Randy — My 3458A manual specs 12 or 14 gauge solid copper wire for the short,
bunt in to a U shape. I use 14 gauge. Poul-Henning’s comments about thermals
are well-taken — even a simple folded up carboard shield helps. But I think
you’re near the limit.
I use a 8 oz styrofoam cup to isolate air currents around the 3458A terminals
when zeroing with shorting bar
Sent from my 20 Texas sized
iPhone
On Jul 27, 2015, at 2:57 PM, Richard Moore richiem5...@gmail.com wrote:
Randy — My 3458A manual specs 12 or 14 gauge solid copper wire for
I used a 12 AWG wire formed into a U shape for the short and the zero
voltage measured less than 0.2 uV after a good 2+ hour warmup. However, I
am seeing drifts of several uV for the 752 calibration. I was using TV
twin lead to connect the 732 to 752 and 752 to 3458A since that's really
all I
Bill wrote -
There is an application note from Fluke, I think, on using DVMs for null
meters.
Fluke_-_Using_a_DMM_to_balance_752A_Divider.pdf is the name if it.
I think it came from the Fluke Calibration Website.
It is available at
You talked about after an hour of warm up... I never turn mine off unless
I have to... Like to move it, ship it or power outage.
That said do not do anything like this until it has been on for 4 hours
Then run auto cal
Do not take any reading for 5 minutes after you change wiring or switches.
In message canwu9jzp8mb-pfs8qr7kfobyjlgoeuc_0tqjbsvfw1xrnzc...@mail.gmail.com
, Randy Evans writes:
A bit of a false lead. I took the readings after an hour of warmup.
However, after about two hours, the zero reading went to less thatn 0.2 uV,
which seems just fine to me. I guess i
