Hi Pete,
I don't claim to be an expert at all, but I can tell you what was used in
Conrail (which are mainly the PRR standards) when I was working there. There
was no cant to the rail, and the locomotives arrived with no taper on the
treads. I ran GG-1 locomotives where the wheel treads had worn convex, yet
we still ran them at the "scheduled" 90 miles per hour...and at times we
stole some on that speed. I still have a standard Wheel and Coupler gauge
that was used by inspectors when condemning out of spec wheels. There where
"Go, No-Go" radius gauges for the flange radii, and there was a Go & No Go
gauge for flange thickness. Places to measure rim thickness and length of
flat spots. But, nothing whatsoever to measure the taper of the tread. There
was a "depth" limit for the amount the tire or wheel could be grooved.
Keith



> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:sslivesteam-
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 3:27 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [SSLiveSteam] Wheel Taper - rail angle?
> 
> >The reason real railroads have eliminated the coned tread of locomotives
is
> > traction. The contact{ are} AREA is greater when the wheel is contacting
> > the rail across the whole tread, where as the cone wheel has a very tiny
> > contact area, which gives you a MUCH better chance to slip!
> 
> I don't think it is quite that simple, as I believe the rails were canted
inwards at the same
> angle as the wheel taper?  And also (just to add to the confusion) the
possibly tiny contact
> area has much greater force acting on it (lbs/sq-in) so it offers adhesion
almost as good as
> the larger contact patch?
> 
> However, the PRR Standard Plans on railfan.net don't show any such
tilt/camber so I guess
> I'm wrong.
> http://prr.railfan.net/standards/standards.cgi?plan=56773--
> (Lots of good stuff on that collection - the index link is at the bottom,
if you don't already
> have it bookmarked.)
> 
> Pete
> 410-533-4219
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: [email protected]
> Sent: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 3:00 PM
> Subject: SSLiveSteam Digest, Vol 15, Issue 17
> 
> 
> Send SSLiveSteam mailing list submissions to
>     [email protected]
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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> than "Re: Contents of SSLiveSteam digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>    1. Re: O gauge wheel profile (Tom Jones)
>    2. Re: O gauge wheel profile (Keith Taylor)
>    3. Re: O gauge wheel profile (Sam)
>    4. Re: O gauge wheel profile (Mike Chaney)
>    5. Re: Wheel taper ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
>    6. Re: Wheel taper (Keith Taylor)
>    7. Re: Wheel taper (Keith Taylor)
>    8. Dezincification of brass (Jeffrey Williams)
>    9. Re: O gauge wheel profile - Off List (Tom Jones)
>   10. (no subject) (Arthur S. Cohen)
>   11. Fw: (Arthur S. Cohen)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 14:06:29 -0700
> From: "Tom Jones" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [SSLiveSteam] O gauge wheel profile
> To: [email protected]
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
> 
> I didn't think to mention it until I had seen Sam's question, but this
will
> be garden based.
> 
> Sam-
> 
> Thanks for you info.  I will be looking into it right away.  Also, I am
not
> sure if I am misunderstanding your reply or not, but I was refering to
> 'L.B.S.C' the man.  In one of his design booklets for an O gauge
locomotive,
> he had his preference for the wheel profile.
> 
> Keith-
> 
> Thanks for the input!  Strangley enough I have heard of no coneing on the
> tread before for both prototypes and models.  It will be interesting to
see
> if there is an outcry or not. :)
> 
> Once again, thanks for the input!
> 
> -Mitchell
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get FREE company branded e-mail accounts and business Web site from
> Microsoft Office Live
> http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/mcrssaub0050001411mrt/direct/01/
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 16:26:23 -0500
> From: "Keith Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [SSLiveSteam] O gauge wheel profile
> To: "'Small-scale live steam discussions'"
>     <[email protected]>
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Mike,
> How did you measure that 3 degree taper?
> And....I said folks would get upset!
> Still, in over 46 years of live steaming, I never saw a track damaged by a
> cylindrical wheel tread. Amtrak and every Class 1 road in the US are
buying
> locomotives with cylindrical treads, and they run the Acela trains at 150
> miles per hour.
> Keith
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:sslivesteam-
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Chaney
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 2:21 PM
> > To: Small-scale live steam discussions
> > Subject: Re: [SSLiveSteam] O gauge wheel profile
> >
> > Keith Taylor wrote:-
> >
> > >.... A 3? taper over the tiny tread of an "O" scale wheel is
> > > pracitally impossible to see, much less machine.Trying to
> > > set over the compound on most lathes to cut a 3? coning
> > > of the tread would be tough too, as the graduations on the
> > > lathes probably aren't accurate enough to bother.
