It is amazing how some one like RK who depends on science every day to stay alive can reject the use of science in club making. I guess he feels his doctors should go back to the age of leaches and blood letting as a cure.
 
llhack
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: How to pick torque?

Since I have both David T And Lloyd on my "DO NOT READ" list, because I get over a 150 E-Mail posts per day I really don't need to listen to their drivel any more then I need another A -- Hole,  I never got that those two "Know It All's"  were up to until I started reading other peoples posts.    Think of Torque this way, if it did not mean a thing why would "EVERY" Manufacturer mark "EVERY" shaft that they build with the Torque.     I have taken golfers that always sliced or hooked the ball and by just changing the torque had them hitting the ball straight.   In fact I once owned a freq meter and thought nothing of torque, like some idiots we all know.     Well one time I had a customer come into my shop, which was before my Parkinson's Disease, and ask me if I could make him another driver "JUST" like the other one I built for him but with a different head, more like a BB.     I said sure, well the new head was a bit smaller across the face area then his older TM Look A Like so there was less drag. and proceeded to purchase the head and another shaft just like the one he had, same flex and torque.   Well after a good weekend's work out with his new drive Monday Morning he was back in my shop screaming about want a piece of junk I had sold/made him.     I asked him what was wrong and he told me that he was hooking or hitting left on every ball that he had hit and that he had taken his old driver along with him and "EVERY TIME" he hit the old driver he hit it straight.   After checking everything out Flex & Freq the only difference was the head face size.      Plus Torque, that was my very first intro into the world of torques & Swing Weight.    .    Looking the head weights and shaft weights up & making sure that they both were the the same it was then I found out that the toe stuck out .750" more on the TM then the BB giving the TM the higher SW.       I changed the shaft to a higher torque, from a 2.8 to a 4.5 and then all was right with the world.
 
I would like to add that the next time you need some very good advise go to someone who knows what the  hell their talking about and in my book it certainly wouldn't be either one of those self satisfying ego idiots.     Why do you think I have them "BOTH" blocked.     Again, think why would every shaft manufacturer in the whole world go to the expense of the testing, marking and advertising just so some egotistical idiot could tell you "IT DOESN"T MATTER".  You must also remember that these two self proclaimed guru's have an agenda, Lloyd to try and sell you newbees his swing testing program & David just so he has some one to talk with or some newbee to listen to his drivel.   If you think that David is a "REAL" club maker / fitter ask him just how many clubs he builds per year and just how much equipment he has in his "SHOP" (lawn & garden) tool shed.     I know what that answer will be "I BUILD CLUBS ONLY FOR MYSELF AND A FEW, VERY FEW IS MY THINKING, Friends".     From what I've been reading here on Shoptalk and on Spinetalk there is not a clubmaker out there that has "LESS" tools then David.
 
RK
 
Manufacturer's of World Class Golf Club Repair Equipment
 
ps; Lloyd / David no need for you to answer because I've got you both  "BLOCKED"  so I wouldn't get it any ways.  
 
-------Original Message-------
 
Date: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 12:29:04 PM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: How to pick torque?
 
Dave and Mike,

> Bernie,
> Should I, or do you want to?
> Oh, what the hell...

Saw Lloyd's post and thought, "I'll bet Dave will answer that one." But how
can I resist... :-)

Mike, to my knowledge, shaft torque hasn't been shown to play any part in
what happens to ball flight in the .0004 second duration of impact. My dad's
research at Spalding showed head CG location is the determining
factor...that's why there's the same amount of bulge on both sides of the
club face. Might add that if the bulge on a wood face is designed properly,
the head will redirect any of the "geared" ball flight (caused by an
off-center hit) so it ends up on the target line.

I've tried a lot of shafts with torque from 1.8 to 5.0. (RK got me
interested in fitting for torque a couple of years ago.) The really low
torque shafts feel like telephone poles to my swing and I have very little
feel of head location or control...spray shots all over the place. Low
torque definitely is not better for the average swinger, IMO. The higher
torque shafts make impacts with the ball feel mushy, I try to hit the ball
harder and end up with the same wild results. For my 90 mph swing, 3.5 to
4.0 feels just right. My first really long driver shaft...about 5 years ago,
I think... was a Mars CVP-150 S with a torque of 3.8. At 48" club length, I
haven't tried a shaft that felt any better to me, nor was more accurate at
any length than that one.

Bernie
Writeto: [EMAIL PROTECTED]


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