I imagine that stainless would just give it a place to plate out and
weaken the batch considerably.
 you would have to watch it on a wood stove and that would be a long task.
You don't want it to boil and it evaporates very slowly.  You might rig up
a way to heat with a candle under a metal plate of some sort with a glass
vessel containing the CS.
Used coffee pots are quite cheap and would be a good investment.
Dave

On Thu, Feb 19, 2015 at 6:06 PM, Walter Anderson <
walter.ander...@outlook.com> wrote:

> Thanks Dave. I don’t have a lot of experience with this stuff (think we’ve
> made three batches in an SG7 so far) and would have guessed concentrating
> it like you note would cause agglomeration. But your observations on adding
> water back in suggest that is not the case.
>
> I’ve wondered before about how to get higher ppm. I think it would make
> sense for inhaling if one had a lung condition, and have wondered if higher
> ppm would be useful for external use (wounds, rashes, etc) as well.
>
> You use a coffee pot. I’m thinking that gets it hot and steaming, but not
> quite boiling (no coffee pot here… just chaga in an old pot on the wood
> stove). Would boiling CS have any adverse effects on it? And would boiling
> it in a s/s pot be a bad idea?
>
> Walter
>
>
>
> *From:* Da Darrin [mailto:ddarrin...@gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Thu, Feb. 19, 2015 09:52
> *To:* silver-list@eskimo.com
> *Subject:* Re: CS>Highly ionic CS.
>
>
>
>  Using less water and letting it get dark would make less ionic and more
> coloidal (particlulate)solution.
>  If you brew longer to make color the result is agglomeration. (formation
> of larger particles) , that is why I make a normal batch, then remove the
> water to what I want for strength. If this process caused agglomeration the
> solution would not go back to clear when the water is added back in as
> adding water wouldn't break up the agglomerated particles and it would
> still show as color.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Feb 19, 2015 at 9:04 AM, V <highergroun...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> So If I use smaller amounts of water and let it get dark? I also am
> wondering about using H202 with the solution. This had been discussed a bit
> in the past so I should go back to the archives for those discussions but I
> have had a bottle of food grade as they call it in my freezer. I bought it
> at a time when I rabidly was searching for a cure for my sisters cancer.
> Sadly she wasn't open to alternatives and I lost my best friend really
> quickly with the excessive traditional cut/slash/burn treatments that
> destroyed the quality of her last days as well. Brutal to watch someone you
> love suffer to that degree. So I am determined to keep learning how to take
> care of myself.
>
>
>
> On Thu, Feb 19, 2015 at 10:22 AM, Da Darrin <ddarrin...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>   The way I make any strength i want is after making a given strength I
> remove a bunch of the water so it is more concentrated. Simple to do with
> an old coffee pot. Just set it on the plate and wait until the level drops
> to come to whatever concentration you want. You can get to a color that is
> quite dark as it concentrates and return it to clear by adding the water
> back into it so you can see that you are not causing agglomeration
>
> Dave.
>
>
>
> On Thu, Feb 19, 2015 at 5:47 AM, Debra & David <alch...@kern.com.au>
> wrote:
>
> Hi David:
> Did you run the batch with a meter in-line to verify the stability of the
> current?
> ~Jason
>
> I'm using a Silverpuppy/Silverwell. Current controlled to 1mA, give or
> take a few microamps. (I have a meter running in line with a batch right
> now. Says .969 mA. Close enough I'd say.
>
> David.
>
>
>
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