John, Thad,
I do use "Automotive ClearCoat" most every day. My normal use is
with wood, but I have also done stone (Crab Orchard "Quartzite" counter tops,
bare metal (sandblasted) and even the giant leaves of the Paulownia
tree.
This is a great product. Virtually all new automobiles use the
final ClearCoat as a protective layer over the color 'base-coat" (which is
usually 'flat' i.e. no gloss) against abrasion and UV light. It
contains several UV blockers designed to protect the color of the base coat
against UV degradation.
All the major paint companies offer this product. I use the Nason
brand produced by DuPont. DuPont offers several varieties and they are
for ever coming up with new variations. Nason was a competitor
of DuPont, which they bought several years ago. It is less
expensive than the other DuPont's and works fine ($90/gal. with
activator).
Nason
"SelectClear" Activator
496-00 483-78
This is a two part system - by volume - 4-parts
SelectClear to 1-part
Activator
The mixture is very 'thin' (low viscosity) and mixes easily.
Pot life is several hours - depending on temperature - will cure at even
below freezing temperatures.
I normally spray it - but it can also be applied with a brush, roller or
even by dipping the object.
The low viscosity allows one to use a simple
"gravity Cup-Gun".
After application it cures rapidly - "dust-free" in a few minutes -
"touchable" in 15 minutes - do what you want to in 2 hours.
You can lay it on heavy the first coat (once you figure out what the
"run" point is) and you can add a second (or more) coats
while it is still tacky - like say 10
minutes. Remember - the curing process is not 'evaporation' but instead
'polymerization'.
DuPont also sells an "Adhesion Promoter" #222 - that is sprayed on before
the ClearCoat and allows an even heavier application
without 'running'.
This product is designed to "protect paint' which should work well for
you. I have used it over most every paint you can think of, even the
cheap latex variety.
While I am preaching - let me describe what I think is the ultimate
protective coating - for most anything:
This is really simple.
1) Seal with Epoxy - the best sealer (with
respect to water) known to man. (keeps a lot of boats afloat)
2) Top-Coat with Nason ClearCoat
Job Done !! The epoxy should be
light-sanded (180 grit) before the topcoat. The epoxy is the best sealer
but is sensitive to
UV degradation and is
relatively (can be scratched). The Nason ClearCoat adds the UV
protection and scratch resistance.
my 2 cents worth,
Charlie
----- Original Message -----
Sent: 01 July, 2006 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: Your beautiful painted
dial
Hi Thad:
you asked:
Have you looked into clear spray-on fixatives that would seal and
prolong wear? I've only used the inside "artists" fixatives so I'm not
sure what is out there for outside use.
No, I haven't investigated any spray-on fixatives. But in past
discussions on painted sundials, some people mentioned using a product
called "Clear Coat". Apparently it is used on top of
automobile paint. But I'm scared to use anything like that
without more knowledge about it. Does anybody else have experience
using it I wonder?
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 8:31
PM
Subject: Re: Your beautiful painted
dial
John,
Have you looked into clear spray-on fixatives that would seal and
prolong wear? I've only used the inside "artists" fixitives so I'm
not sure what is out there for outside use.
Repainting is something I always think about when I see detailed work
like yours, what a chore it would be, and how to best prolong it.
Best,
Thad
John Carmichael <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
Hello
Frederick:
You asked:
What type of paints did you use and how
long to you expect them to
last?
Good question! I have always
been a big fan of oil-based enamels for
exterior painting, but after
consulting with several sundial artists in
Europe and the paint guys
at Lowes and Home Depot, they all convinced me to
use high grade
elastomeric acrylic house paint, matte finish. I used a
brand from
Lowes called "American Tradition".
I have no idea how long the
paint will last. I hope it will last a long time
because I pity the
guy who will have to repaint it if ever needs it! This
organic paint
will certainly not last as long as kiln-fired ceramic or
vitreous
glass paints like porcelain.
John
----- Original Message
-----
From: "Frederick Jaggi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "John Carmichael"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 7:00
AM
Subject: Your beautiful painted dial
> Hi
John:
> I enjoyed seeing your new dial. I'm e mailing this
question to you
> directly because I'm not sure how to mail to
the list.
> My question is:
> what type of paints did you
use and how long to you expect them to last.
> I see many
pictures of European painted dials, many of them very old, and
>
I wonder what type of paints they use on, I guess, plaster or
stone.
> Please send any reply to the list as I'm sure others have
the same
> question.
>
> Thanks
> Fred
Jaggi
> Cranston RI
>
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