> >
> > What utter nonsense!  My eyes are 67 years old and I can see the taper
> quite
> > clearly.  I've also spent the last three days machining a batch of
wheels
> -
> > with a three degree taper - and had no difficulty setting the compound
> slide
> > to within a sensible (about one quarter of a degree) tolerance.
> >
> > Mike Chaney
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > SSLiveSteam mailing list
> > Send messages: [email protected]
> > Cancel subscription:
http://postfix.45mm.com/mailman/listinfo/sslivesteam
> > Rules: http://www.45mm.com/sslivesteam_guide.html
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 21:23:51 +0000
> From: Sam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [SSLiveSteam] O gauge wheel profile
> To: Small-scale live steam discussions <[email protected]>
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
> 
> Tom Jones wrote:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for you info.  I will be looking into it right away.  Also, I am
not
> > sure if I am misunderstanding your reply or not, but I was refering to
> > 'L.B.S.C' the man.  In one of his design booklets for an O gauge
locomotive,
> > he had his preference for the wheel profile.
> 
> 
> Tom
> 
> Yes I know that LBSC was 'Curly' Lawrence, an ex LBSC fireman hence the
> pseudonym.  His wheel standards are not NECESSARILY  relevant today.  It
> depends on what track you intend to run on.  Modern Coarse O in UK uses
> a btb of 28mm with a flange root width of 1.5 mm running on track with a
> flangeway of 2.2mm.  Technically the flange depth should be 1.5mm but
> 16mm modellers tend to use 2mm as this allows the use of the same
> (GIMRA) wheel profile for 32mm and 45mm gauges while retaining the same
> scale.
> 
> Sam E
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 22:04:54 -0000
> From: "Mike Chaney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [SSLiveSteam] O gauge wheel profile
> To: "Small-scale live steam discussions"
>     <[email protected]>
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>     reply-type=original
> 
> Keith asked:-
> 
> > How did you measure that 3 degree taper?
> 
> I didn't.  I machined it.
> 
> First, I set the compound slide cutting parallel - this took a little
time,
> but I only had to do it once, which when I commissioned the lathe.  Then I
> noted the error on the degree scale, which was 1/4 degree clockwise.  When
> setting the slide, I allow for that error assuming that, the machine being
> British made, the graduations had been engraved accurately.
> 
> After that, it's all down to eyesight and craftsmanship.
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 17:50:25 EST
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [SSLiveSteam] Wheel taper
> To: [email protected]
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> My understanding of wheel taper (And I may be full of B.S., but this is
what
> I have read) is to allow trains to navigate curves without excessive wheel
> slip. As centrifugal force causes the wheel set to move to the outside of
the
> curve the larger diameter of the tread is contacting the rail  on the
larger
> diameter, while the inner wheel is riding on its smaller diameter.  This
> lessens wheel slip and I presume that on 1=1 scale (full size) that
railroads
> set
> minimum curve radius to suit on mainline practice. Look at the  steep
taper on
> a Lionel 027 wheel compared to the slight taper on a fine scale  wheel.
> 
> I have two kinds of wheels on my 3.5 gauge stuff, one set has each wheel
> with a brass bushing so the wheels can rotate independent of what his
brother on
> 
> the other end of the axle is doing. The other sets of wheels each wheel is
> press  fitted on the axle so where "Righty" goes, "Lefty" must follow
along.
> Next time  I am out at the shop will check and see if either, both or
which ever
> 
> has taper  and which don't. I have seen no difference in the wheel sets to
> stay on the  track over my 20' radius curves.
> 
> Of course on a rod driven locomotive the wheels must be secured to each
axle
> to keep the valve gear working properly.
> 
> On my lathe (Sear's Atlas, 12 inch) I have no problem turning the slight 3
> degree taper by setting over the compound to three degrees. Or it could be
done
>  by a file on our small wheels with a template to see where we are in the
> process. The wheels must be made to the same diameter, coned or flat
within as
> close a limit as you can manage so both sides work the same. What I have
done
> and seen recommended is to "rough" turn all your wheels first, then set up
to
>  finish each wheel at the same settings on your cross slide and compound.
