Well Lightning can't cause EMP but it's very similar both of them
result in an electrical pulse threat that can be addressed with
similar circuit protection techniques.
There is a good white paper here 
http://www.blackmagic.com/ses/bruceg/EMC/EMP-Light.html

So don't underestimate the power of CHEESE!! ohh wait sorry that was
supposed to be lightning ;)

Best regards,
 Eje Gustafsson                       mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
The Family Entertainment Network      http://www.fament.com
Phone : 620-231-7777                  Fax   : 620-231-4066
     - Your Full Time Professionals -
Online Store http://www.fament.com/catalo/
--- 
wp1o> I thought we all had a long conversation not too long ago and was determined
wp1o> that Lightning CAN NOT cause E.M.P.

wp1o> Michael

wp1o> ----- Original Message -----
wp1o> From: "Nish Park" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wp1o> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wp1o> Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 9:45 AM
wp1o> Subject: RE: [smartBridges] Grounding?!


>> Wow. This are nice tips John. We will make sure to include them in our
>> product documentation to help others. Thanks.
>>
>> Nish
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Hokenson
>> Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 3:01 PM
>> To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
>> Subject: Re: [smartBridges] Grounding?!
>>
>> I've been involved with designing and installing communications systems
>> for
>> over thirty years, are here is my take on the proper installlation and
>> grounding of the SmartBridge units (and WISP equipment in general)....
>>
>> TOWER TOP ACCESS POINTS/BRIDGES
>>
>> 1.    In any area that is prone to lightning, grounding and protection
>> of
>> the antenna port is a must.  With the units that are fed from the ground
>> with PoE (power over ethernet) and an antenna jack, first--screw a high
>> quality lightning supressor on the N-female jack on the radio--the
>> Polyphaser PSX-ME is what I prefer.  It has a male connector to screw
>> onto
>> the radio and a female for attachment of the antenna cable.  Since the
>> case
>> of the radio is plastic and does not ground to the tower (not really a
>> good
>> idea in my opinion but we're stuck with it), use a grounding kit to
>> securely
>> bond the body of the protector to the metal leg of the tower.
>> 2.    I am suspecting that many of the radio failures are due to induced
>> emp
>> from nearby lightning strikes on the ethernet cable itself which is
>> acting
>> as an antenna to pick up the pulse.  For this reason I suggest the use
>> of
>> outdoor shielded cat5--the kind with icky pick embedded in the inner
>> layer
>> among the pairs, a first pvc insulation layer, an aluminum jacket with
>> additional icky pick and finally an outer PVC jacket.  At the radio end,
>> terminate the connection as close as you can get it to the radio--the
>> new
>> style radios I would terminate it in the weatherproof splice box.  You
>> will
>> need a bonding kit to attach a ground wire to the aluminuum
>> jacket--these
>> are commonly made by 3M and available from Graybar.  Using a #10 or
>> larger
>> wire attached to the stud on the grounding kit, bond the shield to the
>> leg
>> of the tower, keeping the ground wire as short as possible.  The best
>> way I
>> have found to do this is to assemble the grounding kit to the shield
>> about
>> 6" from the end of the cable where the pairs will be attached, then
>> slide
>> some Panduit DB shrink with hot glue sealant inside over the splice and
>> shrink it down to weather seal the bond.  Since you also need the ground
>> for
>> the antenna protector, you can clamp a phospher bronze ground clamp to
>> the
>> leg of the tower directly below the radio and attach both the ground
>> from
>> the antenna protector and the cat5 ground to the same point.  Graybar
>> has
>> the Panduit shrink and ground clamps as well.
>> 3.    Install another bonding kit on the cat5 where it leaves the tower,
>> again you can seal it with Panduit DB shrink.
>> 4.    If the run up the tower is more than 150' (50M) or so, I would
>> probably bond the shield in the middle of the run as well.
>> 5.    Where the cat5 terminates, again bond the shield to a ground....#8
>> or
>> larger copper wire back to the tower ground is preferable, lacking that
>> the
>> building ground....and make sure someone has bonded that to the tower
>> ground
>> with #6 or larger copper.
>> 6.    Lastly, between the end of the shielded cat5 and the PoE injector,
>> install a good quality PoE surge suppressor--Motorola makes a nice one
>> for
>> their Canopy products and is available from Tessco for about $40.  Make
>> sure
