will present a tremendous load for the CX500
engin
Without the sills, there is nothing to stop the car sagging in the
middle - and you don't want that to happen! So
A) Finish one side before you start cutting anything off the other side
B) If you have a hard-top, fit it, to add stiffness
C) Particularly if you don't have a hard-top (and really
You're describing a pre-Super (i.e., a Standard) Beetle front
suspension, Paul. Super Beetles don't use the twin torsion tube beams
of the Standards; they have McPherson struts (with coil springs),
control arms that pivot up/down from the framehead, and a front swaybar
that resists roll and also l
See intermittent responses below:
--- Charlie Schlismann wrote:
> . . . If I'm reading your drawing correctly, your new
> subframe has, in essence, replaced the radius arms. . . .
Actually, the radius rods are replaced by the VW SWAYBAR - the new
subframe (red) simply connects the bike frame (bla
Google is your friend:
Gas-a-Just shockKG9125 Front (Exc.Plus)
$83.65
Gas-a-Just shockKG3198 Rear(Exc.Plus) $42.71
Doug
--- "Stasyszen, Jerry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I am going to look at the KYB's
13 matches
Mail list logo
