I can tell you what I use the laser for...Nil beam = nil particles, some beam = 
some particles, strong beam = many particles...particle size irrelevant as I'm 
satisfied ALL particles in a clear or yellow solution are bioavailable.  But 
check the water with the laser before production so you can distinguish if it 
changes at all, and monitor it over the next several days.  If you don't see 
any beam after days, don't worry about it, everythings still OK, as long as you 
get a reading you got something in that water, and to keep it simple, that 
'something' must be silver if you're using Distilled Water.

 

The best you can do is the purest water you can find.  I only use 'el-cheapo' 
DW, oh, and praps a timer so you don't let it brew too long {well, not without 
removing those electrodes to clean them at regular intervals before 
resubmerging them}.

 

Errr....What do you mean by "pretty clear"?  It should be clear as in 'crystal 
clear', with a sheen appearance or 'depth' to the water if you understand, and 
if it's yellow, then that yellow should be only that...yellow, not murky but a 
pure clear and clean transparent yellow.

 

If none of the above describes what you're making, then praps you'd better 
consult a 'guru' as I know nuttin of what you speak <g>.

 

N.
 


From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: CS>where is everyone? now - serious CS questions
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 09:52:46 -0500




Mine is pretty clear and sometimes yellow.Hardly ever dark unless I let it run 
too long. I was told to try and reach 10 ppm. Am I using the best tester? I had 
wondered what the red laser pointer was for and wrote a man who handled them 
but never heard back with any info. What does it do? I want to make the best I 
can with what I am able to afford.
 
Thank you.
Leslie

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Scotty 
To: [email protected] 
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 9:08 AM
Subject: Re: CS>where is everyone? now - serious CS questions





H202 works as I've used it several times to lighten the golden color. But 
Neville is correct yellow is okay in the world of CS. I never throw out CS even 
when I started out and made mud looking CS. I would put it in a spray bottle 
and use it as a disinfectant or water the indoor plants with it. CS as low as 
3ppm is effective so don't trip on the 8ppm. That's been my experience!


Scotty

Have a great day!

 



--- On Mon, 4/12/10, Dorothy Fitzpatrick <[email protected]> wrote:


From: Dorothy Fitzpatrick <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: CS>where is everyone? now - serious CS questions
To: [email protected]
Date: Monday, April 12, 2010, 5:16 AM


Thanks for the reply Neville, but I am afraid I'm not so laid back about things 
as you are <lol> I do like to know the 'whys' and 'wherefores' so to speak.  I 
didn't get a reply about the iodine/CS/DMSO thing which was disappointing--but 
also I now have had two batches of CS go pale yellow for no reason.  
I realize that this happens and there is no one explanation really for it, but 
I thought I would try the H202 thing with it as this is supposed to also be 
beneficial.  i.e. it splits the colloids into tinier fragments (see Ode's site) 
 The first lot  I dropped in two drops of 35% H202 and this went immediately 
clear.  This had a weak tyndall effect however, although it read 10ppm on the 
TDS meter.

The second lot, I put in one drop of 35% H202 and this had a really strong 
tyndall effect - but the ppm was only 8.  This solution is also very slightly 
cloudy.  I put in another drop of H202 and I think it has now cleared.  They 
both have tiny bubbles at the bottom.  Has anyone any ideas or explanations for 
this?  dee

On 12 Apr 2010, at 13:00, Neville Munn wrote:

> Throw the questions out there and you'll soon enough hook one of your 
> 'guru's' <g>.
>  
> Meantime, I'll offer you an individuals assessment on your colour 
> thing...don't worry about it, if you're making good quality stuff {meaning no 
> mud or gravel laying in the bottom of your storage vessels} colour is not an 
> issue.  And the HP thing...shouldn't need it, and again, if you're making 
> good quality stuff why would you want to hit it with HP?  Don't be phased by 
> colour, unless it's a murky colour.
>  
> There ya go Dee, I've filled in a gap til one of your guru's comes walzing 
> thru the door <g>.
>  
> N.
>  


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