Stephen,

I've been "working" on this idea for some time. I acquired a spare Becket
burner that I will continue experimenting with. I have a 115,000 BTU
oil-fired burner ( no water jacket involved) for the household heat. The
motor (not on the burner) for moving the forced hot air around the house is
1725rpm. The nozzle is 1.25 gal /hr.

Regarding your project, The timer you need to delay the wvo/ho mixture is
already built into your system at the variable-heat differential switch
which starts the forced hot air fan. Mine is set at about two minutes, but
can be lengthened. I still need to set up an electric zone-valve for the
switch-over which also will require a separate tank. I think an old
converted 75 gallon water tank just might do the trick, but of course this
would not pass city code inspection. Better off with a standard oil tank,
but depending on the situation of where it's located, it might need

Seems like a separate pump would also be needed. What would be ideal is if
the other side of the shaft on the main electric blower/ fuel pump motor of
the primary burner could turn an auxillary second pump for that extra tank.
Then the only connection between the two two would be that switchable valve.

Another aspect I've been looking at is the amount of heat that gets lost
going up the chimney, but that's another project.

My questions for are:

What is the BTU output of your furnace?
What nozzle size is are you using? You might be able to increase your wvo/ho
ration with a larger nozzle?
What is the source of your WVO and are you prefiltering before adding to the
#2 heating oil?

I took a look at the Babington burner which is basically an open
uncontrolled flame and decided it's not the way I want to go. I feel to much
can go wrong with it. With the forced hot air oil burner, everything is
basically already there.
I'm eager to know how your project is going. Let me know.

Jesse Parris  |  studio53  |  graphics / web design  |  stamford, ct  |
203.324.4371
www.jesseparris.com/Portfolio_Jesse_Parris/
----- Original Message -----
From: "sbosco9" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <biofuel@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2002 10:36 PM
Subject: [biofuel] WVO for heat, preliminary results


> Hello from the newbie on the list
>
> I have been having some success with burning WVO in a traditional oil
> burner.  I at first attempted running it through mixed with an equal
> amount of #2 heating oil (aka diesel fuel)- although the mixture
> seemed to atomize normally, the mist only partially ignited.  Second
> attempt, I mixed one part WVO with two parts #2 oil, this ignited
> almost completely.  I have now logged about one hour of burning this
> mixture, starting from a cold state several times.  The combustion
> makes an oscillating sound for a couple of minutes on startup, along
> with some puffs of blowback through the cracks in the boiler door,
> but it cleans up after the burner has been on for 2-3 minutes.  The
> improvement could be due to the heat which has built up in the
> firebox walls-  at that point the flame is clean white with very
> little smoke.
> After reading some of the things which have been written on this
> subject, I was expecting the WVO to block my nozzle orifice, but,
> (knock on oil can) this hasn't happened yet.
>
>
> I'd like to eliminate the initial dodginess in the flame, and I'd
> also like to increase my ratio of WVO to #2 oil- one way I might be
> able to accomplish this is to start the burner with pure #2 oil then
> switch over to WVO/#2 mix after the firebox is good and hot (following
> the model employed in WVO burning cars).  Preheating the oil also
> occurred to me, but it seems like any preheating I could do safely
> would be pretty modest compared with the firebox heat.
>
> Another idea is to build a babington style burner, which I have begun
> to assemble the parts for.  I suspect that this type of burner will
> suffer from the same problem though- incomplete combustion of the oil
> mist at lower temperatures.  The only babington style burner which I
> have seen in action was affixed to a 4" diameter steel tube about 20"
> long, again, possibly to build up heat quickly and radiate it back
> onto the flame.
>
> Comments welcome.
>
>
> Stephen Bosco
> Arlington, Mass., USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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