If CS is yellow or clouldy it indicates that it has a large number of
large particles. When you add H2O2 it converts the colloid to a
combination of dissolved Silver Oxide and 2 particle colloid, which is
very small particles and will ave very little Tyndall, and be clear.
Marshall
Dorothy Fitzpatrick wrote:
Thanks for the reply Neville, but I am afraid I'm not so laid back about things as you are <lol> I do like to know the 'whys' and 'wherefores' so to speak. I didn't get a reply about the iodine/CS/DMSO thing which was disappointing--but also I now have had two batches of CS go pale yellow for no reason.
I realize that this happens and there is no one explanation really for it, but I thought I would try the H202 thing with it as this is supposed to also be beneficial. i.e. it splits the colloids into tinier fragments (see Ode's site) The first lot I dropped in two drops of 35% H202 and this went immediately clear. This had a weak tyndall effect however, although it read 10ppm on the TDS meter.
The second lot, I put in one drop of 35% H202 and this had a really strong
tyndall effect - but the ppm was only 8. This solution is also very slightly
cloudy. I put in another drop of H202 and I think it has now cleared. They
both have tiny bubbles at the bottom. Has anyone any ideas or explanations for
this? dee
On 12 Apr 2010, at 13:00, Neville Munn wrote:
Throw the questions out there and you'll soon enough hook one of your 'guru's'
<g>.
Meantime, I'll offer you an individuals assessment on your colour thing...don't worry about it, if you're making good quality stuff {meaning no mud or gravel laying in the bottom of your storage vessels} colour is not an issue. And the HP thing...shouldn't need it, and again, if you're making good quality stuff why would you want to hit it with HP? Don't be phased by colour, unless it's a murky colour.
There ya go Dee, I've filled in a gap til one of your guru's comes walzing thru the door <g>.
N.
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