> When I  have done cast iron wheels I use a carbide bit to dig under the
cast
> iron
> "skin"  then when all wheels in the set are rough turned leaving a few
thous
> for  finishing change to a HSS tool with the root radius between tread and
> flange  ground in. Then set up a mandrel to take each wheel running true
on its
> axis and  take off the final few thous and put in the taper and touch the
outer
> rim with a  file to just barely round it over. Also use a file to radius
the
> top of the  flange, but I don't think that is too important, but I presume
a
> special ground  tool or jig would do that more evenly.
> -------------- next part --------------
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 18:18:07 -0500
> From: "Keith Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [SSLiveSteam] Wheel taper
> To: "'Small-scale live steam discussions'"
>     <[email protected]>
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"
> 
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:sslivesteam-
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> > My understanding of wheel taper (And I may be full of B.S., but this is
> what
> > I have read) is to allow trains to navigate curves without excessive
wheel
> > slip. As centrifugal force causes the wheel set to move to the outside
of
> the
> > curve the larger diameter of the tread is contacting the rail  on the
> larger
> > diameter, while the inner wheel is riding on its smaller diameter.  This
> > lessens wheel slip and I presume that on 1=1 scale (full size) that
> railroads set
> > minimum curve radius to suit on mainline practice.
> 
> Basically that is true, but the difference in diameter over a 3 degree
taper
> of a wheel a couple inches in diameter is negligible. And, since most
garden
> lines use brass or nickel silver rail, that would wear long before the
wheel
> tread wore! The amount of wheel slip due to now using wheels of constant
> diameter wasn't enough for "real railroads" to bother with coned treads
> anymore. Class 1 roads use a spiral leading into the curve and
> superelevation to eliminate the wheel slip issues.
> 
>  Look at the  steep taper on
> > a Lionel 027 wheel compared to the slight taper on a fine scale  wheel.
> 
> Tinplate is an entirely different application, as they run on tubular
rail,
> not rail of scale profile. The wheel tread is actually the flange on
Lionel
> trains.
> 
> Basically if you want to put a 3 degree taper on the wheels for accuracy
> reasons...fine. But to a beginner building his first steam locomotive
> doesn't need to worry if his wheel are EXACTLY a three degree taper. In
> fact....if he builds his locomotive with parallel wheel treads, it will
run
> and track as well as those with a three degree taper. The reason real
> railroads have eliminated the coned tread of locomotives is traction. The
> contact are is greater when the wheel is contacting the rail across the
> whole tread, where as the cone wheel has a very tiny contact area, which
> gives you a MUCH better chance to slip! For me....I'll take all the
traction
> I can get on my models.
> 
> Keith
> 
> >
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 18:31:50 -0500
> From: "Keith Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [SSLiveSteam] Wheel taper
> To: "'Small-scale live steam discussions'"
>     <[email protected]>
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"
> 
> 
> 
> Fingers got away from me again. I wrote:
> >The reason real railroads have eliminated the coned tread of locomotives
is
> traction. The
> > contact{ are} AREA is greater when the wheel is contacting the rail
across
> the
> > whole tread, where as the cone wheel has a very tiny contact area, which
> > gives you a MUCH better chance to slip! For me....I'll take all the
> traction
> > I can get on my models.
> 
> I wrote ARE, when I meant AREA in the above passage.
> 
> Keith
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 18:30:51 -0800
> From: Jeffrey Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [SSLiveSteam] Dezincification of brass
> To: Live steam list <[email protected]>
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> My "ancient" copy (1961 edition) of the American Society of Metals
> Handbook, Vol 1. describes the dezincification of brass as:
> 
> "Copper-zinc alloys containing more than 15% zinc are susceptible to a
> corrosion process called dezincification.  This type of corrosion does
> not occur in aluminum bronze and cupro-nickel, because they do not
> contain zinc.  The initial attack is followed by a secondary reaction in
> which the copper in the corrosion product is redeposited in a porous,
> friable and weak mass on the metal surface.  Corrosion of a similar
> nature continues beneath the primary deposit of copper, resulting in a
> gradual replacement of sound metal by weakened porous copper.   Action
> of this kind, unless arrested, eventually penetrates the metal,
> weakening it structurally and resulting in leakage of liquids or gasses
> through the porous layer....the dezincification usually occurs when
> brasses are in contact with waters that have high oxygen and carbon
> dioxide content....dezincification is not usually a serious problem
> since red brass, admiralty and aluminum brass containing inhibitors of
> dezincification can be used where this form of corrosion has been
> experienced or is anticipated."
