Re: [vintagvw] Porcelain coating redux

2015-04-19 Thread Dave C. Bolen

Guys,

Let's think a minute here.  The engine compartment is filled with air 
containing heat.  You are pulling that(and fresh air) straight thru the 
fan and distributing it around the inside of the shroud at a pretty high 
rate.


The sheet metal is going to be mostly the temperature of the air being 
pulled in by the fan and blown thru the shroud at high speed(lots of cfm).


I would bet that the temp of the shoud itself would closely match the 
ambient engine compartment air temperature.


I don't see that the coating on the shroud would help at all.

Now, a coating on the inside of the cylinder head/cylinder sheet metal 
might do some good.


Just my 2 cents, dave



On Sat, 18 Apr 2015, Kyle Davis wrote:



What I was thinking, and I guess it is wrong, would be that porcelain coating 
the fan shroud would keep heat out of the cooling
system, not vice versa.

Kyle

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Re: [vintagvw] Porcelain coating redux

2015-04-19 Thread Chuck Kuecker
Original VW engine sheet metal was painted s semigloss black, probably 
because it was durable and inexpensive. If the fan and control vanes are 
working properly, the cylinder tin ought to never get hot enough to burn 
you - at least that's been my experience in Northern Illinois and 
southern Wisconsin.


When I built my engines, I always gave the cylinder fins a single coat 
of black enamel. No data on if it helped or hurt, but it looked nicer 
than rusty iron when I had to go into the motor later on. I've never had 
an engine overheat except when the firewall insulation came loose and 
got sucked into the fan once.


Chuck Kuecker

On 4/19/2015 9:39 AM, No Quarter wrote:
We discussed thing a long time ago on the list and I think it was our 
beloved Bob Hoover that did tests with chrome, paint of different 
colours, and then subsequent temperature testing and it was found that 
satin black finishes such as from paint kept the coolest 
temperatures.  Flat black paint on the heads may have been the study 
I'm thinking of.  Ah well blow it - my memory ain't waht it used to 
be!  There was some scientific reasoning behind it though.  
Temperature samples were done with one of those laser gadgets where 
you point-and-shoot.  I was thinking the temp drop was 5 degrees, but 
that 5 degrees coupled with everything else such as properly jetted 
carburetor, thermostat, adequate air-flow, proper timing, etc. were 
the overall key to keeping the engine cool.  You start ignoring the 
small temperature savings here and there and it ads up to a nice 
burned out engine that still looks with the chrome on it (with a blue 
tinge from overheating) LOL!


In the end it's your car and you run it the way you want.  You just 
have to decide how long you want it to run.  If you like rebuilding 
engines annually or even monthly, use lots compression, no thermostat, 
no Hoover bit, stale air shrouds - in chrome - no bottom tins and no 
tin between the cylinders on the bottom (because who needs 'em!  
BAH!), and large P/C combos , cast stroker cranks in an align-bored 
AS41, HUGE cams, and go have fun!  You eventually start to envy the 
grandma who can start up her stock VW and go for a leisurely Sunday 
drive and has time to water her flowers.  You won't have time to think 
while she does. LOL!


NQ




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Re: [vintagvw] Porcelain coating redux

2015-04-19 Thread No Quarter
We discussed thing a long time ago on the list and I think it was our 
beloved Bob Hoover that did tests with chrome, paint of different colours, 
and then subsequent temperature testing and it was found that satin black 
finishes such as from paint kept the coolest temperatures.  Flat black paint 
on the heads may have been the study I'm thinking of.  Ah well blow it - my 
memory ain't waht it used to be!  There was some scientific reasoning behind 
it though.  Temperature samples were done with one of those laser gadgets 
where you point-and-shoot.  I was thinking the temp drop was 5 degrees, but 
that 5 degrees coupled with everything else such as properly jetted 
carburetor, thermostat, adequate air-flow, proper timing, etc. were the 
overall key to keeping the engine cool.  You start ignoring the small 
temperature savings here and there and it ads up to a nice burned out engine 
that still looks with the chrome on it (with a blue tinge from overheating) 
LOL!


In the end it's your car and you run it the way you want.  You just have to 
decide how long you want it to run.  If you like rebuilding engines annually 
or even monthly, use lots compression, no thermostat, no Hoover bit, stale 
air shrouds - in chrome - no bottom tins and no tin between the cylinders on 
the bottom (because who needs 'em!  BAH!), and large P/C combos , cast 
stroker cranks in an align-bored AS41, HUGE cams, and go have fun!  You 
eventually start to envy the grandma who can start up her stock VW and go 
for a leisurely Sunday drive and has time to water her flowers.  You won't 
have time to think while she does.  LOL!


NQ 


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