Nenah,

I'm surprised you didn't choose a good 6 stage Reverse Osmosis set up to treat your well water. That's what I would have done... with the 1st or 6th stage being a UV light to sterilize the water. I just installed a RO system in my home and never tasted sweeter water than it produces. I had a very good carbon block filter in use before this, but the taste can't compare. You might also want to check out the Crystal Clear Electron Water Machine. It's basically a distiller that emparts permanently charged left spinning electrons into the water, changing its structure permanently. It's an interesting concept and claims for this water abound. I purchased one but haven't used it yet. The device is completely hand made and of very good quality. You can call them and talk to Mr. Ellis, the inventor. Here is the link;

http://www.johnellis.com/fs_main.htm

Best of luck.

Bob
----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Nave" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2005 7:46 AM
Subject: Re: CS>Requested: advice on water from chemistry-minded folks


I tend to agree with what Tony has indicated.

Slowing the rate of flow of water through an ionizer can only make the
resultant water more ionized, not less ionized.

There may be a problem with the first filter putting something into the
water.

There may be something in the water (from either the well or the
filter)  that is affecting the electrodes of the water ionizer causing
them to ionize less efficiently.

Maybe your Singer machine is just plain broken...

Leaving the water out overnight for the CO2 to dissipate will only work
before the water is ionized.  You should ionize it after it sits out.
Test the plain untreated well water before and after letting it sit out.


If you let alkaline water sit out it will get more acidic, at least
that's what I remember from ionizer literature I read.

Get the water tested, and go from there.  You'll want to know what is
in it anyway...

Dan



Re: CS>Requested: advice on water from chemistry-minded folks

From: Tony Moody (view other messages by this author)
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2005 23:05:58

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Nenah,
May you be very happy in your new home.

Have you tried connecting well water straight into the Ionizer? To test

whether the filter is the culprit.

I can think of two potential problems.
1/ Something has got into the ionizer causing a problem, possibly
blocking a port or covering an electrode or sensor.
2/ The new filter is functionally different so that the water leaving
the
filter is now strongly buffered by passing through the filter.

I can only imagine that slowing the water flow would cause the
electrolysis process to be 'better' or 'stronger'

hth,
Tony

On 6 Feb 2005 at 19:57, Nenah Sylver wrote:

Dear People,
I have a challenge with my water system and would like your input,
especially from the chemistry-minded folk of this list.

In November I moved my home and office 6 miles to an even more
remote
country location. The house's water supply is fed by a well. The
water's pH tests at around 6.2, much too acidic to drink (it should
be
at least a neutral 7.0).

As with my prior location, the water purification setup at my new
locale consists of two countertop water treatment units. The first
is
a simple filter with coconut shell, to remove the particulate matter
-- and save wear and tear on the second water unit. The second water
unit is a Singer Ionizer Plus, which electrolizes the water and
sends
the acid and alkaline fluids to separate chambers. You drink the
alkaline water and use the acidic water externally (the skin is
acidic
and really benefits from the acid water). At my new location, the
electrolyzed water initially tested from about 7.2 to 8.6, depending
on the low or high settings of the Singer electrolysis system. The
alkaline water tasted sweet and felt smooth.

However, then we needed to replace the cartridge in Unit #1. The
company that makes the first unit redesigned the cartridge and now
we're having water problems. The mouth on both ends of the cartridge
is much narrower than before. Presumably, this has lowered the
pressure of the water flowing into the Singer. So now, even with the
Singer unit on the highest setting, the water's pH doesn't get much
higher than 6.6.

The manufacturer of Unit #1 (the one that changed the cartridge)
doesn't want to talk to us because we're not a large account. But
someone at the Singer dealership did talk to us. We were told that
well water is tricky to test for pH, because often there's carbonic
acid (dissolved carbon dioxide) in the water. The remedy, the
company
rep continued, is to let the water sit overnight so the carbon
dioxide
can dissipate -- and THEN test the water the next morning.

So I followed their advice. I electrolyzed the water at the second
setting and the highest setting, let the two containers of water sit
overnight, and then retested the pH the next morning. There was no
difference between the night before and the next morning. The
highest
pH was still about 6.6.

Here are the mysteries:

1) Why would changing the water pressure (narrowing the mouth of the
cartridge on Machine #1) create a difference in pH?

2) Why didn't the carbon dioxide escape from the open water?

3) If the carbon dioxide didn't escape from the open water, it's
possible that the acidic readings weren't the result of carbonic
acid.
If not, what was creating the acid?

All this leads to yet another issue:

Obviously, we're going to filter our water to get rid of sediment
and
chemicals. But drinking acidic water is out of the question. What
can
we put into the water to raise the pH?

I experimented with putting 50% concentrated pharmaceutical grade
potassium hydroxide into the acidic water. I had to use at least
four
drops to get the water to an acceptably alkaline level (it only gets
to about 7.2)..But now there is an unpleasant taste to the water.

I really liked using the Singer when the results were working.
Alkaline water is wonderfully sweet and has great energy. But any
water electrolysis unit produces results that are only as good as
the
water that feeds it.

My only other option is to make distilled water, and add minerals to
it for drinking. Technically, distilled water has a pH of 7.0
because
it doesn't contain minerals. However, in reality this rarely is the
case, because as soon as distilled water is exposed to the air it
violently reacts with carbon dioxide and becomes acidic. For
instance,
I once tested the pH of distilled water that was freshly made with a
friend's distiller, and the pH was only 6.2.

Nevertheless, I ordered a distiller and expect it next week. I don't
know what pH this unit will create. Hopefully, the pH will be closer
to 7.0 than not. Even if the pH is 6.8, it's exponentially *much*
better than even 6.6 -- and I'll be able to add *less* potassium
hydroxide to get it to the pH I want.

However, I don't know the ramifications of drinking potassium
hydroxide on a regular basis. I figure that if the water tastes bad,
that's an indicator that something is wrong.

So your intelligent suggestions are welcome. (All you Sherlock
Holmes
chemists, put on your thinking caps!

I hope I have been clear in explaining the situation. Thanks in
advance for your help.

Nenah

Nenah Sylver, PhD
author, The Handbook of Rife Frequency Healing
and The Holistic Handbook of Sauna Therapy
    http://www.nenahsylver.com
Holistic health products, supplements and services




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