I hit the same problem you did with getting a fast motor to go slow
enough without stalling out..or having enough torque to start itself.
Pulse width modulators/motor controls could be an answer, then price
and/or complexity becomes a factor and may still not be slow enough.
I went to gear head motors at 20 to 30 RPM.
Even then, a small "pill" works better than a bigger pill.
Its easy to use resistance to slow those down if needed
Speed is reduced at the opposite end of the vortex, so in a gallon jar,
the water at the surface is turning about half the speed as at the bottom.
I make mine from custom castings and "home" machined parts so I could
keep a check on the selling price. There's no way to even touch a decent
lab stirrer for under $80..then modify it for purpose. [But how?]
There is a battery operated $16 unit out there...'now'.
Way too fast and no speed control that I recall.
If you get the stir speed customized to the batch size and specific
generator, you can do wonders with the quality of the TE.
Even reversing polarity gens won't make a lot of "sparklies" if you get
it right and 'grey beard' on straight DC gens can be dramatically reduced.
Ode
At 07:28 AM 3/3/2006 -0800, you wrote:
I have been using magnetic stirring for awhile (couple years?) after
trying a little elec motor and stirrer and an air bubbler. It is an old
lab unit that I started experimenting with cause I had one, and the early
discussions here about stirring. It worked, but was fast, and as I think
Ode pointed out back then, it was too fast even at the slowest
setting. Well, it was still better than not stirring, and I was using a
larger vessel than prior so that helped as I kept the electrodes near the
top. Then I went to slowing the motor, but I am using voltage regulation
that is designed for resistive loads. What would a better option be for
slowing the lab stirrer down? I know there are variable speed switches
for routers and other hand tools which seems like it would be the ticket,
but I am not sure and they are at least $25 (mucho $ for a cheapskate like
me, if I can do better). Any other suggestions? Ode, isn't your unit the
one with a modifie! d lab stirrer to get the slower rotations? I bet that
works great. As soon as I get the proper current limiting I think I'll be
set. I have been loyally taking my own silver for several years due to
HepC. Unfortunately, though it has been awhile since last test, I still
had a similar viral load. Still I will persist, and I am hoping that this
automatic current limiting will be better and faster, so I can up my
quantities while being cognizant about quality.
And thank you all for the great and clear info on current limiting diodes.
Maz
Dan Nave <[email protected]> wrote:
Buy the .91 or the 1.1 ma rated diode instead of the 1.0 ma rated
diode.
You will pay twice as much for the 1.0 ma rated diode.
Dan
>>> "S&JY" 3/1/! 2006 10:06:43 PM >>>
Mouser Electronics www.mouser.com/centralsemi. You want a current
regulator
diode which you simply connect in series with one of the leads going to
an
electrode. They come in various current ratings starting at 0.22 mA on
up
to 4.7 mA. Some part part numbers are 610-1N52xx, where xx is 85 for
.27
ma, 91 for 0.56 ma, 94 for 0.75 ma, 97 for 1.0 ma and 99 for 1.2 ma.
You
are better to go with less than one ma and let your generator run for
a
longer time; this yields smaller particles. Cost is about $2.
--Steve Y.
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