This may be a bit too red necky, but I'd consider corrugated sheet metal (or 
wrinkly tin as the Kiwis call it)) siding. In quantities of 100- SF or more, 
you can get it painted instead of galvanized at no extra costs. Some of the 
colors available would work well on your house. The corrugations can be 
vertical or horizontal. 

The sheet metal can be cut with a circular saw using a special blade (as well 
as eye protection and full spark awareness). I've used an overlap of two ribs 
without any moisture penetration. Batted insulation in the wall cavity is an 
adequate moisture barrier, but only if the moisture resistant face is in the 
correct orientation. (It'll say the correct orientation on the batting itself.)

If you choose this method, there are a few things you need to know before 
starting. Number one, don't erect the sheets by yourself. It takes one more 
hand to make sure the panels are tight in position and the corrugations snugly 
fit before driving the first screw. That second person will also help prevent 
accidental scratching of the paint. If you're not convinced, I'll show you my 
micro cabin that features gapped seams and scratched. Oh, make sure to carry a 
center punch and hammer -- more often than not you'll need it to make a clean 
start driving a screw into place.

Re-nailing the plywood. Don't use brads or screws (they're too brittle). Use 
10d to 16d nails spaced no farther than 6" along the edges and 12" elsewhere. 
If it's half-inch plywood, start the nail 3/4" from the edge and angle it so it 
bites the middle third of the stud. If there's any doubt, pull the sheet and 
scab a new 2x(_) stud onto the existing, then re-nail the plywood.

Of course, if you go with corrugated metal siding, you won't need the existing 
plywood for shear resistance. You'll be amazed at how much "tighter" your house 
will feel. 

Most large building supply yards keep corrugated metal siding in stock, 
especially if there's an ag community nearby. You want nothing flimsier than 24 
gage. See what they charge per sheet then convert to a SF price. Determine how 
many SF you need and you'll a good estimate for siding your house. With the 
quantity you need, you'll get the color you want and the lengths you need at 
the same or better unit price.

On Feb 2, 2012, at 11:07 AM, richardsan wrote:

> 
> 
> On Thu, Feb 2, 2012 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Johnson <[email protected]> 
> wrote:
> 
> On Feb 2, 2012, at 10:09 AM, richardsan wrote:
> 
> > http://www.flickr.com/photos/richardsan/6807482621/in/photostream
> > the 'craftsmen' from alabama strike again...recall the sewer vent stack 
> > leak from last year...
> 
> oy vey richardsan...this is beginning to sound like a 'nuke it from 
> orbit...that's the only way to be sure' deal. Is that paint or stucco on that 
> siding?
>  paint... the texture put on the boards from the plant. 
> 
> I'm thinking, now that you have all the edges of the boards neatly outlined, 
> it's time for a day or two spent with a driver and a crapload of real nails 
> or screws. Who the fuk decided that brads are ok to use for siding?
>  
> i have no idea...i don't even want to know if it ever WAS inspected at this 
> point.  no GFIs around the sink outlets, no insulation/sheetrock behind the 
> vanity in my bathroom, the sewer waste stack wasn't glued...
> 
> Yer REAL lucky you didn't have a serious storm or alla that would have blown 
> off!
> 
> there was a bad storm, last friday i think. horizontal rain...may have 
> loosened it and it finally gave way after raining yesterday.
> 
> 
> I'm starting to get the feeling that crappy contractors may have left a trail 
> of delayed destruction nearly equal to Katrina herself...
> 
> nicely put..stealing...;  ^) 
> 
> --
> Bruce Johnson
> University of Arizona
> College of Pharmacy
> Information Technology Group
> 
> Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs
> 
> 
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