Hi Rob For parallel iron shafts I would recommend you buy 0.373 and not 0.375 inch. I find this works best for over 90% of the shafts and then the fit isn't sloppy. I run my drill press at 195 rpm, but I think RK has suggested even 150 - 200 rpm. A lot of drill presses have 250 as their lowest speed so that is what most people use.
When I reshaft GBB's I ream the bore-through when reshafting with steel shaft. The bottom portion of the bore-through is smaller dia than the hosel top portion. When you try to install a steel shaft it goes maybe 3/4 of the way down then stops. Since there is no hosel to clamp to I just use a battery 3/8 drill with wood reamer. Go through real slow and when you get near the tight fit it will go through like butter. Don't always have to use a drill press. I would never use a drill bit + hand as a vise. I agree with TFlan, for woods use the Letter R (0.339 inch) reamer. I asked RK once if I should buy straight flute or right hand flute. He said buy right hand flute as first option, straight as 2nd option, but never left hand. The reamers are very inexpensive at Wholesale Tool. Stock up on the 0.373 and 0.339 inch. Thanks HarryS (Golf54.com) -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Royce Engler Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 2:16 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: ShopTalk: Walter Hagen Clubs I'll add my $.02 in agreement. Using drill bits can be dangerous because of the tendency of the bit to grab and snap suddenly, even at low speeds. If the heads are stainless steel, the problem is even worse because stainless has a tendency to "gall" instead of cutting smoothly with a drill bit. What happens is that the friction between the bit and the steel head causes minute welds between the two steels. As long as the bit is moving, the welds shear off and you tend to see a buildup of material on the walls of the hole or the bit. At some point, the "weld" doesn't shear and you get really strong impact loading on the bit, and it can literally shatter. Drill bits are designed to remove material from the leading edge of the cutter which is active only at the end, and has only two cutting surfaces that remove material along two radial lines from the center of the bit out to the tip of each flute. They are not designed to remove material using only the tips of the flutes. The flutes are designed to lift the cuttings out of the hole, and although they may seem sharp, they are not designed as cutting surfaces. A reamer has multiple axial cutting surfaces along the length of the bit, and is designed to remove material from the sidewalls of the hole rather than the bottom of the hole. The cutting edges are well supported by the base material of the reamer, and really look like small saw teeth in cross section. Sooooo.....even though it looks like a reamer takes a much smaller "bite" from the hole, it actually turns out to be a whole lot more efficient at turning a tapered hosel into a parallel hosel. Be sure to use a good cutting oil...which cools the metal a bit and also helps carry the cuttings away from the point of the cut. I use a reamer to also clean out the hosel on a reshaft....it will cut only to the size of the reamer, and doesn't "wander" like a drill bit can. If you are drilling out old epoxy, and the bit suddenly hits the steel wall of the hosel, you can also get the impact loading that will snap a drill bit. The key is to keep in mind where the cutting surface is on the tool and what it is intended to cut. Probably more than you ever wanted to know about reamers vs. drill bits, but that's what you get when you ask an engineer a question <GRIN> Royce -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of tflan Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 12:09 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Walter Hagen Clubs You can find lettered, fractional, decimal, and metric reamers at Wholesale Tool, and at most of the larger tool supply houses. Use letter "R" (.339") for woods, 3/8" for irons. Golfsmith sells them, as does B & M. What RK explains essentially is this: Don't use drill bits to enlarge taper tip hosels because of the likelihood of the bit hanging up in the hosel. Use the appropriate size reamer and a good quality cutting oil such as "Tap Magic." Clamp the hosel in a drillpress vise and adjust your drill press to the lowest speed possible - 250 rpm or so. Low rpms, heavy feed, and good cutting lubricant on a good cutting tool should do the job. That's the way I do it and I'm pretty sure that's what RK said. If I'm incorrect no doubt he'll let me know in no uncertain terms ;-) TFlan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob Campbell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 9:13 PM Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Walter Hagen Clubs > Could someone reprint the post where RK was writing about the reamers to > go from taper to parallel irons? Or, forward the link. I'd like to > have that capability. Thanks! > Rob Campbell > > > >Hi Jack and Jents > >For leather grips check out http://www.thegripmaster.com/ (manufactures web > >site). > >Then contact the distributor Danny Seng (member of ShopTalk) > >[EMAIL PROTECTED] > >I have had forged MacGregor JN Muirfield heads restored by Golfsmith > came > >out real nice. > >Using RK's reaming advise it was a snap to ream parallel and install DG S300 > >S/C parallel shafts. > >These leather grips have had a lot of great reviews by a variety of users > >throughout the world. > >Thanks HarryS > >
