=======================================================
-> This is The 'SPORRS' Mailing List
-> Info File: http://www.anet-stl.com/acphotog/sporrs/infosporrs.htm
-> Note: Remember to include your name in each list post or reply.
-> Please delete all unnecessary quoted text from the original message!
=======================================================

JOHN B. CORNS wrote:

> When putting the big (14-inch diameter or so) polarizing filters over
> your lights when copying...

I won't quote John's whole message, and he is correct, however I will add a
couple of comments and tips of mine.

I often use two small (Photoflex Small or Chimera XS) softboxes at 45
degrees to the flat work (which is attached to a wall for copying), and I
get no reflections most of the time (you can see through the SLR or ground
glass if you have reflections).  If I do and I go the polarizing gel route,
I put 20x24 inch Roscoe gels over the 11.5 inch reflector hoods on my
Speedotron studio strobes with little A-clips or gaffers tape.  I have used
two Nikon flash units (Quantum Turbo battery) wired together with little
Lumiquest softbox attachments on location where I have no electrical
outlet, or can't bring in a pack and lights.

> be sure that all other extraneous light that is
> NOT passing through the filters does not hit the ceiling or walls of the
> room where you are copying.  This extra light can and will create
> unwanted light sources on your subject. 

Yes, 'flag' off stray light.  If you have them, you can use honeycomb grids
or 'eggcrates' (fabric grids) in your lights to 'aim' them too.

> Set up your lights at approximately 45-degree angles to the subject plane

This is most important!

With polarizing filters, be prepared to use a wide aperture (you don't need
depth of field on a flat object) or buy a 2400 watt second pack for each
light if you must shoot at F22. :)

Make sure your lens has a hood on it that flags off any light from your
lights.  If you can stand at your light and see the glass of your lens,
then you need a hood.  If you have a polarizer on your lens and can't use a
hood, you need to make sure that you have all of your light 'contained' and
not bouncing around your studio or copy room.

Dave Cohen
Photographer, Member ASMP
Action Photographic Webmaster
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.anet-stl.com/acphotog/home/






=======================================================
-> SPORRS: 'Serious Photographers Of Railroad Related Subjects'
-> Web Site: http://www.anet-stl.com/acphotog/sporrs/
-> Message © 1998 SPORRS® - All Rights Reserved
=======================================================


Reply via email to