<x-charset ISO-8859-1>Hi Aleks,
Studiing the Fool Proof method - which was to be expected after our last
mails - I read that mixing alcohol and H2SO4 is a way to dry alcohol.
How dry can I get home made ethanol this way ?
How should I do it ?

Met vriendelijke groeten,
Pieter Koole

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----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Addison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <biofuel@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 8:26 AM
Subject: Re: [biofuel] Foolproof method


> Dag Pieter
>
> Maar...
>
> >Hi all,
> >Maybe a stupid question, and with all respect to Aleks, but I am making
BD
> >now for allmost two years, using the single base methode, without
titration,
> >just use 150 liter methanol and 4.5 kg NaOH per 1000 liter used vegatable
> >oil. Let it sit for at least a week and very slowly drain(?) what is the
> >right word ? it from the top through a fine filter. I have never whashed
the
> >BD.
> >I have driven over 140.000 km now without any problems.
> >What would be the main reason to change to the fool proof method ?
> >I am very willing to learn, so I hope nobody reads this as if the fool
proof
> >method would not be better. I just do not know why it would be better.
>
> But you HAVE had your problems, haven't you? If not with your
> Citroen, yet. You couldn't manage to separate the glycerine and FFA
> in your by-product, despite a lot of help and advice here, and that's
> dead easy - as I said at the time, it indicated something else was
> wrong. Then you described your process (using less lye than now -
> only the basic amount for virgin oil, though you use WVO):
>
> >I use 3.5 grams of lye and 150 ml methanol in the process and do not
> >titrate.
> >The mixing takes two or three hours, just to make sure that the whole
> >reaction has taken place.
> >Temperature is 15ˆžC or a bit more.
> >The oil I use is WVO ( soya ), which has been used for one or two days to
> >bake fish in.
> >After processing, I let it stand for a week or more. I don't wash the BD
(
> >not that I recommend this way of working, but in my case it works OK ).
> >The pH of the BD is just over 7.
>
> Plus that you don't separate the by-product, just leave it there and
> draw biodiesel off the top, and that you measure pH with litmus
> paper, not the best way.
>
> I commented: "Not enough lye for WVO and 25ml excess methanol (12.5%
> stoich for soy) is unlikely to be enough, especially at such low
> temps for only three hours."
>
> I suggested you do a wash test:
>
> > Have you ever tried washing your biodiesel? I'd be interested to know
> > what happens. Will you try this? Put 150 ml of your biodiesel in a
> > half-litre glass jar, add 150 ml of water (preferably distilled water
> > if you have it, or just tap water if not), screw the lid on tight,
> > and shake it up and down violently for 10 seconds or more. Tell us
> > what happens next.
>
> This is what happened next - you wrote:
>
> > Surprised about what happened : 3 layers. The top layer must be BD
> >( same color as it always is ), and than a rather thick layer of
> >white flaky stuf, and a layer of troubled water. pH of the BD layer
> >is still just over 7 (measured with litmus paper ).
>
> I wasn't surprised - well, a little surprised that it separated at
> all, and I'd guess it only did that because you let it settle for so
> long.  "... you now have a visible measure of the extent to which the
> whole reaction has taken place, or perhaps hasn't. That white layer
> should be at most very thin, hardly more than a slick."
>
> I suggested various things you could try next to improve your
> process/product, but didn't try to push you into titration and using
> the right amounts of lye and methanol, heating, and washing: "Other
> people using different oils and in different circumstances might not
> get it to work so well, but that's not your problem, and you didn't
> recommend it."
>
> But you didn't respond, and now it seems you are recommending it. And
> questioning why anyone would prefer to use the "Foolproof" acid-base
> process. The acid-base process is probably the best method available
> because it gives consistently high-quality results, even with
> poor-quality oils, with lower amounts of inputs and producing less
> by-products.
>
> But from the above I can only assume that you aren't very interested
> in the best quality but only in poor-quality fuel, poorly made, as
> long as it doesn't seem to damage your engine. Yet.
>
> You didn't succeed when you tried the Foolproof method. It's not for
> novices, we and others always recommend starting at the beginning and
> learning the basics first, but, rather tellingly, you don't know many
> of the basics, so I'm not surprised you failed. But please don't try
> to put opther people off.
>
> Best
>
> Keith
>
>
>
> >Met vriendelijke groeten,
> >Pieter Koole
> >Netherlands.
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Scott Alexander" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: <biofuel@yahoogroups.com>
> >Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 11:44 PM
> >Subject: [biofuel] Foolproof method
> >
> >
> > > I wanted to try Alek's foolproof method, but the couple of sites that
> > > I've found via the Internet for sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid make
> > > them seem quite expensive.  Presumably that means that I'm looking in
> > > the wrong place.  Where should I go to get these at reasonable prices?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Scott
>
>
>
>
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> http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
>
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>



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