> 
> This indicates that brass with less than 15% zinc isn't a problem in our
> applications in live steam boilers.  McMaster-Carr
> (http://www.mcmaster.com/) lists a number of bronze and brass shapes for
> pretty reasonable prices that could be easily machined and safely used.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 06:41:07 -0700
> From: "Tom Jones" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [SSLiveSteam] O gauge wheel profile - Off List
> To: [email protected]
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
> 
> Sam-
> 
> I did misunderstand your first email.  I am sure that with what you have
> given me I will do just fine!
> 
> Once again thanks!
> 
> -Mitchell
> 
> 
> >From: Sam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: Small-scale live steam discussions
<[email protected]>
> >To: Small-scale live steam discussions <[email protected]>
> >Subject: Re: [SSLiveSteam] O gauge wheel profile
> >Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 21:23:51 +0000
> >
> >Tom Jones wrote:
> >
> >
> > > Thanks for you info.  I will be looking into it right away.  Also, I
am
> >not
> > > sure if I am misunderstanding your reply or not, but I was refering to
> > > 'L.B.S.C' the man.  In one of his design booklets for an O gauge
> >locomotive,
> > > he had his preference for the wheel profile.
> >
> >
> >Tom
> >
> >Yes I know that LBSC was 'Curly' Lawrence, an ex LBSC fireman hence the
> >pseudonym.  His wheel standards are not NECESSARILY  relevant today.  It
> >depends on what track you intend to run on.  Modern Coarse O in UK uses
> >a btb of 28mm with a flange root width of 1.5 mm running on track with a
> >flangeway of 2.2mm.  Technically the flange depth should be 1.5mm but
> >16mm modellers tend to use 2mm as this allows the use of the same
> >(GIMRA) wheel profile for 32mm and 45mm gauges while retaining the same
> >scale.
> >
> >Sam E
> >_______________________________________________
> >SSLiveSteam mailing list
> >Send messages: [email protected]
> >Cancel subscription: http://postfix.45mm.com/mailman/listinfo/sslivesteam
> >Rules: http://www.45mm.com/sslivesteam_guide.html
> >
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Talk now to your Hotmail contacts with Windows Live Messenger.
>
http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwme0020000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://get
.live.co
> m/messenger/overview
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 10
> Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 13:38:04 -0600
> From: "Arthur S. Cohen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [SSLiveSteam] (no subject)
> To: [email protected]
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> There's been discussion about bronze components not standing up to live
ste=
> am.  Let me first tell you that all bronzes and brasses are copper alloys.
=
>  The problem Is the bronze being for brazed on connections are of unknown
c=
> omposition.  The bronze that should be used is an alloy identified as C92
3=
> 00.  It's made up of  88 Cu, 6 Sn, 1.5 pb, and 4.5 zn.  All numbers of
elem=
> ents are %s.  This material is used for high pressure steam connections
and=
>  valves and should work with the low pressures we use.  I imagine the
probl=
> em of why some connection fail while others don't is because the brass or
b=
> ronzes used are not know for their alloy.  They are usually left over
small=
>  pieces of materials of unknown origin.  I have no idea as to where the
cor=
> rect material can be obtained in the States.
> 
> Arthur---Mexico City
> -------------- next part --------------
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 11
> Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 13:38:54 -0600
> From: "Arthur S. Cohen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [SSLiveSteam] Fw:
> To: [email protected]
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- =
> 
> From: Arthur S. Cohen =
> 
> To: [email protected] =
> 
> Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 1:38 PM
> 
> 
> There's been discussion about bronze components not standing up to live
ste=
> am.  Let me first tell you that all bronzes and brasses are copper alloys.
=
>  The problem Is the bronze being for brazed on connections are of unknown
c=
> omposition.  The bronze that should be used is an alloy identified as C92
3=
> 00.  It's made up of  88 Cu, 6 Sn, 1.5 pb, and 4.5 zn.  All numbers of
elem=
> ents are %s.  This material is used for high pressure steam connections
and=
>  valves and should work with the low pressures we use.  I imagine the
probl=
> em of why some connection fail while others don't is because the brass or
b=
> ronzes used are not know for their alloy.  They are usually left over
small=
>  pieces of materials of unknown origin.  I have no idea as to where the
cor=
> rect material can be obtained in the States.
> 
> Arthur---Mexico City
> -------------- next part --------------
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> _______________________________________________
> SSLiveSteam mailing list
> [email protected]
> http://postfix.45mm.com/mailman/listinfo/sslivesteam
> 
> 
> End of SSLiveSteam Digest, Vol 15, Issue 17
> *******************************************
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