My favorite technique for building workshop tables is to use 4x4s for the legs, with 2x4s as the stretchers between the legs. You can use lag bolts to attach the stretchers to the outside of the 4x4s, or if you want to get fancy, cut mortise and tenon joints. A piece of 3/4" plywood "doubled" gives you plenty of thickness. Use 2 1/2" flat head wood screws to attach the table top to the base. I usually cut a piece of 1/4" masonite to "face" the top of the plywood, and cut a strip of 1/4" wood to "edge band" the table top. If you use a long top, I would either put another set of legs in the middle, or use 2x6 or 2x8 for the long side stretchers. You could also use 4x6s for the legs to give it a little more heft and strength. I used one of these as a base for my Craftsman wood lathe, and it was very stable. You can build plywood cabinets underneath the table...The more weight you put under the table the more solid it will feel.
Generally, my workbenches end up being about 2 ft wide (half the width of a sheet of plywood). I try to make the height comfortable for the task at hand. For example, I find that I prefer to have my gripping station about level with my elbows. Remember that a vise will raise the working level 6"-9" depending on the vise. Royce Engler -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ralph Harwood Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 10:00 AM To: ShopTalk Subject: ShopTalk: Advice for a table I would like to begin doing more shaft removal. Up until now I have been only using one of those portable Workmate benches to secure my clubs for putting on grips and other minor tasks. I have very limited space to put any decent size table in my basement. My question is what size table should I at the very least have? Does it need to be weighted down? I want to purchase a RK puller but I would need to get a nice vice to secure to a table. Are there tables available in Lowes, Home Depot that would fit my bill for space, etc? Thanks! Ralph
