http://www.zmag.org/content/showarticle.cfm?SectionID=13&ItemID=4774

Happy New Years: And Be Careful What You Eat

by Maria Tomchick
December 30, 2003
 
GLOBAL ECONOMICS

In the days following the discovery of mad cow disease in Washington 
State, the U.S. cattle industry has been hard at work trying to calm 
Americans' fears about tainted meat. Our weak regulatory agencies -- 
the Food and Drug Administration and the U.S. Department of 
Agriculture -- keep telling us that they're doing a good job of 
protecting us from the ravages of bovine spongiform encephalopathy 
(BSE).

But they're wrong. And since most of us don't know where our food 
really comes from, it's hard to know what's true and what isn't. So 
here's a little wake-up call, in case you're wondering if you've 
eaten tainted meat.

I grew up on a dairy farm in Washington State. It was a family farm 
that had about 100 cows and an equal number of young livestock 
ranging in age from newborn calves to two-year-old heifers ready to 
give birth to their first calves and enter the milk herd. About 120 
cows was the maximum number for us; we simply couldn't milk more 
animals in a day. There was only so much time, and we had only so 
much energy. We used some mechanization, but we still had the ability 
to give the cows a certain amount of individual care, to help the 
ones that were sick, and to adjust the milking process for cows who 
needed special attention.

What made this particularly important is that my parents were career 
dairy farmers. Mom didn't have a secretarial job in town and Dad 
didn't hire out to do contract work just so we could make ends meet. 
My parents made the business work for them from the 1960s through the 
mid-1980s while they raised a family. By the time they sold the farm, 
however, there were fewer and fewer families able to make a living on 
a dairy farm. They were being displaced by large, commercial, highly 
mechanized, corporate dairy farms.

The cow that tested positive for BSE came from a large corporate farm 
in Mabton, Washington. The farm has 4,000 animals. Our local 
newspaper here in Seattle ran a front-page photo of the feed lot on 
this farm. It was a filthy hole -- a far cry from the loafing sheds 
and green, productive fields we had on our farm when I was growing up.

To milk 4,000 cows every day, twice a day, a farm like that has to 
turn the animals into cogs in a machine. There's no individual 
attention. The animals are hooked up to milking machines with timers 
on them. After about four minutes, the machines turn off and fall on 
the floor, and that's it. Forget the fact that, depending on the 
animal, cows need anywhere from 2 minutes to 15 minutes to give all 
their milk. If a cow finishes in 2 minutes, the machine stays on and 
the animal suffers -- or she kicks it off, which gets her added to 
the list of animals headed for the slaughterhouse. If a cow needs 
more time, forget it, she suffers, gives less milk, under-performs, 
and goes on the list of animals headed for the slaughterhouse.

Back in the 1980s, I remember my parents' shock after reading that, 
on average, cows live only 2 years on commercial, corporate farms. We 
were appalled at the thought that big farms were sending their young, 
4-year-old cows to the butcher. In our minds, that was a failure. 
Cows don't even reach their full growth until they're 5 years old, 
when they hit their prime and give the most milk. The waste is simply 
unimaginable. And we understood that cows can get sick and have a bad 
year, and so we gave our animals a second chance. On our farm, cows 
often lived 10 or 15 years and, in the case of two or three really 
stubborn ones, they sometimes lived nearly 20 years.

Now, it takes about 5-7 years for symptoms of BSE to appear in an 
infected cow. If, however, most corporate dairy farms are sending 
their abused, used-up, broken-down cows off to the slaughterhouse at 
younger and younger ages -- before they reach the key 5-year mark -- 
then no amount of testing is going to make the meat supply safe. A 
ban on butchering downer cows (animals that stagger, can't walk, or 
exhibit other signs of BSE) will make no difference, either. And 
holding sick animals in quarantine while they're being tested won't 
work, not unless we want to quarantine and test all young cattle sent 
to slaughter or ban all animals younger than 7 years old.

"Experts" like to remind us that there have been no confirmed cases 
of Creutzfeldt-Jakob Disease (the human form of spongiform 
encephalopathy) in the United States. That's technically true, but in 
practice, it's a lie. Every year, 300 new cases of CJD are diagnosed 
in the U.S. It's a diagnosis of elimination. After a person comes 
down with the symptoms, he or she is tested for a variety of 
neurological disorders. When those come up negative and the disease 
begins to progress rapidly, the diagnosis becomes CJD. None of these 
cases are ever confirmed, because the only way to test for it is by 
removing brain tissue and examining it under a microscope after the 
patient has already died. Autopsies are never performed for two 
simple reasons: it's expensive to do, and the fear of catching the 
disease from infected brain tissue -- even in the sterile, controlled 
environment of a hospital or laboratory -- is too great to risk 
cutting open the brain case of a person who's already dead.

And we're supposed to rest easy with assurances that the brain and 
spinal cord of the Mabton cow were "ripped" out of the cow's carcass 
in the slaughterhouse by an inefficient machine that often doesn't 
recover all the neurological tissue. The machine routinely leaves 
behind spinal cord tissue to be ground into hamburger, sausage, and 
other products for human consumption, and the USDA admits that to be 
the case. One-third of the hamburger, lunch meat, sausage, and 
processed ground meat made after the brain and spinal cord have been 
mechanically removed from carcasses contains spinal cord tissue in it.

