The red LED says that machine has taken the electrodes out of their sockets and switched them from side to side...electronically...and is turning most of the stuff that built up on them back into silver ions. The electrodes don't last longer [ to do that, would have to mean less silver in the water ]......they stay cleaner.

SWAP: Square Wave Alternating Polarity.....or.... very low frequency AC output.

Green means the current is going one way, red means it is going the other way.

If the RO water passes the "Water Test" as outlined on one of the instruction sheets, no meter needed..the generator works like a meter. It would be rare, but not impossible, for RO water to be pure enough to pass the test.

If it doesn't pass the test, you may want a meter to be able to tell how long to run it in manual mode to finish off a batch to be sure there's as much "silver" in there as there should be by subtracting a beginning number from the final number.

A meter can't tell the difference between silver and anything else...nor can the generator.
 But if there IS nothing else, that's a moot point.  It's all silver.

Ode




At 11:15 AM 10/10/2009 -0400, you wrote:
Hello.  I have not posted before but read and love this list and learn
boatloads.  I have a Silver Puppy and have been using it for a few
years now.  It is great. Today I decided to try something different.
I always use the DC and Auto settings but for some reason today I
thought I would try Swap and Auto.  (I thought I read it will make the
silver electrodes last longer)  As always, as I put the electrodes
into the water (reverse osmosis) the
green  light got brighter as I inserted and things seemed fine as
usual.  I looked over and the red light was on.
I have never seen the red light before so I switched the DC/Swap
switch to DC and the
green light came on and things seem fine now.  So what was the red
light trying to tell me????
Also, I do not have a meter to test the EIS when done.  Should I and
if so which one?

Thank you,

Pam



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