======================================================= -> This is The 'SPORRS' Mailing List -> Info File: http://www.anet-stl.com/acphotog/sporrs/infosporrs.htm -> Note: Remember to include your name in each list post or reply. -> Please delete all unnecessary quoted text from the original message! =======================================================
Urban Fredriksson wrote: > I use UV filters only when I think they're needed, which > isn't very often. (For a couple of my newer lenses it's even > specifically stated by the maker that they don't need any.) My thoughts: I had no UV or Skylight filters on my lenses for years because of some bad experience years ago with lesser grade (and non-multicoated) filters. What I also didn't realize at the time, was that a filter needs to be 'squeaky' clean on each side or it is just another surface to reflect off of, especially since the flat filter is at a different angle to most spherical front lens elements (this and any slight residual film on the filter is where 'ghost' headlights come from). That residual film can be emitted from your camera bag padding and plastic camera parts, so just because you put your filter on new and clean, doesn't mean that it will stay that way. The best liquid cleaners that I have found is the ones that are made for cleaning multi-coated lenses. I use a white cotton dark room glove for this. Then I get out my micro-woven lens cleaning cloth (Leica or Pentax) and carefully wipe it perfectly clean. Fogging the glass with your breath works in a remote location, but this leaves something behind too, even after you wipe it to what looks like clean. If your filters look clean, but they are 'slippery' or not 'squeaky' clean, then you have a film on them which can cause ghosting, reflections and increase lens flare. And use a lens shade or hood all of the time! I can move all of my lenses around to see a difference with and without them, so they do matter. Anyway, in the past couple of years, I put all Nikon brand UV filters back on all my shorter lenses, and I clean my gear when necessary (at least once a month or more), and have not had any flare, ghosting or reflection problems with them recently. The longest lens I have a filter on however is my 105mm 2.5, because I shoot into locomotive headlights and I have had problems with those pesky 'extra' headlights in the past with telephotos. Never have I had a ghost headlight with a Nikon lens though that had no filter on it. (I'm not picking on any one lens manufacturer here, but the most headlight ghosting I have seen has been in shots taken with Canon 400mm 2.8 and 300mm 2.8 lenses. I don't think there are filters on the fronts of these, just the little ones in the filter drawer that are part of the lens design and not to be used without). Maybe I worry about this too much, because my current 300mm 2.8 has, and my recent 500mm 4.0 had a built-in (non-removable) UV filter in front of the first lens elements, and I have never had that problem with those (see my 500mm CSX shot on the web site - no headlight ghosting at all: those extra 'mystery' headlights - film type is irrelevant - have noticed though that E-6 gives you 'light trails' or oval headlights more, while Kodachrome blows lights out into flare more like in this CSX shot - very noticeable around top headlight). I don't have a UV in front of my 180mm or 80-200mm zoom right now. Anybody on this list having any headlight ghosting problems with filters on those focal length lenses? Dave Cohen Photographer Action Photographic Webmaster [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.anet-stl.com/acphotog/home/ ======================================================= -> SPORRS: 'Serious Photographers Of Railroad Related Subjects' -> Web Site: http://www.anet-stl.com/acphotog/sporrs/ -> Message © 1998 SPORRS® - All Rights Reserved =======================================================
