Thanks Keith,
Bright Blessings,
Kim

At 04:09 AM 4/15/2004, you wrote:
>Doesn't anyone have an answer for Kim?
>
>Keith
>
> >Okay, I have read what is available in the journeytoforever library on
> >biogas.  My question: Has anyone on this list ever built a biogas
> >digester?  I have no problem finding the material to feed one, but I will
> >admit to be less than confident with the instructions given.
> >
> >Bright Blessings,
> >Kim
> >
> >At 12:47 PM 4/8/2004, you wrote:
> > >Keith,
> > >
> > >I am pleased to see  you joining in on this discussion because I think
> > >this topic is right down you alley.
> > >
> > >I would like to suggest that the biogas energy be recovered in a small,
> > >slow speed, long life diesel generator such as a "Lister Engine" rather
> > >than a steam engine.  Diesel engines deliver about three times the KWHr
> > >per /BTU than steam engines due to higher operating efficiency.  Biogas
> > >needs to be combusted in a diesel engine rather than a gasoline engine
> > >because the diesel has a higher compression ratio (biogas needs about 12 -
> > >14:1 compression ratio for best combustion).  The waste heat from the
> > >water jacket on the Lister engine is more than sufficient to maintain
> > >thermophilic temperatures of the biogas reactor and you still have the
> > >heat from the engine exhaust for other higher energy uses as well.  About
> > >25% of the biogas energy will be recovered as electricity and the
> > >remainder as heat energy at various temperatures.
> > >
> > >It is important to look at the monthly and seasonal energy consumption
> > >profile to determine how much energy should be recovered in each form
> > >(summer vs winter usages).  Do you need 5 KWHr per day as electricity and
> > >50,000 BTU's as space heat and 6,000 BTU's for cooking gas  and 30,000
> > >BTU's for hot water, etc.  Then you can lay out the size of each the
> > >components necessary to convert the biogas into the appropriate form of
> > >energy.  Perhaps some of the biogas will bypass the diesel engine and be
> > >fed directly into a water heater burner because your needs are for greater
> > >amounts of hot water for example.
> > >
> > >One of the nice features is that the biogas system produces energy fairly
> > >uniformly 24 hours per day.  So with a small amount of batteries and
> > >insulated tanks, you can easily handle typical surges in demand
> >during the day.
> > >
> > >Of, course it also helps if you have a way to continuously supply the
> > >wastes needed to feed the biogas reactor.  Having a herd of pigs, cows or
> > >horses helps alot.  You might find yourself supply limited and need to
> > >import other wastes such as grass clippings or grain wastes or food
> > >wastes, etc to make up for a feedstock supply deficiency.
> > >
> > >One thing is certain - ALL of these efforts should be made to maximize the
> > >return of organic matter to soil as a mature soil amendment.  Then the
> > >discussions about sustainability can begin.
> > >
> > >Art Krenzel
> > >
> > >
> > >   ----- Original Message -----
> > >   From: Keith Addison
> > >   To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
> > >   Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 10:01 AM
> > >   Subject: Re: [biofuel] Rejoining list with a question
> > >
> > >
> > >   Hi Kim
> > >
> > >   Good to see you back.
> > >
> > >   >Keith, I told you I would be back <grin>
> > >
> > >   I thought it was going to be a year or two, glad you made it sooner.
> > >
> > >   >Greetings,
> > >   >
> > >   >I was a member of this list for several years, but quit to have 
> time to
> > >   >learn other things.  I hope all the regulars are doing well,
> >and I hope to
> > >   >get to know all the new people.
> > >   >
> > >   >My husband and I own 20 acres in Texas and we are trying to
> >live and farm
> > >   >sustainably.  For now we are on the grid, but hope to change that one
> > >   >day.  We practise alternative building, such as paper adobe
> >and cordwood.
> > >   >
> > >   >The question:  This months issue of Backwoods Home Magazine has an
> > > article,
> > >   >by Rev. J.D. Hooker, on burning manure.  It states that they
> >get 'somewhat
> > >   >greater heating value than seasoned hardwood.'    By using the ashes
> > > in the
> > >   >garden, after several years of application have reach a rate
> >of 'more than
> > >   >40% higher' than the garden with either commercial fertilizer or 
> spread
> > >   >manure.
> > >
> > >   What was higher? Yields? You'd want other indicators than that.
> > >
> > >   Spreading manure is generally not a good technique. (But letting the
> > >   livestock do the spreading can be a very good technique.)
> > >
> > >   >He did not compare it to composted manure, so much testing of his
> > >   >'findings' still needs to be done.
> > >
> > >   Yes.
> > >
> > >   >If one can get both heat and fertilizer
> > >   >out of manure,
> > >
> > >   You need to distinguish between "fertilizer" and "nutrients".
> > >
> > >   >then one could use the manure to fire a wood fuel steam
> > >   >generator and be totally sustainable.
> > >   >
> > >   >The author states he got the idea from a friend from Thailand.
> >There are
> > >   >no flaws mentioned in the article, and the article is only
> >about heat and
> > >   >the garden.  The steam generator is my idea.  This seems to easy 
> and too
> > >   >perfect, what is the flaw that I have missed?
> > >
> > >   As Art said, no organic matter. Ash just leaves the minerals and will
> > >   provide nutrients but not soil fertility - it could even harm soil
> > >   fertility. The effect of such treatments depends very much on what
> > >   condition the soil is in to start with. Too much ash on low-O/M
> > >   acidic soils will make matters worse, not better (eg hardpan), and
> > >   not very much might be too much. There's no substitute for humus
> > >   maintenance, and ash can't do that.
> > >
> > >   Howard developed the Indore compost process in India partly to
> > >   address a shortage of manure caused by its use for cooking fires.
> > >   Composting extended the manure supplies by five times, so there would
> > >   be enough for both the fires and the soil. Weight for weight, compost
> > >   turned out to be much more effective than pure manure, so the effect
> > >   was better than five times. It can be extended even further by adding
> > >   compost made without any manure, from water hyacinth for instance.
> > >   Note "adding" though - for long-term fertility maintenance at least
> > >   some organic matter has to pass through an animal gut on its way back
> > >   to the soil, preferably via more than one species of animal. It's
> > >   also a much better idea to add any ash to the compost rather than to
> > >   the soil.
> > >
> > >   Art's suggestion of anaerobic digestion for methane production for
> > >   heating is one way, but, as he said, the sludge must then be
> > >   aerobically composted (hot) before applying it to the soil. Generally
> > >   that requires added "browns" (dry, carbonaceous stuff) to correct the
> > >   moisture content and allow sufficient aeration; easiest to use it as
> > >   one component in an ongoing aerobic composting operation. Aerobic
> > >   composting also produces heat of course, which is usually wasted. We
> > >   always have at least one compost pile here that's at 70-75 deg C
> > >   (160-170 deg F). One way to use the heat is via a heat exchanger to
> > >   maintain optimum temperatures in the anaerobic digesters. We've done
> > >   some preliminary work on harnessing composting heat, we'll take it
> > >   further as soon as we have the chance. There's the makings of a good
> > >   integrated system in this, fits in well with rational use of 20 acres
> > >   (or less).
> > >
> > >   Best
> > >
> > >   Keith
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >   >Bright Blessings,
> > >   >Kim
> > >   >
> > >   >Keith, I told you I would be back <grin>
>
>
>
>Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
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