Dear Rajan >> I recognise a couple of parts from other devices in there.
>They are standard items from the market. Easy to replace if and when required. Good idea. Many of the best innovations go to great lengths to use standard components! >The grate greatly helps. What is it made of? >The fuel-wood stand is height-adjustable. One of the purposes here is to reduce/regulate the excess air - also encouraging air-flow at the bottom of the stand. It is very likely, looking at het stove, that the excess air is surprisingly high. I understand your point that the primary/secondary air split can be modified by the fuel shelf level (I am glad to see that it is a sheet of steel, not a ladder-type support). However if you were to put a combustion analyser on the gases coming out, I am really sure you would find that the quantity of unneeded air passing through is much more than you need. If you use a couple of damp rags you can experiment with limiting the air entering above and below. At some point, even without instrumentation, it becomes obvious that there is more smoke, not less. That is too little air. A little bit more and you will notice no smoke (or very little) and a much improved time-to-boil. >The opening at the "flame concentrator" ( just below the vessel support ) is also tuned for 2 KW fire-power. It is an off-the-shelf part? >I have been toying with the idea of a drop plate also. But I am worried whether the user will find it convenient. Toy with it and watch the performance. There are various ways to make it convenient. >The pot-skirt is height adjustable ( 20 mm to 90 mm ) for various cooking appliances. Ten different heights are possible - 5 in one direction and another 5 by reversing the pot-skirt. It is a good and simple idea. If it seals at the bottom, it increases draft which can be used to make the air perform tricks. >The stove boils 3 kgs water in 18 minutes using around 200 grams of firewood ( ambient temperature around 33 C ). That is roughly a 25% efficiency. Now I am really sure you have too much air. Try blocking the lower air perhaps 80-90% and the upper air perhaps 75% (air going in with the fuel). Check the temperature of the gases as they emerge between the pot and the stove body. Do not be surprised if the temperature goes up. That does not mean the efficiency went down, not at all. If the airflow is less, the temperature may go up and the efficiency too because the volume of gases at that temp is much lower. Losses are a combination of the two + unburned CO. >The dry weight of the stove is around 7 kgs. That is surprisingly high. What is inside that it weighs so much? >> How much does it cost, say per 100? >This of course, Servals has to say. I feel pricing is moderate. Understood. Thanks Crispin _______________________________________________ Stoves mailing list to Send a Message to the list, use the email address [email protected] to UNSUBSCRIBE or Change your List Settings use the web page http://lists.bioenergylists.org/mailman/listinfo/stoves_lists.bioenergylists.org for more Biomass Cooking Stoves, News and Information see our web site: http://www.bioenergylists.org/