>> the ground stud on it is tied to the same ground feeding the end of the
>> cat5
>> shield.
>> 7.    Code generally requires that the protector beinstalled where the
>> cat5
>> enters the building, so the place to terminate the shielded cat5 and
>> install
>> the Motorola cat5 protector is on the outside of the wall, and
>> transition
>> there to normal cat5 in to your power injector.
>>
>> ROOFTOP ACCESS POINTS/BRIDGES
>>
>> 1.    Many times either an access point or cpe radio will be installed
>> on
>> the top of a commercial building or home.  The same rules apply with
>> some
>> modifications because of the installation.
>> 2.    If it is a customer radio that is not as critical as an access
>> point,
>> you may choose to dispense with the lightning supressor on the
>> antenna--but
>> DO at the minimum bond the shield of the coax to the galvanized metal
>> support mast or support structure or DSS mount.  One option for this
>> would
>> be to loosen the lock nut for the N female connector on the radio and
>> install a piece of sheet metal under the nut to attach a ground
>> wire--we've
>> done this and it works well.
>> 3.    You still need to use shielded cat5 and bond the shield to the
>> common
>> antenna ground point as described in the previous section on tower
>> grounding.
>> 4.    Since the antenna support is most likely not grounded in this
>> instance, you need to attach a #6 copper wire to the support stucture
>> (the
>> 5/16 bolts securing the tripod to the mast is a good spot) and bring it
>> down
>> along with the cat 5 to where things enter the building.
>> 5.    Attach the #6 wire to the ground lug on the cat5 protector, along
>> with
>> the cat5 shield, then continue to the closest attachment point to the
>> building system ground.
>>
>> INDOOR ACCESS POINTS AND BRIDGES
>>
>> 1.    In those cases where the installation is using an indoor unit with
>> coax out to an outdoor antenna, I would direct you to a typical
>> installation
>> of a certified SmartBridge CPE:
>>         http://www.vircom.net/pictures/res-install/res-install.htm
>> 2.    In the case of an indoor access point, the only change I would
>> suggest
>> is installation of a Polyphaser PSX instead of simply a bulkhead ground
>> at
>> the entrance point.
>>
>> Hope this helps a few of you out there avoid unnecessary failures.
>>
>> ==========================================
>> John Hokenson, Operations Manager
>> VIRCOM.NET
>> reply to:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> 425-558-0674   bellevue
>> 425-432-8172   king county
>> 206-341-9421   seattle
>> 800-806-7446   toll-free
>> 425-432-8173   fax
>> WWW.VIRCOM.NET
>> giving you the world since 1994
>> ==========================================
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "David Berndt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 9:50 PM
>> Subject: [smartBridges] Grounding?!
>>
>>
>> > A bit of a mid-night rant here.
>> >
>> > I've been thinking on a lot of the failures we hear talked about here
>> on
>> > the list, the quesitons about lightning, potential lightning strikes,
>> > lightning striking near by. Alot of the answers seem to be a
>> combination
>> of
>> > finger crossing and some black magic.
>> >
>> > So what I'd like to see to rectify some of these issues is smartbridge
>> > publish a document about proper grounding. Where do we need
>> grounds/surge
>> > protectors/lightning arrestors, the differences between them, etc.
>> >
>> > I know these things are all dictated by the local building code and
>> the
>> > like wherever you happen to be using the product. But how about some
>> sort
>> > of a document that is intended as a bare minimum/recommended practices
>> > document to get all the installs to be put together in a fairly
>> similar
>> way
>> > and help correct some of the new newbie mistakes and take a bit of the
>> > black magic out of this.
>> >
>> > This could be a fairly simple diagram of a few different sample setups
>> of
>> > the outdoor equipment. I am especially interested in the total
>> equipment,
>> > is there a polyphaser in there? Should the cat5 be grounded when using
>> > sheilded cat5, otherwise? Surge protector on the cat5? before/after
>> the
>> POE
>> > device? etc etc.
>> >
>> > A recommended parts list wouldnt be horrible either. I do not want to
>> see
>> > this enforced, but more documentation and standardization would make
>> things
>> > clearer for everyone, provide a quick way to answer peoples questions
>> and
>> > maybe make everyones systems a bit more stable.
>> >
>> > Hope that made some degree of sense.
>> >
>> > Dave
>> >
>> > The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List
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