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Jim, I would get the drill press from ENCO, for around $275.00, because it has a low speed of 215 rpm and a full 5 inchs of stroke. Now as to which reamers would "I" buy with my money, I'd get a Wholesale Tool Cat. and get a .335, .339, .343, .345, .354, for woods and .370, .373, .375, .377, .380 for irons and, .393, .357, .406, .410. If I couldn't get the exact sizes that I listed I would get the closest reamers to the size. One thing to remember is reamers can open up any hole by as much as .03125 or 1/32" of an inch with out any problems. I would get, if available, only straight or left handed fluted reamers. Lots better for a none machinist to use than a right handed reamer. With a RH reamer you will be pulling the chip out of the hole where as with a srtaight or LH reamers you will be pushing the chip down into the hole and since the CHIP will "NOT" be like a chip you would get from a drill, one long strand, it is a lots better way to go, if possible. Then to make sure that I'm getting the head clamped properly square to the hosel bore i would buy one of my Hosel Reaming Fixture(s) which is the only fixture on the market that is designed to clamp a Peerless or a Cobra clubhead.
Just remember when your reaming out a hole it's, TWICE THE FEED AT HALF THE SPINDLE SPEED, that is required to drill a hole. so lets say you were going to drill a .375 hole in SS, the recommended spindle speed would be, in SS about 45 to 50 surface feet per minute or, a .375 drill has a surface of .1178 inchs. which converts into 382 rpm @ 45 SFPM,425 rpm @ 50 SFPM, with a feed rate of .006 per revolution. So when reaming out a hole your spindle speed would be 190 to 215 rpm with a feed rate of .012 to .018 per revolution Just remember when Drilling or Reaming SS "DO NOT ALLOW THE TOOL TO REMAIN IN ONE PLACE TO LONG. Because what will happen is the work surface, the material that you wish to remove wither it be a drill or a reamer, will become quite hard. Plus, this will happen a lot more times when your drill vs reaming, you must always watch out when drilling a hole not to allow the drill tip to "RIDE" on a chip. What I mean by this is when you are drilling a hole everytime you bring the drill out of the hole make sure that you blow out the hole of 100% of the chips. If you do not do this when working with SS your going to need someone with a Milling Machine to finish the job. That also is the reason for purchasing a Drill Press with a slower spindle speed. Fast Spindle Speed equals bad workmanship plus LOTS of money spent on having some one else finish the job.
RK
KENNEDY
golf equipment
manufacturer's of world class golfclub repair equipment
-------Original Message-------
Date: Friday, December 19, 2003 9:59:20 PM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Mr. Kennedy
I need some advice purchasing a drill press set up, my work shop is progressing nicely and it is time to get a drill press and all the things i will need for repairs and custom building. I need everything, reamers,clamps etc. what do you recommend for a good set up, my budget is around $1000.00. thanks - Jim Letourneau
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2003 10:24 AM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Drill Bit
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Having not ever used a drill bit on "ANY" clubhead I wouldn't know how to help you. Now since a Ping head uses a tappered shaft tip I would first try the 5/16" - 18 tap then if that stilled failed I would start with a .354 reamer and work my way up to a .373 reamer. Never drill out a hole, drills are designed to "MAKE" holes not open them up, that's what reamers were designed for.
RK
KENNEDY
golf equipment
manufacturer's of world class golfclub repair equipment
-------Original Message-------
Date: Thursday, December 18, 2003 10:03:18 PM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Drill Bit
In a message dated 12/18/2003 7:37:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Does anyone know of a source for a drill bit that will drill out a shaft which is broken inside the hosel of a Ping Eye 2 iron?
Thanks,
Jim McFerran
Try using a 5/16" tap and some heat.
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