Wall warts are voltage rated at max stated current, so , 9v rated at 400 ma might well output 14 volts with no load but when loaded to nearly 400 ma, will put out 9vdc.
The 24 volt AC to AC 100 ma wall warts I use output 81 volts AC peak to peak at no load which drops to 36 VDC after rectification and wave form smoothed off with a couple of big capacitors. After it goes through all the semiconductors, chips and resistors the final output is around 28 volts DC at no load.
That's why I use em.
A battery is a similar story and will still drop in voltage if the current draw is high enough.
A 12 volt car battery will drop to around 8 volts when the starter is engaged, so, the voltage the old ignition systems actually run on is not 12 volts but is stepped down with a resistor block to 6 or 8 volts.
The resistor is bypassed in the 'start' key position so the car will start easily when the starter is running.
A typical CS generator running on 3 nines doesn't even come close to the current rating of the batteries [or a typical wall wart], so, no voltage drop.
You've discovered that in the land of electricity and CS making..If you want a set value that doesn't change all over the place, YOU have to set it. :-)
Voltage regulators.
"Some" wall warts have them inside.
Some have thermal overload protection.
...and some will blow out at the drop of a hat.
If you don't have a current limiting resistor in series with your electrodes and they touch even for a second and everything quits...you have one of those.
Ode
At 07:18 AM 12/12/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>>>>
Thanks!<<<<
Ok, did that, now I know which is positive, but it reads 14 v. Is everything weird here, or what?
paula
----- Original Message -----
From: <mailto:[email protected]>Ode Coyote
Check it with your digital meter.
If it reads -9 v, switch the meter leads and the red one is positive.
Ode
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