Plans to sell Morningstar Ranch stir memories, prompt dismay

Published: Saturday, February 12, 2011 at 3:00 a.m.
Last Modified: Saturday, February 12, 2011 at 11:08 p.m.

If you don't understand the portent of this news, you've missed out on a
big, colorful chunk of Sonoma County's history.

Morningstar was the “mother ship” of California's open-land communes in
the 1960s and early '70s, blossoming in the rarefied atmosphere of San
Francisco's Summer of Love and, on the larger stage, reflecting the
national angst over the Vietnam War.

And Lou Gottlieb, the owner of the 32 acres on Graton Road near
Occidental that he liked to call “The Ashram,” was a larger-than-life
figure.

Gottlieb, who died at Morningstar in 1996, was an accomplished musician
and stage personality who struck it rich as the bassist — and comedy
voice — of two groups that gained national prominence in the folk music
era of the '50s and '60s - first, The Gateway Singers and, later, The
Limelighters.

For 15 years his heirs have kept the property as open space,
acknowledging their father's wish that it be “returned to nature.” But
that has proven difficult. And, since word of an impending sale got
around among the Morningstar “graduates,” as the former residents call
themselves, emotions have been high.

Some consider the ranch a “sacred place” and would like to see it become
a kind of shrine to Gottlieb and his Utopian philosophy. And it's safe
to say that all of them fear that it will be subdivided into building
lots, planted in vineyards or, perish the thought, become the site of a
“McMansion” or two. Tony Gottlieb, the eldest of Lou's three offspring,
is the executor of his father's estate. He explained the family's plans
in an e-mail last week.

“Other than to maintain the status quo, during the 15 years since Lou's
passing, we haven't found an answer to make some appropriate or
affordable use of the property.

“Certainly, we're all sensitive to the concerns about preserving its
condition. But we're just beginning the process of divesting.”

Meanwhile, the faithful are mobilizing. San Francisco writer Ramon
Sender, who was something of a major-domo at Morningstar and now acts as
the archivist for the Morningstar history, says he has asked the heirs
for “a couple of months' option” to find an buyer — “some generous
person that would be respectful of Lou's wishes.”

In a letter to The Press Democrat last month, Paula Oandasan, another
former resident, expressed her dismay in stronger terms.

“Lou Gottlieb's son,” she wrote, “has decided to sell this historic
land. Lou must be rolling over in his grave. He fought so hard to keep
this land open and free. ... I'm hoping someone sees this who has access
to funds, maybe to buy it and turn it into a spiritual retreat.

“It really is sacred ground, powerful and beautiful.”

THE RANCH'S TENURE as a destination for hippies, seekers, Utopians,
Flower Children — call them what you will — began in 1966, when the
42-year-old Gottlieb, who had purchased the ranch as a country retreat
three years earlier, wearied of the rigors of road-show performances and
retired.

Concerned about people who couldn't find their place in a rapidly
changing social climate and a world at war — people he called
“technological misfits” — he declared his ranch open land, open to all.
He built a small studio where he spent his days at his grand piano,
preparing for the concert he hoped to perform when he turned 50.

Around him, people gathered, hitching rides, coming in packed VW vans.
While Lou made music, they set up their community, building rudimentary
shelters, taking group “trips” and working in the vegetable garden
designed to supply food for themselves and for The Diggers, a group in
San Francisco's Haight-Ashbury formed to feed the thousands of street
people that were coming to San Francisco to wear flowers in their hair.

It was as the “Digger Ranch” that Morningstar and Gottlieb made Time
Magazine and drew national attention — and more people.

The curious, intrigued by the tie-dyed, wild-haired, barefoot young
people they encountered in west county gas stations and grocery stores,
arranged to visit the ranch, as did the Rotarians and Kiwanians who were
invited by Gottlieb when he accepted their invitations to be a luncheon
speaker on his open-land philosophy.

The residents, who were tagged by Press Democrat writer Dick Torkelson
as “The Happiness People,” welcomed one and all. Visitors came back
bug-eyed with tales of houses in trees and nude cooks in the makeshift
kitchen.

There were 100 people there (perhaps more) at the peak, when the Sonoma
County Health Department, responding to neighbors' complaints about open
fires and open pit toilets and sub-standard living quarters, got
interested in the ranch, as did the Sheriff's Office when military
police came searching for deserters.

Authorities accused Gottlieb of running an “organized camp” to which his
attorney, Rex Sater, who would become one of the most respected judges
on the county's Superior Court, responded that there was nothing at all
“organized” about Lou or the ranch.

The Sheriff's Office narcotics division, led by Deputy Paul Stefani,
staged raids and the health department pursued the sanitation issues
through the next three years.

By 1971, bulldozers had moved in and leveled the shelters and campsites
and many of the residents had moved on to another, larger, more-remote
area of open land off Coleman Valley Road known as Wheeler Ranch.

After many skirmishes with authorities and a compilation of legal
threats and fines, Gottlieb gave up on his ashram, walked into the
County Recorder's Office, deeded Morningstar Ranch to God, and left for
India.

I am making a long and interesting story short. The whole tale can be
found in Ramon Sender's history entitled “Home Free Home” on the
badabamama.com website.

The God deed didn't hold. Superior Court Judge Kenneth Eymann's decision
was that God “is neither a natural nor artificial person and therefore
cannot take title to land.” (Some laymen interpreted that to mean, “God
doesn't pay taxes.”)

As the ruling made its way through the appeals courts to the state
Supreme Court, where it was upheld, Lou's musical fortune diminished in
legal fees and fines.

There were all kinds of responses to the news that he had deeded the
ranch to God. One favorite was a letter received at the county offices
from a woman in the Midwest who said that lightning had destroyed her
barn and her insurance company had declared it an act of God. If God had
property, she said, He owed her for the barn.

No one pretends that Morningstar was not controversial, to put it
mildly. Ramon Sender suggests that all the press that Gottlieb and his
experiment received did not serve the cause well. And Paula Oandasan
acknowledges, “There are still varying opinions of Morningstar,
depending on who you talk to.”

In her letter, she spoke of her own experience. “As for myself, I
learned so much at Morningstar — how to cook for over 100 people, how to
love people who were very different from me, how to accept many
religions and so much more. Morningstar formed my life.”

Lou's heirs, who have yet to respond to Sender's request for an option,
also acknowledge that there was controversy in Utopia.

Tony Gottlieb is managing partner of a Nashville music company called
ACF Music Group (and longtime owner of Morningstar Management, where his
client is popular folk singer and songwriter Cheryl Wheeler). His
sister, Judith Gottlieb Spector, lives in Berkeley. And their younger
half-brother, Bill Gottlieb, who was born at Morningstar, is a New York
attorney.

“Many have a personal relationship to the property's commune days,” Tony
told me. “As children, we were there too.

“It was an interesting period, but perhaps not all of it was
commendable.”

--
http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/20110212/NEWS/110219796/1332/news?Title=Plans-to-sell-Morningstar-Ranch-stir-memories-prompt-dismay
Via InstaFetch

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