Um, no that doesn't transfer weight to the front wheels.  It merely reduces
the amount of traction on the rear tires.  The idea is that the rear wheels
will lose traction before the fronts, therefore causing the car to oversteer
rather than understeer.  The trick is not going too far and making the car
difficult to drive.  

Also left-foot braking will help with weight transfer entering the corners,
sometimes allowing you to build some boost as you begin to exit the corner
(especially with an automatic)

Personally, my stock 86 Shelby Charger would lift the inside rear tire out
of the box.  It just didn't really do it early enough to make it helpful :)

Instead of welding on the rear axle, I prefer building an adjustable bar out
of a flat plate running the width of the rear axle.  Clamp this steel plate
to the rear axle using muffler clamps.  To make it adjustable, drill
multiple sets of holes and move the clamps further inward or add more
clamps.  To keep the assembly quiet, simply slip rubber hose over the
clamps.

Having an adjustable bar is especially important here in the NW where it can
be a little wet sometimes and being able to reduce the tendency for the rear
to step out really helps.

Stefan

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Bob Pratt
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 5:33 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: SD> l-body suspension Questions

You can also "box" in the rear axle. It will act like
a larger rear sway bar. Poly bushings in front also
help. I autocrossed my Charger GLHS for a few years
and and with the boxed rear axle I got the pee-ing dog
look just like the VW GTI's, ie, lifting the opposite
rear tire in a hard turn thereby transferring maximum
weight to the front tires. 


 
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