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John,
I did a short write-up for some clubmakers who asked
me about it some time back...which has some of DT's rationale for using
NBP-COG, some options in using spinefinder NBP or true NBP and stuff
like that. But, in short....
Mark a scrap CD (I use the AOL or other unwanted
disks I get in the mail) with cross hairs at 90° across the center of the shiny
side. Assuming a Type 2 shaft...locate neutral bending plane and spine plane and
mark on masking tape around the shaft near where the butt begins to taper. If
you have a simple spinefinder and only found one point of the NBP, slide CD up
the shaft to your marking tape and use cross hairs to mark point exactly
opposite (you can also mark spine location with the CD), then remove CD. Do
shaft and head prep, set ferrule and epoxy on head. Lay the shaft on a
table with head hanging over the edge. Gravity will pull the head's COG
straight down. Hold the head in that position and rotate shaft until the
opposite NBP mark is straight up. Now, you've aligned the COG of the head with
the NBP you found on the shaft. You can allow the epoxy to cure
in that position if shaft fit is tight in the hosel, or hold the hosel and shaft
position together with a piece of tape when you set the club upright to
cure.
If you want to try S1-COG, which works well for me with large
driver heads and soft shafts to reduce toe droop, do it the same way on the
spine plane. Not sure why, but I get very good FLO most of the time with this
alignment...even with a spinefinder location. Have my 13° Cy fairway driver (45"
club length) with this alignment and I seem to hit it more consistently off
the deck with a bit of draw or straighter than my 15° 3W which is NBP-target
(maybe 35°-40° difference in NBP position).
Hope I didn't forget something. :-)
Bernie
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