> Hi Mike,
> I think it is safer to use the distilled water I have, and want to
> use the silver I have (it is .999 silver, and it is very easily
> bent). Now that you tell me that your method doesn't tarnish the
> wires I don't mind twisting it into some workable shape.
I'm glad to hear they didn't sell you sterling silver wire.
For more information on distilled water quality, please see my post
to the list
"CS>Re: Current limiting by low range setting of RS "true rms" DVM's"
http://escribe.com/health/thesilverlist/m59106.html
> How much wetted area of the 14 gage would I need per 8 oz of
> water?
All of it. Put as much silver under water as you can. Please see my
post to the list
"CS> Finally, a use for all that old silver you have lying around"
http://escribe.com/health/thesilverlist/m59084.html
> Is it important for the whole length of both wires to be equally
> distant during the process? I would have to deform the wires into
> some shape, which is not a problem, but having them be equally
> distant at the same time is more difficult.
I don't think spacing is terribly critical. I'm studying this right
now with an arrangement that has four separate rods. The minimum
spacing is 1 inch, and the maximum is 1 3/8 inch. I can't detect any
variation in the appearance of a gray coating they all get partway
through a run. So moderate care in straightening the rods should
work fine.
14 ga is ok, but next time try to get 12 ga wire. It has more area
and is stronger. You need less for the same wetted area, and the
structure will be stiffer so you won't bend it so easily when
cleaning.
> How long would it need to run, and how would I know when it is
> done?
It depends on the quality of your water, the temperature, the wetted
area, and the current density you are using. You need to look
carefully and learn how your system operates. Please see the link
just above for a description of the process.
>> I try to minimize all contact with the rods. Fixing them to a
>> plastic cap allows me to set it upside down while I am filling
>> the glass with dw or transferring the cs to another container.
>> Then I put the cap back on the glass, so everything is protected
>> from contamination.
> I'm glad you are telling me about this, and will be very careful
> to keep them clean, etc..
When you are ready to start your run, give the rods a final
cleaning. I use isopropyl alcohol, which may give some people on the
list a heart attack. But I follow it with two complete runs that
swap the anode and cathode, and discard the cs.
I check the third run very carefully. If there is anything unusual,
I discard it also.
By the fourth run, I am reasonably confident there is no
contamination left. After that, I never touch the rods with my
fingers again, and only use unbleached tissue to give a gentle wipe.
Normally, there is little or no residue on the tissue, except when I
push the brew longer to get pale straw cs. Afterwards, there is a
bit of black from both rods, but nothing like what I used to get
running at 1.4 mA that resulted in a much weaker brew.
> Thanks again for your help
> Ken
Thanks for the beautifully capitalized and spell-checked letter!
Best Regards,
Mike Monett
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