I told you about how I do it. I've been doing it that way for years. However, I still have a cut in two soda can that I sandpapered just in case. I think dimpling doesn't do much, nor does smacking the tip out of round. An oval-shaped tip doesn't fit against the hosel wall very well although most every old wood head and iron head club I worked on were dimpled (and mostly drilled through and pinned - if you've worked on those you've seen it). The dimpling then along with the pins made some kind of sense because there wasn't any epoxy that was worth a damn available. You may also recall hosels that were "threaded." And shaft tips that appeared to be threaded. I even ran .370 taps through some iron hosels way back when.
Shims? I used grocery twist ties with the paper still on, or with the paper off, copper wire stripped of insulation - 18, 16, 14 gauge, some solid, some stranded. I tried soda can strips (I did a Titleist bore-through that was drilled off center. I used a soda can strip to fill the hole in the wall.) I tried the commercially made shims but it seemed I could never get the right size. So now, almost exclusively, I use mono fish line. I can't say what the weight is, the one I've been using for the past 10 years or so is wound on a deep sea reel. It was probably 100 yards or more. That's a lot of shims. I put it in the back of the hosel and start the head on to the tip. As soon as I feel some resistance I snap the line off and shove the head up to the ferrule, if there is one. If a single bit of line isn't enough I put a second piece opposite the first bit, thereby doubling the thickness. If that isn't enough, well, a soda can shim (which BTW, I don't like), or some copper wire, or in extreme cases, super thick epoxy like JB block weld works. Experiment a little. There's a lot of suggestions here for you to try. You won't find the answer until you try out a few of them. If worse comes to worse go to the JB Block Weld solution. That stuff works, but don't expect to pull the head easily later on. I don't know what the melting point is but its pretty high, I think. TFlan On Tue, May 20, 2014 at 11:22 AM, Don M <[email protected]> wrote: > I am fixing some Ping Eye2+ irons. Someone reshafted them with late model > Ping CFS steel shafts, and the heads are loose. I pulled one for inspection > and cleaned it up. The fit is super loose, more so than a typical Ping. It > is still tapered, it has not been reamed out to parallel. But I think maybe > the person who did it was too aggressive with cleaning out the hosels and > enlarged them. To illustrate, I cannot tap or hammer the shaft so it stays > inside the hosel. The hosel is too big for that. > > I'm looking for advice, particularly a method of shimming. There is no > ferrule, keep that in mind. NOTE: Down at the tip, there does NOT seem to > be any wiggle room. Therefore a typical brass shim is not going to fit, I > don't think. Maybe I'm wrong about that. Solutions? > > Would it help to dimple the shaft? It probably would help it stay in place > for the assembling, but I'm not sure if it would help beef up the > mechanical joint in any significant way. > > -Don M >
