Bernie, I have used the NBP-COG method in reshafting a couple of drivers with SK pure energy shafts. Seems to be the way to go. My method rather than clamp the shaft to the bench with the NBP down was to prepare the shaft, put on the ferrule, put the shaft in the NF2 to find the NBP, then I took the DI off the NF2, turned the NF2 upside-down on the bench, installed the head and let the head turn to the COG. The epoxy sets up in a couple of hours, enough so the club can be removed...df
----- Original Message ----- From: "Bernie Baymiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 6:41 PM Subject: Re: ShopTalk: NBP-COG > Jim, > > Generally speaking...Steel shafts are almost all Type 1, with one NBP and > one spine opposite each other. Most graphite shafts are Type 2 shafts with > two NBPs opposite each other and two spines 90� from the NBPs. The softest > NBP, call it the N1, is the NBP you want to use for the NBP-COG alignment. > When you put a flex on a shaft in free bearings, the shaft rotates to a > stable point...and the NBP is on top. But, you don't know which NBP is N1 > unless you have a way to measure the stiffness of that point. A Neufinder > with a dial indicator to measure deflection is the fastest and easiest tool > to measure N1 and N2, as well as S1 and S2, if you want to know the spine > magnatude. For this NBP-COG alignment, the location and size of the spine(s) > don't matter. You are only interested in the N1. > > > Then when you put the shaft into the housel and lay it off > > the end of the table the spine will point up and the NBP will point down > > towards the COG of the head? Does this sound right? > > If you are using a steel shaft, that is correct. I haven't used this > alignment with any steel shafts yet. Let me know how it works for you and if > you see any differences. My friend Harry used Precision Superlites with this > alignment and found them to hit the ball much straighter for him (a 90+ > player). > > Bernie > Writeto: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >
