Hi
Some form of base cooling is needed on all of these surplus telecom Rb’s
to keep them from an early death. A great big heatsink could do it. A small
quiet fan and a small heatsink will do it. A somewhat larger fan and no heatsink
will also do the job. Any fan mount should consider the
Hi All,
I used the TAP225K035SRW, from Mouser, and have the PRS10 running again.
In the process of pulling it apart I managed to break one of the glass
thermistors (Mouser replacement from US Sensor, part number 104JG1F). Doh.
Whether it was the lamp temperature change (thermistor) or
Hi
Tantalums can benefit from a 1K resistor sort of “rebuild”. On any part made
in the last 30 years by a major outfit, it should not be required.
Moisture is sort of a weird issue. Epoxy and humidity do strange things. Getting
it back out is not easy. It also combines with the “guts” of the
On Tue, 19 Jan 2016 20:44:15 -0600
"Graham / KE9H" wrote:
> You will need to know the capacitance value. Usually expressed in uF
> (micro Farad).
> Then some idea of the physical size, so the replacement will fit in the
> current space.
According to the schematics sheet
Do tantalum then benefit from being 'reformed' in a similar fashion to wet
electrolytics?
Do they recover from moisture ingress by baking in a similar fashion to SMD
chips that have been stored incorrectly?
On 20 Jan 2016 14:10, "Bob Camp" wrote:
> Hi
>
>
> The only thing I
david wrote:
It's a 2.2uF cap, with a 0.125" lead spacing, and I'm looking for
125dC temp rating. I wondered if there were other characteristics
such as ESR/ESL I need to keep in mind.
You're on the right track. Get the highest temperature rating
available (which is probably 125C), buy
Hi
The only thing I would add to that is:
Get it from Mouser or Digi-Key. That way you have a pretty good chance of it
being one
that really came from the manufacturer you think it’s coming from. You also are
a lot
less likely to get one that has been on the shelf forever and ever.
One
Hi All,
While still appearing to function normally, my PRS10 started to smell:
C900 in the lamp assembly has self destructed.
The SRS parts manual merely says "Capacitor, Tantalum, 35V, 20%, Rad",
so I'd appreciate any advice on what additional parameters I should be
looking at in selecting
You will need to know the capacitance value. Usually expressed in uF
(micro Farad).
Then some idea of the physical size, so the replacement will fit in the
current space.
--- Graham
==
On Tue, Jan 19, 2016 at 4:21 PM, davidh wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> While still appearing to
renovating a Tek 475 'scope.
Regards
Dan (A newbie from Denmark)
-Oprindelig meddelelse-
From: davidh
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2016 11:21 PM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: [time-nuts] PRS10 C900 replacement
Hi All,
While still appearing to function normally, my PRS10 started to smell
nmark)
-Oprindelig meddelelse- From: davidh
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2016 11:21 PM
To: time-nuts-jsktletq...@public.gmane.org
Subject: [time-nuts] PRS10 C900 replacement
Hi All,
While still appearing to function normally, my PRS10 started to smell:
C900 in the lamp assembly has self destr
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