Danfoss makes a preheater, I believe. www.danfoss.com
Ed B. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Trudy Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <biofuel@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 10:06 AM Subject: Re: [biofuel] Can Biod be replace central heating oil? I read an Oil burner book that describes when using heavier industrial fuel oils, a fuel preheater is needed. It also said to preheat the fuel in the fuel tank with a heat exchanger. This idea is how I'm planning to run my diesel on straight vegetable oil!! Talk to your oil burner repairman concerning the part you need installed. Greg ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "ian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 16:58:27 +0100 ><html><body> ><tt> >A whole 'web page on the subject'<BR> >Thanks very much Todd.<BR> >Ive just done the rounds now from all my local fast food shops, 5 of the 6<BR> >were filled with Glee at the thought that someone would take their waste (i<BR> >was surprised too) saves them a trip to the tip.<BR> >Oh yeh the one that said no - McD.<BR> >I'm going to have to give it a go. Btw, I've had a price on Methanol 100<BR> >litres -£140+vat uk, is that good?<BR> >Thanks all, thanks again Todd :).<BR> ><BR> ><BR> >----- Original Message -----<BR> >From: Appal Energy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]><BR> >To: <biofuel@yahoogroups.com><BR> >Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 3:10 PM<BR> >Subject: Re: [biofuel] Can Biod be replace central heating oil?<BR> ><BR> ><BR> >> > Can Biod be used for Central heating?<BR> >> ................<BR> >><BR> >> Ian,<BR> >><BR> >> Absolutely. You can use biodiesel as a 100% replacement for home heating<BR> >> oil. There are only two principle drawbacks.<BR> >><BR> >> The first is that fuel oil tanks develop serious paraffin and gum buildup<BR> >on<BR> >> their inside walls over time. Introducing bio-d with its superb solvent<BR> >> effects will loosen all this up at an extremely quick pace. This stuff is<BR> >> black, waxy, collects particulates like a magnet, and will clog filters in<BR> >a<BR> >> heartbeat. It can be as thick as an 1/8th inch and cover almost the entire<BR> >> interior surface area of a tank - you're talking a "gallon" or more of<BR> >gunk<BR> >> in a 10 or 15 year old tank.<BR> >><BR> >> You have two options. You can choose just to install a "super filter" and<BR> >> take your chances that a few of these filters will get you through each<BR> >> winter with no major problems. Or you can clean the tank, using moderate<BR> >to<BR> >> high pressure warmed solvent (120-150 degrees Fahrenheit).<BR> >><BR> >> Bio-d is recommended for the thorough cleaning, due to its high flash<BR> >> point - no others if you value your existence. You will need a directional<BR> >> wand and some patience, as only a slow and methodical pattern will give<BR> >you<BR> >> any assurance that the tank is clean.<BR> >><BR> >> You might be able to get away with a hand cranked barrel pump with an<BR> >> extension to pump out the old fuel and the dirty solvent during cleaning.<BR> >> Make sure the extensions are air tight or you may never get a prime. Rinse<BR> >> the tank with several gallons of bio-d several times.<BR> >><BR> >> If you choose to use an existing tank, you will need to install a "super<BR> >> filter," even if the tank is cleaned. There will almost inevitably be some<BR> >> patch of waxes missed with the pressure cleaning.<BR> >><BR> >> Last fall the NBB played up a Maryland dairy farmer using bio-d for heat.<BR> >It<BR> >> was only 5% bio-d, as they didn't wish to contend with any large releases<BR> >of<BR> >> waxes and gums in a brief period of time. Understandable to some degree,<BR> >as<BR> >> it is their livelihood being disrupted should serious problems crop up<BR> >with<BR> >> lines clogging.<BR> >><BR> >> Five percent is better than nothing, but this low of a percent will never<BR> >be<BR> >> sufficient to clean a tank "naturally" in anything but geologic time -<BR> >> especially the uppermost portions which run dry first as fuel is consumed<BR> >> and remain dry until the tank is refilled. I would contend that the home<BR> >> brewer would be better off going the whole route, rather than partial<BR> >> measure.<BR> >><BR> >> The second drawback is ambient temperature and the cloud point of your<BR> >> bio-d. Above ground tanks and lines will "freeze" rapidly, after 30 degree<BR> >> weather sets in. This can happen in but a few hours in the lines and after<BR> >> only a few nights in the tank, leaving you with a very cold problem.<BR> >><BR> >> Even below ground storage can have some of the same problem, depending<BR> >upon<BR> >> whether the tank is below the frost line or not and if any of the lines<BR> >run<BR> >> along the exterior of the building, rather than underground, beneath the<BR> >> frostline, under the building and then up through the floor to the<BR> >furnace.<BR> >><BR> >> In an industrial type building, fuel can be stored inside, eliminating the<BR> >> clouding/freezing problems. This is not as possible in residential<BR> >> dwellings, nor advised.<BR> >><BR> >> If you're going to do this, I would start now, as winter will be here in a<BR> >> bat of an eye.<BR> >><BR> >> Todd<BR> >> Appal Energy<BR> >> [EMAIL PROTECTED]<BR> >><BR> >><BR> >><BR> >> Biofuel at Journey to Forever:<BR> >> <a href="http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html";>http://journeytoforever.org/ biofuel.html</a><BR> >> To unsubscribe, send an email to:<BR> >> [EMAIL PROTECTED]<BR> >><BR> >> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to <a href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/";>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/</ a><BR> >><BR> >><BR> >><BR> ><BR> ></tt> > ><br> > ><!-- |**|begin egp html banner|**| --> > ><table border=0 cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2> ><tr bgcolor=#FFFFCC> ><td align=center><font size="-1" color=#003399><b>Yahoo! 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