NQ,
Basically what I did was buy the dual port end pieces, fuel rails and
carefully sized injectors from CB. At that point, you can take almost any
old center section and massage it around to fit your throttle body of
choice...
The thing that seems important is to try to stick with the
original megasquirt spec sensors. If you use them, it just
takes a lot of finagling out of your setup.
I did end up using a late bus fi pump and filter mounted at the rear
and a bus fuel pressure regulator mounted near the #3 cylinder bulkhead
which then feeds back to the tank tee via the original fuel line.
I have run my bug in 100+ degree temps and have never had a problem
restarting. I *did* however rework the tee so that it was larger
then the original ~1/4. I have a new tank to install so will get
a buddy of mine to braze in a new fitting for a proper return.
One warning.I did have to install a RF filter on the power going to
the computer as it was doing a lot of resets from the alternator
noiseeven with a new alternator. Also, if I unhook my serial cable
from my laptop and just leave it hanging, I get the same thing after it
all warms up. Unpluging it from the MS computer removes the problem.
The EDIS replacement is not about the distributor specifically, but all
the slop from old gears feeding it. It will junp around 4 or 5 degrees
while trying to time it. Look at AJ sims site where he discusses it.
The other part of EDIS is that *I* want control of timing. After watching
what modern cars do at various engine loads with timing, I am certain I
can get about 2-3 more MPG out of my engine and make it run better cooler
as well. Right now, I am at about 23-24mpg back and forth to work(50
miles round trip) as long as I can stay out of the turbo(at 10 psi).
NQ, I know the parts from CB are expensive, but they make a lot of things
way easier cause they were designed to fit a vw engine.
Cheers, dave
On Wed, 27 Jul 2011, No Quarter wrote:
Thanks for the message Dave. I really don't care to do original FI. When I
see the prices of the parts for
OE stuff, I'd rather go with off the shelf components. Even those are
priced bad enough. COUGH
I've been seeing all this return line stuff, but I found a diagram (might be
CB's website but not sure) where you use the VW fuel pump (non-submersible)
and you use a TEE at the bottom of the fuel line from the tank so you
basically are just recirculating the fuel to the pump and back up under the
tank. As the pressure drops in the line, then more fuel will enter from the
tank. I also saw a fuel pressure regulator being used in order to maintain
the pressure on the output side of the pump and the extra fuel was then fed
back to the TEE. This way you didn't have to add a 2nd spigot to the tank
and get into more welding, soldering, or brazing on the tank.
I'm glad to hear it works nice. I know fear of the unknown keeps a lot of
people from trying FI and it's kind of been my case, but once I learn it,
(found some great diagrams that spells it all out), I figure I can teach
more people how to do it. I'd love to find a 1.6L FI engine on an American
made vehicle and pull all the stuff off. I think that would make a great
start. So far all I can find is a 1985 Ford Escort with the 1.6L FI engine
and I'm assuming it is electronic.
Also, I've seen this EDIS stuff and how it gives more control over the
spark. I'm not really interested in it because I've found the SVDA dizzy
with an accufire module in it is just the cat's meow. It does everything I
want. The stock accufire won't fit but if you trim off the bottom of the
rotor, it will fit and works just fine. (I'm a cheap old buzzard you know.)
NQ
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