Hi Chris, Here is the info I used to duplicate the CSPro electrode setup. It is helpful to study the pictures of the CSPro machines in order to better understand the plans. The info is from old email messages. I will simply paste them in. I use a 12000 volt AC neon-sign transformer. The output is unrectified. I use automotive spark-plug leads to connect the transformer to the terminals of my "brewing vessel". Be careful of the high voltage. It is potentially lethal.
*************** The CSPro setup (Bruce Marx) *************** I have copied Bruce's setup exactly. It produces clear and very stable CS. *paste* The way my CSPro Ultra is set up, there is a bar of silver which is about 1.5 millimeters thick and about 10 by 2 1/2 centimeters. It is suspended by two copper wires hanging down from a female banana plug in the plastic top of the plastic container where the CS is produced. The silver bar hangs horizontally from the two copper wires in the form of an inverted "v" terminating in bent ends like the letter "j" passing through two holes drilled in the upper edge of the silver bar. The bar hangs in the water up to a millimeter or so from the copper wires. In other words, the vast majority of the silver bar is hanging in the distilled water almost to the level of the two holes which are drilled near the top of the bar. On the plastic top to each side of the banana plug terminal for the bar at about 3 and 1/2 centimeters is found another female banana plug terminal. A copper wire connects these two terminals. One of the female banana plugs is filled with plastic so nothing plugs into it. Suspended from each is copper wire that is formed into a one centimeter coil (to allow adjustment) and then terminates in another "j" . A short (about 2 1/2 centimeter) twisted piece of silver wire with an "eye" hangs on each copper "j" wire and is set at about 1 or 2 millimeters from the surface of the distilled water (These hang on each side of the hanging bar). When the unit is set up with the cables from the machine plugged into the top of the water container and all clearances are correct (silver bar in the distilled water all but a couple of millimeters, twisted silver wires a couple of millimeters from the top of the water) then I am ready to turn on the power. At that time, if I have good water, the water jumps up and forms a cone around each twisted wire. With really good water the cones are a centimeter and a half wide and a centimeter and a half tall, surrounding the lower part of the hanging wire. With bad water there is only one cone with the other wire arcing or both wires just arc. Of the three different kinds of distilled water I can get in my area, only one is good. It is called TV (True Value) brand and on the label it says sodium content less than .01 mg per 8 oz serving. It is distributed by Fleming Companies, Inc, Oklahoma City, OK USA (Which I include for those who may read this in the US.) Holes are cut in the top of the plastic pail for ventilation > I have a few more questions that I am hoping you can answer: > > What is the diameter of your twisted silver electrodes? I noticed that my small electrodes created a nice water pyramid, but after about half an hour the tips were barely in contact with the water. Does the same happen in your system? I lowered mine to make light contact anyway. Does your manual say anything about this? > > Also, what is the diameter and height of your vessel? And what is the > distance of the bottom of your big electrode to the bottom of your vessel? I'm wanting to create the same convection pattern in my setup. > > I notice also that when I check for the Tyndall effect while the system is running, that the effect is very strong in the regions to the side of the big electrode. But at the bottom of the vessel the effect is very weak to not-noticeable. Do you find the same? > > I just finished my run on the new setup and I'm very pleased. I gave >my CS a stir in the vessel and now the Tyndall effect is visible >everywhere. This setup runs quite a bit faster and much cleaner than any other >HVAC electrode setup that I've tried. I feel that Bruce Marx has a fine design >indeed. Responding to your questions: 1. twisted electrodes are about 1 to 2 millimeters in diameter, i'd say 1.5 millimeters and about 3 centimeters long when new. After several batches they shorten in length and eventually have to be replaced. 2. When I use good water, that is the TV water, the cones stay around the wires during the entire two hours. If I use water that isn't so good, one or both cones drop away after an hour or more and then the side that drops away arcs while the other side doesn't. The cones do drop as the process continues, but as I said, with good water, they never completely leave the wires during the whole two hours. The information indicates that the wires should be within about an eighth of an inch to 3/16ths on an inch above the water. I think that is about 2 to 5 or 6 millimeters above the water. I have found that 2 or 3 millimeters seems to work for me. 3. Diameter of vessel 17.5 centimeters, height 22.5 centimeters. 4. I don't see the Tyndall effect much at all until after 30 minutes to an hour and then toward the top of the vessel only. I stir the water as you do when the batch is over. I do 1/2 gallon (US) batches at a time. After every shift I clean off the silver metal bar with a green brillo pad and I rinse out the vessel and dry it with a clean cloth or paper towel. Look at the pictures on the CSPro site. They are much clearer now than they were a year ago! They will give you a pretty good idea of the setup. I use .999 pure silver electrodes. I make them myself from silver nuggets that come from a precious-metal dealer. I cast the silver in a mold and then fashion the cast silver into the desired shapes. This is not easy to do if you are not equipped and experienced in casting precious metals and using rollers and wire pullers. Your precious-metal dealer will tell you where to buy large silver electrodes. Be sure to specify that they be .999 pure. >Regarding the "twisted electrode". Could you >elaborate in greater detail on what you mean by >twisted? Could it be a 6 cm long wire doubled over >and twisted together along its length to form a 3 >cm long twisted wire with an "eye" for hanging on >to the copper hook? This is the exact way that I make my twisted electrodes. But bear in mind that twisting it shortens it. To end with a 3cm twisted electrode, start with a 7-8 cm piece of wire. I think that my next pair will just be a thicker single wire electrode the same thickness as the twisted one, with an eye bent on the top. I can't see that this won't work. I don't think that there is any special property to the "twist". I have a suspicion that Bruce uses the materials he can get. He does not make his own electrodes from scratch. Maybe he can't source thicker silver wire, so he twists some thinner wire to get the thickness right. Hope this helps. These instructions worked fine for me. Christian -- The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal silver. To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message to: [email protected] -or- [email protected] with the word subscribe or unsubscribe in the SUBJECT line. To post, address your message to: [email protected] List maintainer: Mike Devour <[email protected]>