But "muscle cuts" are supposed to be safe, they tell us. Steaks and 
roasts are supposedly free of any traces of BSE. Yet a man in Britain 
recently died from CJD that he contracted from a blood transfusion. 
Tell me, then, if it's in the British human blood supply, why 
wouldn't it be in the blood of infected cattle, and therefore in 
"muscle cuts" like steaks and roasts?

Cooking, which kills e coli, doesn't do a damn thing for BSE. It's 
not a bacteria or virus; it's a prion, a very simple, extremely 
durable protein that can't be killed by freezing or extreme heat. 
Researchers have put prions into autoclaves to try and kill them, but 
they survived. So the slaughterhouse process of rendering down 
miscellaneous parts of the cow -- a process that involves extreme 
heat -- isn't enough to kill prions. When the USDA tells us that the 
brain and spinal cord of the Mabton cow were rendered down for use in 
cosmetics or feed for pigs, chickens, and pets, they're just not 
telling us that the prions may still enter the human food chain -- a 
little further down the line than we expected.

We're supposed to believe that pigs don't get mad cow disease. But 
pigs, particularly pigs on enormous corporate hog farms, have an even 
shorter life span than cows do.

And then there are chickens. Here's a nightmare for you, particularly 
for any vegetarians and vegans reading this article. Experts say that 
chickens' digestive tracts can't absorb prions, and the prions pass 
right through into their manure. But organic farms often use 
fertilizer made with chicken manure, and many organic packaged 
fertilizers for home gardens have chicken manure in them. Remember 
that the next time you let your toddler play in the garden, or the 
next time you juice a carrot without scrubbing it first.

The experts will tell you I'm being overly alarmist, that I'm talking 
about unproven theories. They like to point to what they know: that 
cows can only get BSE from eating feed with infected cattle tissue in 
it. U.S. and Canadian companies were banned from that practice way 
back in 1997, so everything's just fine now. Downer cows are tested 
at the slaughterhouse, meat can be recalled, the safeguards are all 
in place.

Don't bet on it. First of all, BSE emerged in the British cattle 
population in the 1980s. The U.S. cattle industry resisted any ban on 
putting cattle parts into cattle feed for well over a decade, which 
has raised the risk of BSE infection here in the U.S. The Mabton cow, 
it now turns out, was six years old -- born just before the ban went 
into place in 1997.

Post-1997, the USDA was put in charge of inspecting feed mills to 
make sure they comply with the ban, but its enforcement powers have 
been gutted by successive federal budget cuts and by employing people 
with close ties to the very agribusiness companies they're supposed 
to regulate. For example, one feed mill here in Washington State -- 
the one my parents used 20 years ago -- has been cited for multiple 
safety violations by the USDA, from 1989 through 2002. Each time, the 
company has received a slap on the wrist for violations that range 
from a lack of proper paperwork to allowing prohibited animal parts 
into cattle feed. And it's not alone. Our local Friends of the Earth 
chapter says that as many as a dozen other feed mills here in 
Washington State have been caught violating safety laws, but the USDA 
is not releasing any details about what those violations are.

Meanwhile, the Mabton cow's carcass passed through the system, was 
processed for food, sent to distributors and grocery stores, and was 
almost certainly cooked and eaten before the results of its BSE tests 
were completed and announced to the public. That's how our 
mechanized, inhuman, corporate, non-regulated food supply system 
works.

It doesn't have to work that way. The most obvious way to make our 
food supply safer would be to support family farms over corporate 
farms and to move away from reliance on processed food. But our 
government provides subsidies that benefit corporate farms more than 
family farms. And so BSE, listeria, and killer e coli are just the 
price we pay so we can have 99-cent hamburgers at the local fast food 
joint and an overabundance of frozen TV dinners.

We have common cause with farmers in the Third World who protest 
against U.S. agricultural subsidies. They're fighting against the 
enormous quantities of cheap food that our corporate farmers dump on 
their markets, driving their local farmers out of business. 
Meanwhile, for us, it's a food quality issue: if we could promote 
family farms and more safety oversight, we would have less food on 
the domestic market and it would be more expensive, but the quality 
would be better. Less food on our domestic market would mean less 
cheap food exported to Third World nations, so their own farmers 
could stay in business.

But neither Democrats nor Republicans seem to understand this basic 
concept, or even care about the problem. Both parties have supported 
bills in Congress that throw money into the pockets of corporate 
agribusiness at the expense of small family farms. In the race to win 
over Midwest farming states, candidates from both parties are falling 
over each other to offer more subsidies, gut more regulations, and 
undermine the safety of the food supply.

It's time for a change -- a big change, not a little bit of tinkering 
here and there. A ban on slaughtering downer cows is only a first 
step. We need to ban subsidies to corporate agribusiness. We need 
initiatives that support family farms, that provide debt relief to 
overtaxed small farmers. We need to ban the kind of "technology" that 
small farmers can't afford but corporate farms use regularly to 
increase their output -- i.e., bovine growth hormone, cloning, and 
genetically modified organisms. We need the kind of price supports 
that keep small farms in business, but don't encourage large 
corporate farms to add more and more capacity out of greed and the 
need to please their shareholders.

Those changes won't come soon, but they must come eventually. In the 
meantime, be careful what you eat. Eat local, eat organic, buy from 
your neighborhood farmer's market. It's more expensive, yes, but you 
get what you pay for...and you don't want to be paying for BSE.


Biofuels at Journey to Forever
http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
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