At 11:27 AM 6/13/01 -0500, you wrote:
>First off I got the Stylus working with a 5 channel hlg with 4 servos.� What
>I had to do was set up the "c-mix".� Channel 2 AI was the master and channel
>1 was the slave.� I then had to adjust the epa on the spoiler channel.�
>Viola'... it worked.� The only down side is I have to make sure not to
>accidently hit the spoiler control when flying.
>
>Next Question:
>
>I am shopping for the ultimate foam wing cutter.� Any suggestions?
Dear Livetosoar,
First, back to the Stylus solution. I'm assuming that you are NOT using the
glider card due to your channel selections. Further, you are trying to move
channel #7 (R. Aileron) to channel #1 (spoiler) because you are using a 5
channel receiver.
To fix the spoiler channel interaction with the aileron mix/output, first,
before enabling the C-Mix, go to the EPA menu and scroll to the first slot
(spoiler channel). With the flap stick in the "up" position, zero out the
spoiler EPA. Now move the flap stick to the "down" position. Zero out the
spoiler EPA again.
Next, re-enable the C-MIX in the Switch (SW) menu. Set the master to AI
(aileron) and the slave to SP (spoiler). With the aileron stick slightly to
the
right, scroll to the mix percentage (upper right of screen) and run the value
up to 100%. Push the aileron stick slightly to the left and again, run the mix
percentage up to 100%.
If the slaved servo is running the wrong direction, you can reverse it one of
two ways. Either go to the REV menu and reverse channel #1, or in the C-MIX
menu, change the mix percentages (left & right) to -100%.
At this point, you shouldn't have any interaction between the flap stick and
the ailerons.
Regarding the foam cutter, the Feathercut is well built, an easy buy (read
- no
scrounging necessary). If you make a few changes to it as suggested by the
design of others such Del Brengman, chuck the little tailwheel on the bow and
suspend it from the the ceiling with a light piece of bungee chord.
Instead of using the office paper clamp to hold the lead weight to the drop
bar, permanently attach an "S" hook to the lead weight and drill a hole in the
drop bar under each tens division (i.e. 10, 20, 30, 40....). The "S" engages
the hole and not won't fall off at all of the critical times.
Use flyfishing float line, braided leader, or anything that runs smoothly
through the pulleys intead of the silicone wire that powers the bow.
Stylus Boy still doin' the disco,
Tom Hoopes ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
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