It was in the ifnition switch. And the headlight was bad. I fixed it. I'm happy. To answer the other questions out of a need to not leave loose ends....It is a 1974. The ignition switch has been moved to the handle bar and there is no kill switch. The headlight switch is on the right side and the starter button is on the side panel. (a bit rigged by the PO) but I am moving it to the place that has the key (next to the handle bar). The problem was when I put on the new ignitionb switch, (old one was in shambles) I maybe got the wrong one. It looked right and the key was even shaped right but anyway I could see that it wasn't wired the same as the old one and that a missing splice was the problem. So I fixed it and put in a new bulb and I am ready to rock.
-----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 3:41 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: possibiliteis are changing. > I, for some reason have no power going through the other two fuses. The main > fuse has been bypassed and is now an inline fuse but the other two fuses have no > juice going to it. I am going to start researching today to see what they are > for and where to start snooping around. I am thinking that since I can unplug > the entire fuse box and nothing change (blinkers, horn, neutral light, oil > light, still work) that the possibility lies somewhere other than the switch. Jason, It'd help if you told us what bike/year you have. 750s originally ran everything on one fuse (until '72 or '74, I think), so if your bike is a later model, the PO may have replaced/spliced/jury-rigged an early wiring harness to the bike. The fact that you have somewhere to plug in the unused fuse block is an indicator of major mods to the harness. The other weirdness is the unused right-side controls. Do you have to kickstart? Is the ignition constantly on when the key is turned (no kill switch)? Does your right-hand pod have the headlight on/off switch? Bottom line, if you don't have a good wiring harness diagram, get one. The www.sohc4.net website has a few, and the Haynes and Clymer manuals (not to mention the Honda shop manuals) have them too, sometimes color-coded. Get a multimeter to check continuity/resistance through your harness. These two things will answer far more questions for you than most of us on the list ever could. Cheers, Carlos
